chrisgerman1983 Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 (edited) I am planning on changing my balljoints this weekend, does anybody have any advice? even things that may seem obvious to most! In the haynes manual is says to drop the axle. is it easier to just remove the CV's?... if somebody could pretty much walk me through it, it would be much appreciated. I usually would have a mechanic do this kind of thing but money is tight so its time to get my hands dirty Edited October 22, 2010 by chrisgerman1983 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 You don't have to remove the cv. Just undo the snap ring and slide back a little, enough so you can get the ball joint out. Other than that it is pretty straight forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Remove Autohub and assembly, basically just to remove the snap ring but easiest to pull the few small pieces out and keep them safe/clean. The upper ball joint is much easier than the lower. a 27mm castle nut holds the lower one on, I would assume the same for the upper, and of course with a castle nut, is a cotter pin. 4 12mm bolts hold the upper to the hub assembly. 4 12mm (might be 14) bolts with nuts hold the lower BJ to the lower control arm. Once the upper ball joint is unbolted you should be able to wiggle the cv out enough to get the lower ball joint out, careful not the bind up the brake line! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisgerman1983 Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 Thanks for the help. read the haynes again and doesnt actually say to drop the whole thing just says to remove the CV. im gonna do like you guys said and just pull it out enough to free the balljoint. i didnt know i had upper balljoints though, maybe i should be replacing them too?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 $7 pitman arm puller is what autozone sells it as works great for pressing the bj out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 Uppers wear. Out faster than lowers in my experience Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 Hey guys... you're giving false infos here... he has a 98.... there is no auto hub, or upper-lower balljoints... only one ball joint per side and only one control arm... folow what adamzan said.. just remove the snap ring and it will be easier if you have an helper to pull on the strut/hub assembly while you remove the balljoint.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 Ah well specify year in the post lol...I'm on my phone and don't have time to look up truck info sorry for providing bad info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisgerman1983 Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 Got it all done. realized pretty quick i had no upper balljoints i just undid the snapring and the tierod ends (replaced them too) hardest part was lining up the 3 control arm bolts after, well that and trying to remove the tierods and balljoints with out a seperator i got the fork type. I had to walk to the parts store though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 I like the fork type if I am not going to be reusing the balljoint as it is a way to relieve stress at the same time hahaha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawzzy Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 I like the fork type if I am not going to be reusing the balljoint as it is a way to relieve stress at the same time hahaha. One thing ill add...when i did mine, i bought lifetime guarentee...they didnt come with cotter pin they came with nylon locking nut instead. The ball joint would turn before i could get it torqued down tight enuff. When i test drove it, it still clunked. Put it up on jacks, wiggled tire, had play in ball joint, manual suggested worn out knuckle (oval hole to receive ball joint stud) When i went to replace the whole knuckle thats when i noticed the one new BJ wasnt tight. I had to use a "C" clamp to clamp the BJ down in its seat to get eneff resistance to have the BJ nut torqued to spec!!!!! STUPID NYLON NUTS!!!! tye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Whoops, I also did not see that it was for an r50. Sorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisgerman1983 Posted October 27, 2010 Author Share Posted October 27, 2010 One thing ill add...when i did mine, i bought lifetime guarentee...they didnt come with cotter pin they came with nylon locking nut instead. The ball joint would turn before i could get it torqued down tight enuff. When i test drove it, it still clunked. Put it up on jacks, wiggled tire, had play in ball joint, manual suggested worn out knuckle (oval hole to receive ball joint stud) When i went to replace the whole knuckle thats when i noticed the one new BJ wasnt tight. I had to use a "C" clamp to clamp the BJ down in its seat to get eneff resistance to have the BJ nut torqued to spec!!!!! STUPID NYLON NUTS!!!! tye i wonder if my knuckle is worn too? it still clunked a little after but it wasnt bad. it has been getting worse though. may have to try the C-clamp and retorque. So does the ball inside the joint actually spin as you were tightening it? How did you get a c-clamp on it good with the balljoint shaft getting in the way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 Attach the balljoint to the control arm before tightening it fully that's how I did it on the r50 I replaced lbjs on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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