Compression Rod Bushings and sleeves

[unccpathfinder]

So I want to know about folks experiences with compression rod bushings after a lift...I've replaced mine twice in the past 3 months...once because I whacked a rock and split the bushings but this time the sleeve on the driver side has ate through the sleeve in under 2000 miles...

 

I'm hoping its chinese crap steel for the sleeves and they're eating through like it's copper or something (exaggeration)

 

What brands do others use and havent had problems? SAS is out of the question as well

[SteeevO]

What sleeve ate through what?

I'm a little confused.

 

Either way. those bushings shouldnt wear that fast at all.

[unccpathfinder]

Steve you have the compression rod which mounts to the LCA, then it mounts to the frame.... the sleve goes around that control rod and the bushing goes on the forward side and rear side of the frame mount point...

 

Reference (orignal that had almost 200k on it):

 

[SteeevO]

I knew what bushings you were talking about just didn't know what ate what. so a compression rod basically got a chunk cut off the end? is that what that small piece is in the middle of the picture?

[unccpathfinder]

the middle piece is the sleeve and its intended to be "consumable" but not ot the tune of 2000 miles...

 

here is where it passes through and the sleeve rubs on the frame as the LCA moves with the suspension (mostly on the top side)

 

[adamzan]

I installed new ones and 1.5 years later they also had noticeable wear. This time I had someone close in the holes and clean them up with a die grinder, then new rods, bushings and sleeves were installed and I haven't had a problem so far but I've only put 2k miles on them and haven't wheeled much.

[unccpathfinder]

I thought about that but by design they need some movement to pivot with suspension travel so I havent attempted a fix in that respect yet

[SteeevO]

you're missing the cups that are supposed to be welded on the truck end that keep the bushing centered. some people have welded old bearing races in it's place.

I'm betting that would keep this from happening.

[unccpathfinder]

they're there...htat was before i rewelded it back on...this is on the trail after i split the bushing after the first swap

 

[adamzan]

I have a bit of pivot room in it, I saw it when they did the job. Are you tightening them too tight?

[SteeevO]

..... Are you tightening them too tight?

 

x2

Edited September 28, 2010 by SteeevO

[MY1PATH]

If your lifted you may try bolting the rod to the top of the arm instead of the bottom.

I'm gonna try this soon and I think I should reduce the angle & strain on the bushing.

It will also (in theroy) alter the load path in a way that reduces brake dive.

Don't forget an alignment after moving it.

[unccpathfinder]

The bushing itself is fine but the steel sleeve is what is failing...that cracked bushing is from an impact load

[KovemaN]

The sleeve is only going to fail after the bushing. I had to mess around with my replacement cups (bearing cups) to get the right thickness behind them. Washers were too thick. I ended up using a thin shim welded under the cup. The top and bottom pics are a washer that was ground down. The middle is the thinner shim that I didn't have to grind.

 

[MY1PATH]

The bushing itself is fine but the steel sleeve is what is failing...that cracked bushing is from an impact load

 

1 the sleve is meant to fail before the frame, just maybe not that fast

2 a more relaxed angle will also help the sleve

3 or you can wait for me to guinea pig the mod I reccomended...(prolly won't happen for a while life is gettin really bussy)

[unccpathfinder]

Yes I know the desaign intent behind the joint...I'm looking at fabbing my own with a Johnny joint or bushing in shear instead of tension but need to do some loading studies BC both of those will probably fail prematurely as well

[unccpathfinder]

pulled it apart otnight...sleeve is in good condition with very minor rubbing.....i noticed my problem about 30 seconds into the job...the rearward most bolt backed out about 3 threads(teflon lock ring is toast and i didnt put locktite on it thinking it was under enough tension to not back off...i was wrong...) the passenger side was doing the same but was loose not backed off...got it disassembled and reassembled in about an hour and the ride height came back to a good location...so i will hopefully replace those bolts soon