Calmini Panhard Drop Down Bracket Problems

[Cuong Nguyen]

Finally got around to attempting to install the bracket. apparently the top holes don't line up as the factory bracket has offset holes due to the welding it together.

 

Is it just mine or does everyone seem to have this problem. the hole is offset so a bolt won't through straight.

[RedPath88]

Heard this complaint about a few of them before. iirc some people have simply ground out the holes to make it fit while others filled it (weld) then re-drilled.

[Dowser]

Sounds about right if its from Calmini. Seems they have a little trouble making things line up. I think I read from Precise that the idler arm brace he bought didnt line up properly either.

 

Makes me angry that a company that produces something for a specific vehicle doesnt get things worked out before selling them to the public. I know I hated my UCA's when i bought them although people told me that they switched bushings in their later models. Mind you you still have to grind out the shock hole to accommodate different shock brands to fit without hitting.

 

At any rate.

 

Good luck with the install.

Edited May 10, 2010 by Dowser

[Cuong Nguyen]

Well that just sucks.

 

BTW, tested out the factory "4 link" suspension. Geometry is wack. Would not recommend anyone driving without the panhard unless at like 10 mph.

[KovemaN]

Reading the title of the topic I got a laugh. If you have the bracket you probably have problems. I used a piece of 3/8 mild steel rod for the top bolt. First I made a 90 degree bend with a .75" leg into one end and then I threaded the other end to accept a nylon lock nut that I had laying around. The 3/8" rod is small enough to account for the poor tolerances of the bracket and frame. I will copy mine and send you one for free if you want. DO NOT drive without it.

[Cuong Nguyen]

Id rather just drill it out. I can just reattach the panhard bar back to the stock location since that's how it's been for the past 8 years.

[Dowser]

Reading the title of the topic I got a laugh. If you have the bracket you probably have problems. I used a piece of 3/8 mild steel rod for the top bolt. First I made a 90 degree bend with a .75" leg into one end and then I threaded the other end to accept a nylon lock nut that I had laying around. The 3/8" rod is small enough to account for the poor tolerances of the bracket and frame. I will copy mine and send you one for free if you want. DO NOT drive without it.

 

Have a Picture of that by chance? be nice to use for reference.

[Precise1]

I think I read from Precise that the idler arm brace he bought didnt line up properly either.

 

Exactly. It was so out of square (visibly out) that the bolt holes for the idler arm were impossible to line up. A call to Calmini got me the promise of a return call from an applications engineer. No return call. I'm not going to waste much time on a $20 item but I can say I no longer consider buying any Calmini product.

 

If you fark up an idler arm brace so bad that it can't be mounted and it gets through inspection, powder coating and shipping and then you don't even follow up on a valid customer complaint, your product/service isn't worth sheit.

 

B

[Tungsten]

Calminis manufacturing is done by drunks, you can probably make better stuff yourself.

[KovemaN]

What's wrong with drunks?

 

You can see from the backside that the hole isn't even close to lining up.

 

Edited May 11, 2010 by KovemaN

[tmoore4512]

I had to take some material out of the top hole towards the rear on my install as well. Used a die grinder, and a dremel...worked out great...

 

But I must agree...

 

Calmini stuff is WAY over rated.