adamzan Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Considering this isn't the first time your RMS is leaking maybe it would be good if they used an aftermarket seal, which, in my opinion would be just as good as oem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 (edited) Considering this isn't the first time your RMS is leaking maybe it would be good if they used an aftermarket seal, which, in my opinion would be just as good as oem. Well, maybe, I don't really know... isn't a seal a seal, pretty much? If it leaks again at like what, 250k, I think that's okay and at that point the whole vehicle doesn't owe me anything anyway, wouldn't you think? Or am I wrong in my assumptions? I really don't know the entire service history of this vehicle even though it's a family car and was leased new. Maybe some oil changes were accidentally skipped and caused issues, potentially causing the leak to spring again (I know the VQ35DE is hard on oil). I dunno. I think I'll definitely swap out the PCV valve in the coming weeks too, even though it's a PITA to get to. Edited September 15, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 I mean, I would certainly be checking the mating surface wherever it is leaking (either the crankshaft or the seal housing thing)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Yeah well, how am I supposed to do that, be there for however long they're working to watch them like a hawk? I'd hope they would tell me if a mating surface is bad, although I wouldn't be sure how to proceed if it is damaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 (edited) No, just make sure you tell them to do it. Ideally there is no problem, or if there is some small nick or something hopefully they can buff it out or something. Edited September 15, 2011 by sewebster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 I would tell them that it isn't the first time that it has leaked, and to check the shaft for any damage. There are repair sleeves you can buy that just slide on to give you a new, smooth surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Very well. I shall do that, thanks for pointing that out. So basically, I should inform them to use the coolant provided on the passenger seat, that portions of the FSM are on the seat if required, that this is the second time the RMS is leaking, and to examine the mating surfaces for damage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Yup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Yup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 So I called AAMCO and they said they shouldn't need to replace the coolant. I told them that this is the second RMS leak, and they'll examine the mating surfaces. I'll be dropping the PF off at AAMCO tomorrow at 9 AM. I got the ST filter, gotta spin it on tomorrow morning before leaving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 (edited) I just had the rear main seal replaced by AAMCO for $1,169.30. This seal was in use for 126,106 miles exactly. This is the second RMS that has been in my Pathfinder. The first was replaced at 1,720 miles by a Nissan dealership under warranty. This seal then leaked somewhere between 90k and 105k miles. Pictures of the damaged side of the seal: And the undamaged side: It is obvious that no high-mileage or thicker oil would have ever stopped this seal from leaking. Slow it? Quite a possibility, but who knows. AAMCO claimed to have found no defects on the mating surfaces of the seal, but they did find two missing bolts on the bellhousing and replaced those free of charge. The seal was replaced with a Fel-Pro BS 40631. I have read that Fel-Pro makes high quality gaskets/seals and try their best to remove OE defects and try to improve the design. I did not see this seal, but if I were really curious I could purchase one for $35, photograph it, post pictures here, and then return the seal. The job took about 6 hours to complete, but the shop kept the PF overnight to ensure there were no issues. I certainly hope this third RMS will not leak for another 100k at least. The shop did not lose any fluids other than a very small amount of automatic transmission fluid when disconnecting the transmission cooler lines. I retained my engine oil and filter (as they were recently changed within the past 2000 miles) and all engine coolant. The work seems to be satisfactorily performed, and I am happy with the shop. I have a 90-day warranty on parts and labor. I'll likely be a return customer if the need arises. I will check tomorrow to ensure there are no more oil drips around the bellhousing. Edited September 18, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Here is rock autos pic of the FEL-PRO RMS for the 2001 pathfinder Sorry, it won't let me post the picture. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=446598 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 The mofo's still leaking, so unless it magically stops by Monday, I'll be taking it back to AAMCO in the morning. On Saturday I'll change the PCV valve (4 hours of work + $69 cost in the valve, its grommet, and 4 gaskets). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 How can a PCV valve cost $69? Isn't that insane? I thought they were like $5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 PCV valve was $13 or something, I need to replace 4 gaskets and the grommet that goes around the PCV valve. Somebody buried the PCV valve under the upper and lower intake manifolds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 Ah, sorry, I misread that it was $69 for just the valve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 (edited) Well, shit. It was still leaking out the weep hole. I dropped it off at AAMCO and they replaced the RMS again with a Nissan part this time, and they also concluded that my aluminum oil pan gasket is leaking so that's another $448 + tax down the drain to replace - they're using an OEM gasket for that too. I'll be picking it up again tomorrow. Edited September 26, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 I guess it's kinda good you didn't do it yourself... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 I will be picking up the Pathfinder tomorrow. I dropped by earlier today and they replaced the front & rear oil pan lip seals and RMS again with Nissan OEM parts, they're keeping it overnight to ensure no leaks. They said the bottom of my engine was spotless, which is nice to know. I got one of the old lip seals and will post pictures of it soon. They lost about a quart of coolant during the process and will top it off with universal, but it's such a small amount I'm not gonna worry about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 I threw away that lip seal. Oops. Anyway, it's still weeping a tiny bit at the weep hole, but after all this work I'd expect it to be &^%*ing spotless. I wiped it off several times and it came back in short order. I think I'll ask AAMCO to put some dye in the oil to see where the hell it's coming from. Also, they overtightened the oil filter, and tightened one of the transmission cooler hose clamps so much that the rubber started chafing into the holes of the clamp (hose clamp looks like this). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 Turns out the weeping was just trans fluid. I spoke with one of the mechanics who worked on my car and he said he overfilled the trans accidentally (he thought more got lost than what really was) and it puked some fluid out on the first test drive. The weeping is almost gone now and it does appear to have a red tinge to it, so it's probably just residual trans fluid in the bellhousing working its way out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnm Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 I'd fix it, unless there is something else wrong with the truck and this is the "last straw" to a trade in decision. As a side note. Blended oils that have a viscosity range may differ from brand to brand and type to type. This is a result of the blend of oil and additives to give a particular viscosity "curve" over the desired temperature range and is usually a proprietary formula. Pick up 2 random bottles of engine oil and you are very likely to see a viscosity difference between them at room temperature. That one is "thicker" doesn't necessarily make it "better". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 Does that mean you have a bad seal on your transmission? How can the fluid get into the bell housing? (I'm not familiar with the auto trans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 Well, the pipe/hose that the excess fluid spits out from is right above the bell housing. The mechanic said that it spit fluid all over the bell housing and he was a bit annoyed because he just cleaned it off real well before the test drive. Maybe some fluid collected in a grooved area or something and slowly made its way down, I dunno. I'm not losing any trans fluid as far as I know - I've checked the fluid level on the dipstick several times and have checked the bellhousing/trans pan area frequently for the past week. It's completely dry now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 Cool. Sounds like you are good to go then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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