Manual Transmission Issues

[94stickpathy]

My 94 XE was given to me with an issue with the tranny. The clutch pedal does not and will not move. I am thinking that it is the fluid/seals. Any ideas? It is reported to me that the clutch is brand new and there were no problems prior to this. It also evidentally manifested itself over one day. It is currently stuck in gear and will not release the clutch. I'm looking for any insight or ideas before I start tearing things apart.

[beastpath]

the clutch is hydraulic. I'm assuming the pedal is all the way to the floor and wont come up on its own correct?

 

you must have lost fluid somewhere, or gotten air in your system. check the clutch master cylinder fluid level(inside engine compartment on firewall at the drivers side, just to the right of the brake master cylinder). From there you can trace the small pipes to the dampener on the other side of the firewall and from there to the other connectors/fittings until you finally get to the clutch slave cylinder which is on the bottom of the transmission.

 

check for leaks all along these points and tighten up the connectors if needed. if it is leaking from the master cylinder itself you can either buy a new one from nissan, or pull the old one out and get a refurbishment kit. if it is the slave cylinder it is easiest to get a new one.

 

once you have fixed any leaks or replaced leaking parts, fill with DOT4 brake fluid and bleed the system to get the air out, making sure the fluid does not go below the min level.

 

it should work after that. it may take a few times of bleeding it.

[Precise1]

Yes, how is it stuck, in what position?

 

It could be the MC, slave cylinder, pedal linkage or even an issue inside the bell housing. Just give more info and we can track it down.

 

B

[nunya]

There's basicly a verry descriptive helpfull version of what I would say... I would listen to beastpath

[94stickpathy]

Yes, how is it stuck, in what position?

 

It could be the MC, slave cylinder, pedal linkage or even an issue inside the bell housing. Just give more info and we can track it down.

 

B

 

 

The pedal is stuck up. Or the engaged position. It will not move. Thus the car will not run or go, even though it is in first.

[beavis0076]

it wont move forward when started in 1st? if it doesn't i would say your not stuck in first and someone botched your clutch job.

[Precise1]

Ok, does the pedal move at all on it's hinge? Any freeplay what so ever, just to show that the pedal its self is not frozen??

 

Next, check out the slave cylinder. Does it look (hyper)extended? Is the actuation fork in the right position? Put a line on the bleeding nipple of the slave cylinder as if you were going to bleed it, and then open the valve. Does any fluid come out? How much?

Leave it open and see if you can now depress the clutch pedal (be gentle). If the pedal won't move, it has to be the pedal hinge, linkage or MC binding (unless the dampener in the passenger firewall is clogged or something. Never heard of that). If the pedal does move readily, the issue is with the slave cylinder, actuation fork or inside the bell housing.

 

This should all be pretty easy to do so let us know what you learn.

 

B

[R3DN1CK]

The pedal is stuck up. Or the engaged position. It will not move. Thus the car will not run or go, even though it is in first.

flush the fluid and refill with proper fluid. Had a friend of mine use the wrong type brake fluid in his bike and the rear caliper froze up from the fluid boiling, when I went to move the lever the line bust and he got steam in his face. Try to open the bleeder first and if fluid comes out, keep trying to press the pedal with it open. Should release any pressure in the system. might also be something wrong with the throwout bearing arm?

[JamesRich]

the clutch is hydraulic. I'm assuming the pedal is all the way to the floor and wont come up on its own correct?

 

you must have lost fluid somewhere, or gotten air in your system. check the clutch master cylinder fluid level(inside engine compartment on firewall at the drivers side, just to the right of the brake master cylinder). From there you can trace the small pipes to the dampener on the other side of the firewall and from there to the other connectors/fittings until you finally get to the clutch slave cylinder which is on the bottom of the transmission.

 

check for leaks all along these points and tighten up the connectors if needed. if it is leaking from the master cylinder itself you can either buy a new one from nissan, or pull the old one out and get a refurbishment kit. if it is the slave cylinder it is easiest to get a new one.

 

once you have fixed any leaks or replaced leaking parts, fill with DOT4 brake fluid and bleed the system to get the air out, making sure the fluid does not go below the min level.

 

it should work after that. it may take a few times of bleeding it.

The clutch uses DOT4 fluid?

James

[94stickpathy]

GREAT NEWS! The tranny is fixed. Thanks to everyone for all their help. For whatever reason, the car fixed itself.

[BowTied]

What was the problem? Was there a toyota floor mat under the clutch? We need to know!

[94stickpathy]

Honestly, I dont know. We got the car into my driveway, opened the door, and on a whim i pulled the clutch pedal back up. It stayed up. I put it back in, started it, and the car has run fine ever since. It seems to just be a factory issued quirk.

[Precise1]

Well, lets hope it doesn't do it again...

 

B

[94stickpathy]

If it does, I know where to turn!

[94stickpathy]

checked out the tranny in detail today. the reason it was stuck down and wouldnt move was when the new clutch was installed the pedal wasnt attached right and had worked free. it "fixed" itself when the previous owner got it to sit just right. needless to say, i tightened it, and it works just fine.

[Kingman]

Well, that's good you found the reason behind it fixing it's self. Problems that suddenly go away are the worst ones by far in my opinion, you don't know what caused it or when it's going to malfunction again.