2001 Pathfinder Swirl Control Problem

Sir_Belamy · June 8, 2011

I appolozige for copying/pasting content that I also had posted on the forums.nicoclub.com forum but I am tired and desperate for help which is why I joined this forum reading other posts from knowledgeable NPORA forum members.

It seems that my swirl control valve actual does not automatically open when my 2001 Pathfinder (A/T) reaches for than 3600 RPM like it is supposed to.

I started by lubricating and freeing the actuator itself after reading other people with a similar issue and I can manually move the actualtor freely to the open and closed position with no significant resistance which I am not sure it is supposed to do. I am not sure if there is a spring that is supposed to hold it in the open position. The FSM provides no detail on this.

I applied direct power to the solenoid itself and the actuator does shut from the open position but what is it that makes it open? What is making it stay shut?

The other thing is that after I manully lift the actuator in the open position the vehicle does not always shut it and it maintains its power. But then sometimes it goes shut.

I can not seem to figure this out and I really could use some help on where to go next with this besides the dealership.

Thanks in advance!

Slartibartfast · June 8, 2011

Take the following with a grain of salt, as I didn't even know what a swirl valve was until today.

According to this http://forums.nicoclub.com/swirl-valve-control-solenoid-p1130-t339097.html, a little crud in the vacuum line keeps the actuator from working right, and generates an error code. Clean the hose, and, apparently, problem solved.

I'd expect a solenoid to have a return spring, but it may rely on vacuum, airflow, or something else for this.

Hopefully it's just your vac line, as these are apparently a PITA to get except from the dealer, and they'll charge you just to open the hood.

Hope that helps, gotta love Google.

Edited June 8, 2011 by Slartibartfast

Sir_Belamy · June 8, 2011

Take the following with a grain of salt, as I didn't even know what a swirl valve was until today.

According to this http://forums.nicoclub.com/swirl-valve-control-solenoid-p1130-t339097.html, a little crud in the vacuum line keeps the actuator from working right, and generates an error code. Clean the hose, and, apparently, problem solved.

I'd expect a solenoid to have a return spring, but it may rely on vacuum, airflow, or something else for this.

Hopefully it's just your vac line, as these are apparently a PITA to get except from the dealer, and they'll charge you just to open the hood.

Hope that helps, gotta love Google.

I checked all lines going in an out of the solenoid and to the check switch. I also ran power to the solenoid and I am getting vaccum . Unless there is a line that I am not aware of I don't think this is the problem. I am getting no codes whatsoever.

I am hoping someone here has the know how on what exactly triggers the actuator to go into the open position above 3600 RPM or at a certain operating temp. I don't know if I have an ECM problem or what to do next.\

Thanks

fleurys · June 8, 2011

You probably have one of the worse issue to troubleshoot on the 2001 pathy. According to what I read in the fsm, The swirl valve selenoid signal is dependant on many other ecu signals. They are the folowing:

Throttle position sensor

Crankshaft Position sensor (pos)

Crankshaft Position sensor (ref_

Mass ais flow

and engine coolant temperature

Now if all those signals are at a specific settings, the ecu will STOP sending power to the selenoid and therefore the swirl valve will be opened.

What I understand is that by default, when the valve is closed, this means power is applied to the selenoid. When on the other hand, for example, the engine temp is higher than 55C and the car is not idle, and the rpm is higher than 3600 (AT) etc.., then the ecu will cut the power to the selenoid, therefore opening the valve.

Since you do not have code, I'M thinking that you might have something defective within the sensors needed that would not raise a code if defective... Therefore I'm leaning towards your coolant temp sensor...

Get the fsm, and follow the procedure to troubleshoot a P1130 code in the ECU section (page 452). You will have all the rundown to test all sub-sensors that are necessary for your swirl valve selenoid to receive the ecu signal to be switched to OFF (therefore having the swirl valve opened)

Hope this helps a bit.

S.

Sir_Belamy · June 8, 2011

So you're telling me that the $15.00 worth of SeamFoam Deep Creep I just sprayed on my actuator will likely be fruitless.

Your post does help and that is what I was afraid of....no signal from ECM. I guess back to the drawing board.

How difficult would you say it is to troubleshoot sensors? Do you think, I should just give in to the dealer?????

Sir_Belamy · June 9, 2011

W'ell before I investigate my coolant sensor, does anyone know if infrequent engine coolant changes can have an effect on the sensor reading? I can't remember the last time mine was changed. It is at the req'd level but is no longer green....Maybe I should go do that first. :blond:

After applying the pentrating oil. I left the actutator in the up position upon initial start up. I am just wondering why it does not then shut automatically upon start-up as it the temp and RPM should have activated the swirl solenoid?

Also after applying the pentrating oil the actuator seemed to have a little more :bounce: . and when the swirl is opened the vehicle hauls major.....can I just disconnect the darn solenoid?????

Alkorahil · June 9, 2011

Being a 2001 model I would replace the engine coolant sensor anyways and with summer coming on a flush and refill of the coolant is not a bad idea either especially if you cant recall when it was last done.

The temp sensor sends signal to the ECU so it can adjust fuel, air, emissions and so forth in the engine.

It is an easy to replace and inexpensive part (MSRP $35) I tell my customers to replace every 60K miles, especially down here with our hot summers.

Sir_Belamy · June 9, 2011

I will do that next and see how it goes. Thanks again for all of your help.

Sir_Belamy · June 10, 2011

Ummm, I think I found the ETCS Harness Connector. Just to be sure, I uplugged and got a P0115 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Code. The harness seems to go to the back of the Engine in to never never land, Is the temp sensor at the end of this thing at the back of the engine???? The harness seems to go to the back of the Engine into never never land.

What part of ealsy to replace might I be missing? It would seem that something significant needs to be removed. Am I way off the mark on finding this thing? Or can I replace without dismantaling engine/intake components.

Thanks

Sir_Belamy · June 11, 2011

W'ell I just got lucky because I seem to have it working. Just praying that it continues to work. I really can't confirm what the problem was but I will share my experience and info might be helpful to anyone else.

1. Cleaned MAF - No results

2. Replaced Fuel Filter - No Results

3. Found this: http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/pathfinder/2668-my-pathfinder-has-mechanical-issue-has-baffled-two-dealers-any-experts-here-3.html

4. Took engine cover off, found the hole where you could see the actuator at the front top part of the engine to the immediate left of the swirl control valve solenoid, it was pretty rusted and was not moving freely. I lubricaled with WD-40 and used about a 7 inch punch tool with a blunt end to move the actuator up and down until free. I left in in the up position and took it for a boot. I felt like I was re-united but unfortunately it did not last and it was sticking in the closed position.

5. More Lube. This time Silicon Lube. Pretty free. Still would not open.

6. Read alot of posts about blocked vacuum. I disconnected and blew out just about every hose, no significant blockages found. I even cut off some ends re-connected where there was cracking. Sore fingers. Test drive. No Good.

7. Tested Swirl Control Valve and CheckSwitch as per fsm but they checked o.k. and I was not getting any codes.

8. Read another post suggesting using some penetrating oil. Bought a can of Seafoam Deep Creep (snake oil???) and re-sprayed the actuator.

9. Looking for the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor based on the helpful post from Fleury's. Could not see the sensor but I located the harness on the left rear side of the engine close to the firewall. Disconnected the sensor and started the vehicle to confirm the right location. It was her but all I could do without taking apart the engine was disconnect and clean the contacts with Electrical Cleaner. Success!

Either it was the 1/2 can of deep creep sprayed onto the actuator that finally did the trick or it was when I monkey'd around with the ETCS Harness Connector. The other possibility is that someone up above just plain had pitty on me and my mechanical ability.

What I know now is that the swirl valve closes upon cold engine re-start which makes sense because the engine temp is low and therfore the ECU sends the signal. I also know that the swirl valve stays open upon engine shutdown and also again upon startup if a high engine temp is maintained resulting in no signal being sent by the ECU. This is one reason why it was difficult to understand what the heck was going on.

I realize this is not a techical post. I just hope that this helps give someone else a few things to try if they are having the same problem.

Still plan on changing the temp sensor as per the previous recommendation and when I can find a way to access the darn thing.

Thanks for the help.

Sir_Belamy · June 11, 2011