Sir_Belamy

Thanks but not sure I could really pin point the problem, just know what actions ended up finally doing the trick for this particular Pathy. Either it was finding the correct lube, or figgitting around a little bit everywhere.....kind of aikin to figuring out how to get her motor running if you know what I mean.

W'ell I just got lucky because I seem to have it working. Just praying that it continues to work. I really can't confirm what the problem was but I will share my experience and info might be helpful to anyone else. 1. Cleaned MAF - No results 2. Replaced Fuel Filter - No Results 3. Found this: http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/pathfinder/2668-my-pathfinder-has-mechanical-issue-has-baffled-two-dealers-any-experts-here-3.html 4. Took engine cover off, found the hole where you could see the actuator at the front top part of the engine to the immediate left of the swirl control valve solenoid, it was pretty rusted and was not moving freely. I lubricaled with WD-40 and used about a 7 inch punch tool with a blunt end to move the actuator up and down until free. I left in in the up position and took it for a boot. I felt like I was re-united but unfortunately it did not last and it was sticking in the closed position. 5. More Lube. This time Silicon Lube. Pretty free. Still would not open. 6. Read alot of posts about blocked vacuum. I disconnected and blew out just about every hose, no significant blockages found. I even cut off some ends re-connected where there was cracking. Sore fingers. Test drive. No Good. 7. Tested Swirl Control Valve and CheckSwitch as per fsm but they checked o.k. and I was not getting any codes. 8. Read another post suggesting using some penetrating oil. Bought a can of Seafoam Deep Creep (snake oil???) and re-sprayed the actuator. 9. Looking for the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor based on the helpful post from Fleury's. Could not see the sensor but I located the harness on the left rear side of the engine close to the firewall. Disconnected the sensor and started the vehicle to confirm the right location. It was her but all I could do without taking apart the engine was disconnect and clean the contacts with Electrical Cleaner. Success! Either it was the 1/2 can of deep creep sprayed onto the actuator that finally did the trick or it was when I monkey'd around with the ETCS Harness Connector. The other possibility is that someone up above just plain had pitty on me and my mechanical ability. What I know now is that the swirl valve closes upon cold engine re-start which makes sense because the engine temp is low and therfore the ECU sends the signal. I also know that the swirl valve stays open upon engine shutdown and also again upon startup if a high engine temp is maintained resulting in no signal being sent by the ECU. This is one reason why it was difficult to understand what the heck was going on. I realize this is not a techical post. I just hope that this helps give someone else a few things to try if they are having the same problem. Still plan on changing the temp sensor as per the previous recommendation and when I can find a way to access the darn thing. Thanks for the help.

W'ell I just got lucky because I seem to have it working. Just praying that it continues to work. I really can't confirm what the problem was but I will share my experience and info might be helpful to anyone else. 1. Cleaned MAF - No results 2. Replaced Fuel Filter - No Results 3. Found this: http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/pathfinder/2668-my-pathfinder-has-mechanical-issue-has-baffled-two-dealers-any-experts-here-3.html 4. Took engine cover off, found the hole where you could see the actuator at the front top part of the engine to the immediate left of the swirl control valve solenoid, it was pretty rusted and was not moving freely. I lubricaled with WD-40 and used about a 7 inch punch tool with a blunt end to move the actuator up and down until free. I left in in the up position and took it for a boot. I felt like I was re-united but unfortunately it did not last and it was sticking in the closed position. 5. More Lube. This time Silicon Lube. Pretty free. Still would not open. 6. Read alot of posts about blocked vacuum. I disconnected and blew out just about every hose, no significant blockages found. I even cut off some ends re-connected where there was cracking. Sore fingers. Test drive. No Good. 7. Tested Swirl Control Valve and CheckSwitch as per fsm but they checked o.k. and I was not getting any codes. 8. Read another post suggesting using some penetrating oil. Bought a can of Seafoam Deep Creep (snake oil???) and re-sprayed the actuator. 9. Looking for the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor based on the helpful post from Fleury's. Could not see the sensor but I located the harness on the left rear side of the engine close to the firewall. Disconnected the sensor and started the vehicle to confirm the right location. It was her but all I could do without taking apart the engine was disconnect and clean the contacts with Electrical Cleaner. Success! Either it was the 1/2 can of deep creep sprayed onto the actuator that finally did the trick or it was when I monkey'd around with the ETCS Harness Connector. The other possibility is that someone up above just plain had pitty on me and my mechanical ability. What I know now is that the swirl valve closes upon cold engine re-start which makes sense because the engine temp is low and therfore the ECU sends the signal. I also know that the swirl valve stays open upon engine shutdown and also again upon startup if a high engine temp is maintained resulting in no signal being sent by the ECU. This is one reason why it was difficult to understand what the heck was going on. I realize this is not a techical post. I just hope that this helps give someone else a few things to try if they are having the same problem. Still plan on changing the temp sensor as per the previous recommendation and when I can find a way to access the darn thing. Thanks for the help.

Ummm, I think I found the ETCS Harness Connector. Just to be sure, I uplugged and got a P0115 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Code. The harness seems to go to the back of the Engine in to never never land, Is the temp sensor at the end of this thing at the back of the engine???? The harness seems to go to the back of the Engine into never never land. What part of ealsy to replace might I be missing? It would seem that something significant needs to be removed. Am I way off the mark on finding this thing? Or can I replace without dismantaling engine/intake components. Thanks

I will do that next and see how it goes. Thanks again for all of your help.

W'ell before I investigate my coolant sensor, does anyone know if infrequent engine coolant changes can have an effect on the sensor reading? I can't remember the last time mine was changed. It is at the req'd level but is no longer green....Maybe I should go do that first. After applying the pentrating oil. I left the actutator in the up position upon initial start up. I am just wondering why it does not then shut automatically upon start-up as it the temp and RPM should have activated the swirl solenoid? Also after applying the pentrating oil the actuator seemed to have a little more . and when the swirl is opened the vehicle hauls major.....can I just disconnect the darn solenoid?????

So you're telling me that the $15.00 worth of SeamFoam Deep Creep I just sprayed on my actuator will likely be fruitless. Your post does help and that is what I was afraid of....no signal from ECM. I guess back to the drawing board. How difficult would you say it is to troubleshoot sensors? Do you think, I should just give in to the dealer?????

I checked all lines going in an out of the solenoid and to the check switch. I also ran power to the solenoid and I am getting vaccum . Unless there is a line that I am not aware of I don't think this is the problem. I am getting no codes whatsoever. I am hoping someone here has the know how on what exactly triggers the actuator to go into the open position above 3600 RPM or at a certain operating temp. I don't know if I have an ECM problem or what to do next.\ Thanks

I appolozige for copying/pasting content that I also had posted on the forums.nicoclub.com forum but I am tired and desperate for help which is why I joined this forum reading other posts from knowledgeable NPORA forum members. It seems that my swirl control valve actual does not automatically open when my 2001 Pathfinder (A/T) reaches for than 3600 RPM like it is supposed to. I started by lubricating and freeing the actuator itself after reading other people with a similar issue and I can manually move the actualtor freely to the open and closed position with no significant resistance which I am not sure it is supposed to do. I am not sure if there is a spring that is supposed to hold it in the open position. The FSM provides no detail on this. I applied direct power to the solenoid itself and the actuator does shut from the open position but what is it that makes it open? What is making it stay shut? The other thing is that after I manully lift the actuator in the open position the vehicle does not always shut it and it maintains its power. But then sometimes it goes shut. I can not seem to figure this out and I really could use some help on where to go next with this besides the dealership. Thanks in advance!