Rear Brake line broken

[BrianD]

I blew arear brake line last nite - do I need Genuine Nissan parts to fix it or can I do it myself?

I haven't crawled under it yet today but it's leaking at the rear cluster point where the lines split to go to both rear wheels - anybody dun this B4?

Also goin to get my new lower rad support - any tips on this install wud B helpful too.

Thanx - Brian

[sewebster]

Brakes are pretty simple and standardized, so you shouldn't have any problems using aftermarket parts. You could of course do it yourself with oem parts you got from the dealer if you wanted...

[Alkorahil]

By 'cluster' are you talking about the load bearing sensor? Are these the metal piping that are leaking?

If so you will probably have to go to a dealer for those parts. If you are looking at any of the ones I am thinkg you are describing they are only list price of $32 so they are not expensive, but replacing them you will need to repalce the brake fluid as well and bleed the brakes.

 

Also, check all the lines very carefully with a flashlight and pull the rear wheels. The fluid can be comeing from somewhere else and then bleeding down the pipe and collecting, so teh real leak can be further up the line, so to speak.

[sewebster]

Yeah, Alkorahil is right, if you have a load sensing proportioning valve you probably need to get one from the dealer! But from your description I'm not sure if this is what you are talking about.

[adamzan]

If it is leaking from a metal line you can actually go to partsource and get a section of brake line and bend it roughly into the shape of the original. I went this route because the dealer didn't have any in stock but I was in a rush. If I were to do it again I would go with oem because frankly it just looks neater.

 

For a flex hose I'm pretty sure you can get those anywhere like partsource, CT, NAPA, CarQuest, and Benson auto parts.

[sewebster]

Will the dealer actually give you a pre-bent section of brake line?

[adamzan]

Yup, I actually bought a set of rear hardline with the intention of replacing my custom ones. They came perfectly pre bent so it fits like a glove.

[sewebster]

Yup, I actually bought a set of rear hardline with the intention of replacing my custom ones. They came perfectly pre bent so it fits like a glove.

 

Wow, impressive. I will definitely consider that when the time comes.

[BrianD]

Brakes are pretty simple and standardized, so you shouldn't have any problems using aftermarket parts. You could of course do it yourself with oem parts you got from the dealer if you wanted...

Thanx bud - after looking at the cluster *my "vocabulary" is so small* under there I called the local dealer and ordered the only part they had ..which turned out to be the rite one. The other rusted lines that I am going to replace are back ordered so I got sum stuff from the PArts Source and I'll try my hand at it - mechanics are too expensive - I only paid $500 for it so this is to be expected

[BrianD]

By 'cluster' are you talking about the load bearing sensor? Are these the metal piping that are leaking?

If so you will probably have to go to a dealer for those parts. If you are looking at any of the ones I am thinkg you are describing they are only list price of $32 so they are not expensive, but replacing them you will need to repalce the brake fluid as well and bleed the brakes.

 

Also, check all the lines very carefully with a flashlight and pull the rear wheels. The fluid can be comeing from somewhere else and then bleeding down the pipe and collecting, so teh real leak can be further up the line, so to speak.

Load bearing sensor? That thing with the big spring on it? Is that what that thing is? Yeah the metal line on the top left in the photo is leaking - the nutz seem like they are welded in there - had to put the tools away cause we got a storm but I am ready to apply heat to the nuts to help with loosening - is that what U wud do?

The nutz are so rusted that the 10mm wrench doesn't fit tight anymore and I'm afraid to round it off with force alone.

Thanx for yer input - any more advice is very welcome.

[BrianD]

Yeah, Alkorahil is right, if you have a load sensing proportioning valve you probably need to get one from the dealer! But from your description I'm not sure if this is what you are talking about.

Thanx - I had a wife lightly step on the brakes while I was under neath and found the leak - see the picture above - lux like I got about 3 to replace.

Pls read the response above - any advice on getting these nutz loose in such a confined space is pretty tough - will heat help me with this? I do not have acetylene - just a propane torch.

thanx again

[BrianD]

If it is leaking from a metal line you can actually go to partsource and get a section of brake line and bend it roughly into the shape of the original. I went this route because the dealer didn't have any in stock but I was in a rush. If I were to do it again I would go with oem because frankly it just looks neater.

 

For a flex hose I'm pretty sure you can get those anywhere like partsource, CT, NAPA, CarQuest, and Benson auto parts.

I did get the parts from Parts Source and they lent me the flarging tool kit as well. Will heat loosen these nutz for me?

Any input is welcome. Thanx!

[BrianD]

Will the dealer actually give you a pre-bent section of brake line?

Yes - they had only one which came over nite - $20 -

[BrianD]

Wow, impressive. I will definitely consider that when the time comes.

The Tsunami has lots of stuff back ordered so don't expect to get them if U R in a hurry.

[BrianD]

Yeah, Alkorahil is right, if you have a load sensing proportioning valve you probably need to get one from the dealer! But from your description I'm not sure if this is what you are talking about.

Thanx - pls read above.

[sewebster]

I'm not really familiar with the R50, so I can't tell exactly what I'm looking at in the pic, but if you are replacing everything, you don't necessarily need to get the nuts loose? Just cut out some of them... but if they are going into a part you are keeping then yeah, you have to get them out. Heat might work, but I don't recall if I've ever used heat on a brake system before... not sure what would happen with the brake fluid...

 

Maybe try to cut the piece you are working on out and attack it on the workbench, could be easier, but you might have to replace more lines...

Edited September 3, 2011 by sewebster

[adamzan]

Mine rounded off too. I just clamped vice grips on there really tight and then they broke loose.

[Cuong Nguyen]

I ended up cutting my lines and using vice grips to remove them because they ended up rounding up with the wrench. Make sure you clean up the brake fluid spill because it will eat up paint and oxidize anything metal.

[Alkorahil]

Will the dealer actually give you a pre-bent section of brake line?

 

 

Yes and they are not very expensive for something that fits perfectly and is pre-shaped, front/back whichever. Usually around $30. Same for fuel lines if you ever get into those.

[Alkorahil]

Sewebster, Adamzan and Chong Nguyen all bring up good points to follow.

 

Try a very generous helping of a product called PB Blaster. You can get it at any auto parts chain store.

Spray the nuts with this product, let it soak in, repeat. Do this several times. It will help break up the rust around the nuts but it sure does look to me from the picture that they will not cooperate easily. you can also try taking a flat blade screwdriver and see if some of the rust you can just scrape off around the nuts.

Try the vice grips to get them off if you can. They will round easily so be patient with them. If you are replacing the whole section then cut them as mentioned above and get them off with a help of a vice to hold the part they are attached to.

[BrianD]

Yes and they are not very expensive for something that fits perfectly and is pre-shaped, front/back whichever. Usually around $30. Same for fuel lines if you ever get into those.

I tried ording other rear brake lines - they do not have them anymore - U'll have 2 maake yer own.