Adam Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 (edited) I just got done splicing in a harness from a boneyard Pathy, to replace some burned out wires under the hood(2 of them, one going to the resistor/condensor I posted a thread on previously, and the other going to what I assume is the ground on the distributor). Now that I'm done with that, nothing has changed, it runs as it did before, it won't go over 4krpm, it's somewhat hard to start, it's very loapy, and hates to rev. It ran before it was parked back in 2007, and it's been driven a couple of times since then, but now it just doesn't want to cooperate. I've verified firing order, I've checked spark on every plug, it's putting out plenty of spark. Back in 2008 or so, I had replaced the spark plug wires, so they're fairly unused. I've made sure the distributor is correctly at TDC, and I've replaced the fuel filter. I can hear the fuel pump doing it's thing when the key is in the on position. The ECU was replaced back in 2007 as well, a wire near the exhaust manifold had touched it, and killed some things, the shop doing the work felt it needed a new ECU at the time... Here's a vid I took of starting it up. It won't hold idle either. It was easier to start during the vid because I had been running it a moment before I went to get the camera. The audio and video aren't sync'd that well, excellent... Edited April 10, 2010 by Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 (edited) Also, gas is new gas, not the 2 year old stuff. All fluids were replaced as well. Edited April 10, 2010 by Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Could you have hopped a tooth on the timing belt?? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 Could you have hopped a tooth on the timing belt?? B I don't even know how I would check this, or how it would even happen... Hell, I can't even find my old manual for it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 It's not a quick check. How many miles on it and how long/how many miles have you had it. For your model, the timing belt is supposed to changed every 60k miles... I'm not saying that is the issue, just that it could exhibit the same symptoms. When the wires fried, what was the reason for that, and was there something else that was affected before the melt down?? I'm not good with electronics so I can't really help much with that end. I will ask if you have checked the ECU for stored fault codes?? Could be helpful... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 I agree with B on the timing belt. I have heard that if it is off a tooth or 2 that it won't rev up all the way. But I have not confirmed this. Also Check your MAF sensor and the wiring going to it. It is known for the wiring to fail right at the connector because of the sharp angle it is on. Try wiggling the wires while the truck is running to see if it affects anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Alright after watching that video it definitely sounds like it could be the timing belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 Alright after watching that video it definitely sounds like it could be the timing belt. its got 190k on the clock. I'm at auto zone getting a timing belt and manual right now. I only thumbed through the manual, not sure if it covers this, but are there any guides to timing the cams online? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Yes there is a how to on this forum in the garage section. Also doctorbill did an excellent write up as well. Search for them! At 190k if it's never been done that isn't good. Usually you do these items at the same time: -timing belt -tensioner -water pump -thermostat -cam and crank seals ( I would suggest only if they are leaking though.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Damn, slow down!! All the info is here, but a reference manual is good. Go to the Garage section and download the 94 Factory Service Manual manual in PDF form, and then read the Changing Your Timing Belt write up by 5235Pathfinder or something like that (a Nissan mechanic). The Manual is pinned in the Garage, and the Timing Belt Change is in the How To section of the Garage IIRC. I mean to help when I say slow down and look around. I applaud your running off, but lets make sure it is in the right direction. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Oh, Adamzan reminded me, Alkorahil runs a dealership inline parts service with great prices and excelent knowledge. His info is in the Services section so check him out. Unfortunately, his (Rob Lacy) pathy was just totaled by someone hitting it on the side of the road and he got a bit beat up. I'm pretty sure he is back at work now... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 Think you were right, 2 notches. Sorry, I like to jump in head first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 I am back at work....but I move slowly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhardison Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 I am back at work....but I move slowly. I'm glad you're back. Now use your dealership resources and your excellent rust free geographical location to find a great replacement Pathfinder. You know you can't live without one. I know I couldn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Well Adam, I'm not seeing what you are so I'm not sure where the two notches comes from. As long as you know, that's all that matters though. As for jumping head first, I respect that. Just trying to make sure to pool is full before you do, though... I am back at work....but I move slowly. I just read that. Didn't realize it took so long. I'm sorry to hear you are still damaged, but I'm glad to hear you are up and about. If there is anything I can do... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 Just looked at the Timing Belt how-to, very awesome. I'm waiting on my cousin to get here so I can take a trip to the auto parts store to get a 5mm bit, as well as a 6 point socket for removing the vibration damper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 perhaps you can find a vg30e at the junkyard with the round tooth sprockets and swap em i really hate those square ones, they suck so much my 91 pathy runs the round tooth sprockets and belt the timing belt goes a long way on those Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 perhaps you can find a vg30e at the junkyard with the round tooth sprockets and swap em i really hate those square ones, they suck so much my 91 pathy runs the round tooth sprockets and belt the timing belt goes a long way on those I just want to get it running at this point. If I get it running tonight, tomorrow I'll be picking up my 86 BMW 325e and my 01 BMW 330ci to prep them for my frankenstein engine swap into the 86. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 Think you were right, 2 notches. Sorry, I like to jump in head first You're not thinking that your belt jumped because the mark on the belt isn't lining up with the dimple on the cover, are you? Those belt marks are only there to aid in putting it on correctly. They only line up with all the marks every (insert random number) revolutions or something. If you haven't already, you should count the teeth between the gears to see if the belt jumped. There should be 40 teeth between the cam pulleys and 43 between the left cam gear (driver's side) and the crank pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 (edited) You're not thinking that your belt jumped because the mark on the belt isn't lining up with the dimple on the cover, are you? Those belt marks are only there to aid in putting it on correctly. They only line up with all the marks every (insert random number) revolutions or something. If you haven't already, you should count the teeth between the gears to see if the belt jumped. There should be 40 teeth between the cam pulleys and 43 between the left cam gear (driver's side) and the crank pulley. Too late. Just got the vibration damper off, but I ran out of daylight, so I'll finish up tomorrow. If it's not the timing belt, at least I'll have something done that I don't know if it's been done before, and one more thing ruled out. Edited April 11, 2010 by Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 Wasn't timing belt, I'm back where I started again. I'm going to go grab an inline fuel pressure guage to see if it's the fuel pump... I tried pulling codes, but I got no blinking LED's whatsoever, so I'm not really sure what that means, but there isn't a CEL on anyways... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 (edited) No blinking LEDs? There should be a green light on/blinking at all times while the engine is running. You followed the procedure in the How-To, right? If the lights on the ECU aren't blinking as they should be then I'd say there's something wrong with your ECU. Edited April 11, 2010 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 I got the code pulled, 13, gonna check the how to section now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 Btw compression test was fine, 100 give or take a few across the board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 Engine coolant temp sensor doesn't help 1 bit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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