Passed Emissions

[Jordan]

So i was having trouble with emission testing here, it was keeping me from gettin my pathy transfered into my name,

so i bit the bullet and went to a mechanic. First of all this guy was really cool, totaly honest and gave me great free advice to help me pass emissions. Its super simple i just never really thought of it. I FAILED my first test because both of my cats were bad- according to the computer. What the mechanic told me is that the cateletic converter rediness monitor is the last one to reset. In Spokane they give you too rediness monitors that can be offline and still pass. so i drove for a while reset them all ( your owners manual will tell you driving techniques) as soon as my obd2 scanner said all were ready but the EVAP and the CAT i drove to the testing station and PASSED YAY!

so now im legal to drive

 

Just sharing because some people might not think of this method

it works in a pinch and you dont have 300 bucks to drop on new CATS.

 

heres a pic of my pathy too. - only paid $250 ran and drive (needed a rebuild)

its a 99 and i fit 33 10.50 bfg ats with no lift it rubs but not too bad

 

 

Heres the day i got it

 

[maikan]

Wow great for you to pass the test ! Good for me we don't have emission test here, cause I don't understand how you pass.

 

But you are sitting on 33x10.5 and have almost no rubbing ?

I have a 99 and rub a little on 31, just can't imagine 33 !

I should take a look at my suspension and look into a lift

Edited April 14, 2010 by maikan

[skulptr]

jordan you MUST teach me this trick! i have emissions coming up in december, and my obd2 scan runs red

 

 

 

i have my 97 on 33x12.50 with no rubbing.

 

 

 

also this kid is NUTS, he's selling his nissan pickup to fix his rx7

j/k the pickup is sweet, you should put it up here for sale.

Edited April 15, 2010 by skulptr

[silverton]

You could always fix what's wrong with your rig... haha. Glad I've never owned an OBD2 vehicle. All OBD1 needs is a good cat, haha!

[esy]

can you explain what you're exactly doing?

 

i've never seen the ECU give a code that your cat is bad. the only thing i could imagine you're speaking of are the pre and post cat O2 sensors, but "tricking" the ECU to say that O2 sensors are still good (i.e. clearing the codes or what not) won't pass the actual emissions part since you'll be super rich in the HC and CO readings. at the same time, even if it was a bad cat, you'll probably have higher than normal readings as well and probably won't be able to pass the sniff test.

 

but a little more explanantion may help. not exactly sure what's being done.

[Jordan]

Here they plug your ecu into a comp and check for trouble codes. No sniff test on OBD2 vehicals. So basically if you have a trouble code in your ecu(mine was saying bad cats) you can go get a OBD2 tester and erase your codes. If you were to go test for emissions right after you erase your codes they would fail you because your emission readyness monitors have not reset yet. Emission readyness motiors test the ignition system evap system o2 o2 heaters all your emission sensors. They reset after a certian amount of time while driving. so what you do is drive your pathy stop every 1-2 miles check your monitors with the obd2 reader. THIS ONLY WORKS IF YOU HAVE BAD CATS OR EVAP SYSTEM. Those are the last two to reset on the vehical. so where i live they let you have two readyness monitors that can have the not ready status- IE the ecu hasnt checked the output for the cats and evap system yet. so once you get to the point were all of your other readynes monitors are reset except the last two - (cats and evap system) and you have no other fault codes you haul A$$ or just be real close to the emissions station test and it passes because there is no fault codes and since they let you have two Freebies your ecu hasnt checked your cat system there for it hasnt thrown a code yet.

 

Sorry im confusing it sounds right in my head just never right on screen hopefully that is better

 

 

I think this wouldnt work in other higher emission states like CA because their nazis about that stuff and are reallllly picky about what they let pass emissions

Edited April 15, 2010 by Jordan

[esy]

some of what you're saying makes mild sense. what i'm getting at is that i've never seen a bad cat throw a code, which is why it's confusing me. there aren't any sensors to detect a bad cat that i'm aware of on any vehicle.

 

at the same time, clearing a code for a bad cat (even if it did throw a code) wouldn't help pass emissions when they actually measure the emissions. a bad cat will show increased HC, CO, and possibly even increased NOx. that's where i'm getting the confusion.

[adamzan]

I think the bad cat code is something like catalyst inefficiency bank (whatever)

[silverton]

on ODB2 vehicles there is, essentially, a bad cat code. The first o2 sensor is for the computer to adjust fuel trims. the second o2 sensor is to make sure the cat is still working, that is why it's after the cat. that is the only purpose of the 2nd o2 sensor.

[esy]

correct. 1st O2 sensor adjusts actual emissions/trim, as you said, 2nd pretty much reads out what is coming through post cat. but, i've never seen a bad cat code is what i'm saying. seen several bad codes for O2 sensors. and as i was saying, even if you cleared the codes (which is pretty easily done), if you've got a bad O2 sensor pre or post cat, emissions in general, will still be bad.

 

i know CA has the worst and most strict emissions testing, but i would assume the emissions gases are still being measured and would have to fall under a certain maximum allowed limit, yeah?

[Kingman]

On OBDII vehicles, the oxygen sensors read what's going in and out of the cat. If both sensors mirror themselves, then it's an indication of a bad catalytic converter. That's when the computer realizes there's a problem and throws a catalyst efficiency code.