wilson Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 I've been chasing a noise that I thought was the A/C tension pulley. I've determined that it is coming from under the distributor cap. The noise sounds like a bad bearing sound, not high pitched but a kind of low pitch grinding that comes and goes. I jiggled the cables and that tends to initiate it but this is inconsistent. I took it off and saw nothing out of the ordinary. is it possible there is a bad bearing below the cap? The cap and rotor are relatively new, a year and a half. should I be worried? figures it starts a week before we leave for the Baja 1000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 Presumably there are bearings in the distributor... first thing to do is likely take the cap off and look inside, if you didn't already, but that wouldn't tell you anything about distributor bearings... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilson Posted November 10, 2010 Author Share Posted November 10, 2010 Presumably there are bearings in the distributor... first thing to do is likely take the cap off and look inside, if you didn't already, but that wouldn't tell you anything about distributor bearings... yes, I did that. I saw nothing out of the ordinary. is it difficult to replace the distributor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 No. Though I've never taken it out without the top plenum off. Hopefully you could switch it without doing that (though even that is only probably an hour or so of work). The problem is they are somewhat expensive... $200? I really don't know if this is your problem though. I had a distributor die on my car before, but the symptoms there were ignition problems. Unfortunately the very expensive replacement also died a few months later. Third one has worked for a while... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilson Posted November 10, 2010 Author Share Posted November 10, 2010 I really don't know if this is your problem though. me neither Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 the dizy is esay to swap, JY dizy's are cheap reman dizy's are very expesive becasue almost all of them come with (expensive) angle sensors. a correct size bearing, from a bearing shop, is $10 if you feel up to the task I can walk you thru it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilson Posted November 10, 2010 Author Share Posted November 10, 2010 the dizy is esay to swap, JY dizy's are cheap reman dizy's are very expesive becasue almost all of them come with (expensive) angle sensors. a correct size bearing, from a bearing shop, is $10 if you feel up to the task I can walk you thru it. so there is a bear the whole thing spins on below the cap? there is no need to replace the distributor? I feel up to the task for sure. I'm going to mexico with it so the peace of mind is neccesary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 I think what he's saying is you can take the distributor apart (which is probably somewhat unusual), find the bearing(s), and replace it/them. If you decide you're willing to replace the distributor anyway, then you could pull it out and start trying to find the bearing This might become one of those things that takes more time than it is worth though, depending on how close you are to a junkyard, or how much your time is worth. But I bet I'm going to do something similar too with my rear windshield wiper motor so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shotzie417 Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 does it get louder in higher rpms or does it stop after while? idk could it be the gear on the cam and the gear on the distributer to close causeing a high pitched whine kind of like in a rear end when the ring and pinion gap is to close? just posibly helpfull guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 (edited) The bearing is fairly easy to replace if you some basic hand tools and a few correct punches. Nobody lists the specific part so you would have to take it in and get it measured and see how long it takes to get ordered(or it might just be on the shelf) There is also a bushing, on the lower part of the saft. not as easy to change but rock auto sells the bushings... Edited November 11, 2010 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilson Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 (edited) well I scored a distributor from the local JY. I put it in while trying hard to mantain the original timing. the truck now runs a little rough and lacks a little power. I assume the timing is now incorrect. am I right in assuming this? at this point i need to set the timing again. so I need a light. when I point it toward the crankshaft, I see the indicator(arrow) there. I loosen ahd turn the distributor till the timing is correct? what will I see when it is correct? I guess I'm asking how do I use a timing light. thanks in advance fellas FYI replacing the ditributor did not fix the noise. damnit. Edited December 7, 2010 by wilson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 There should be a set of marks on the crank pulley. I think it varies slightly. Mine (1991) has 7 notches. From the left, when looking in they are 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 degrees BTDC. You want 15. So you need to figure out your mark system. The arrow points at the marks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 I have seen a 4 (my 95) and 5 (2000) notch version. With the 4 it should be in the middle of the 2 inner notches and with the 5 it should be right on the middle one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilson Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 someone should make a bumpers sticker that reads " everything I know,I learned on NPORA". you guys kick ass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 When you put the distributor in, did you line the dimple on the gear up with the little arrow on the housing while the engine was at No. 1 TDC and make sure the rotor was facing somewhat towards the No. 1 plug contact? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilson Posted December 8, 2010 Author Share Posted December 8, 2010 (edited) When you put the distributor in, did you line the dimple on the gear up with the little arrow on the housing while the engine was at No. 1 TDC and make sure the rotor was facing somewhat towards the No. 1 plug contact? umm .. no. I just lined it up as close to possible to the way it came out.. what is the process to get the #1 cylinder to TDC? do I have to remove the plugs? can I turn it over with a socket and breaker bar? my flywheel has 7 lines and with the distributor cranked all the way in one direction I can only get the second from the left to line up So I assume the distributor installed incorrectly. Edited December 8, 2010 by wilson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilson Posted December 8, 2010 Author Share Posted December 8, 2010 also I acquired a mechanics stethoscope and have pinpointed the noise to be coming from the timing belt cover nearest the left hand camshaft sprocket. this sounds bad, thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 Sounds like it could be the tensioner going out. It is on the left side. That is something I would make top priority. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilson Posted December 8, 2010 Author Share Posted December 8, 2010 Sounds like it could be the tensioner going out. It is on the left side. That is something I would make top priority. Sorry, it is what the manual refers to as the left hand cam sprocket. meaning drivers side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 Yeah, the tensioner is on the "right" passenger side. Water pump? You can turn the engine over by hand. 27 mm socket, reach from underneath. When you line it up the arrow with the mark for TDC you will either be at #1 TDC or #4 TDC. Don't choose the wrong one, or you can blow up your muffler. I should upload some pics of that one. Usually the easiest way to tell which is which is to look at the distributor rotor. If you are at #1 TDC then the rotor will be pointing generally to the passenger side of the vehicle. This works if you are sure you put the distributor in in generally the same position you took it out (rotor wise). If not the next easiest thing I think is to remove the passenger valve cover. When at #1 TDC NOT all the lifters will be down. If they are all down then you are at #4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilson Posted December 8, 2010 Author Share Posted December 8, 2010 Yeah, the tensioner is on the "right" passenger side. Water pump? You can turn the engine over by hand. 27 mm socket, reach from underneath. When you line it up the arrow with the mark for TDC you will either be at #1 TDC or #4 TDC. Don't choose the wrong one, or you can blow up your muffler. I should upload some pics of that one. Usually the easiest way to tell which is which is to look at the distributor rotor. If you are at #1 TDC then the rotor will be pointing generally to the passenger side of the vehicle. This works if you are sure you put the distributor in in generally the same position you took it out (rotor wise). If not the next easiest thing I think is to remove the passenger valve cover. When at #1 TDC NOT all the lifters will be down. If they are all down then you are at #4. awesome, the mark for TDC being 0, or the first mark on the flywheel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 awesome, the mark for TDC being 0, or the first mark on the flywheel? The flywheel is actually in the bell housing between the transmission and the engine, but you mean the main crank pulley, right? I think the correct mark depends on the type of marks you have. On my truck, with 7 notches, the TDC mark (or 0 degrees BTDC) is the furthest to the passenger side of the car, so the last one you get to as you rotate the engine in the forward direction, which is clockwise when viewed from the front. If you don't have 7 notches, then I don't know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilson Posted December 8, 2010 Author Share Posted December 8, 2010 The flywheel is actually in the bell housing between the transmission and the engine, but you mean the main crank pulley, right? I think the correct mark depends on the type of marks you have. On my truck, with 7 notches, the TDC mark (or 0 degrees BTDC) is the furthest to the passenger side of the car, so the last one you get to as you rotate the engine in the forward direction, which is clockwise when viewed from the front. If you don't have 7 notches, then I don't know. yes! that is what I meant! haha. I too have 7 marks thanks for this info. its all coming together now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 I would like to point one thing out... if the crank pulley has been removed before and not set on properly, No. 1 TDC will not occur when the furthest left 0 degree timing mark is aligned with the arrow. I made this mistake and spent almost 4 hours trying to figure out why the engine wouldn't run and how I was managing to get the timing 180 degrees out sometimes. Double check the crank pulley by removing the No. 1 plug and making sure the piston is at the top of it's travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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