RustyButTrusty Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 I am thinking about possibly installing a factory roof rack to my 88 (which never came with one). Will the racks for the 4 doors work for the 2 doors or are they completely different? I'm looking for something somewhat easy to install requiring little or no modification (besides drilling etc), and I'm also wanting to avoid a leaking roof as well as added rust problems. Is this something I should avoid? I also noticed that the 2 door rack I saw at the jy was held to the roof by pop rivets, while the 4 door rack was held on by phillips or torx screws. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 I haven't compared 2 and 4 door roof racks but I would assume they have the same basic foot print. You can install any rack that fits, not just from a pathy. Line it up, drill holes, rivet in threaded inserts (or just jack nuts) and bolt it up. I'm guessing that they switched from rivets to threaded inserts so removal/repair was possible. Riveting on a roof rack seems questionable. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 The Nissan roof rack accessory kit (999R1-WE000) was the same from MY 86-95 for all WD21. So yes it should work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 when drilling holes, what does one put in the hole to attach the rack to the roof without rust? i might be getting a stock 4dr pathfinder one tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 (edited) There are a multitude of rust inhibitor products out there. Any decent auto parts store or hardware store will have them. Needless to say, stay away from one in a spray can. Edited August 26, 2010 by Alkorahil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 I'm not sure exactly what yo are asking... Use a pop rivet gun to install threaded inserts or buy jacknuts. Use a step drill to cut the hole in the sheet metal and seal it with a little RTV. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Bama Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Self drilling screws with a rubber washer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 There are a multitude of rust inhibitor products out there. Any decent auto parts store or hardware store will have them. Needless to say, stay away from one in a spray can. Sweet ill have to run down to Oriely auto parts in the next couple days.. I'm not sure exactly what yo are asking... Use a pop rivet gun to install threaded inserts or buy jacknuts. Use a step drill to cut the hole in the sheet metal and seal it with a little RTV. B not sure what im asking? how do i fasten the roof rack to my pathy (not roof rack equipped)without it rusting where i drill holes? what is this RTV stuff? Self drilling screws with a rubber washer yeah? u would think that water or moisture would still get through the top or the moisture would come from the inside like a few other spot in the pathy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Ahh, ok, I get it. There are many types as Alkorahil said, and for this application even the spray stuff can work but would be messy and hard not to broadcast. As for RTV, it is a silicone sealant, Permatex is a good, common brand. For your application, almost any would work but for an unnoticable install, go with the red... As a machinist, I tend to do things overkill, but I don't think I would use self tapping sheet metal screws for a roof rack. That metal is awful thin and I'd hate to rip it off on the freeway with a load!! B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 Ahh, ok, I get it. There are many types as Alkorahil said, and for this application even the spray stuff can work but would be messy and hard not to broadcast. As for RTV, it is a silicone sealant, Permatex is a good, common brand. For your application, almost any would work but for an unnoticable install, go with the red... As a machinist, I tend to do things overkill, but I don't think I would use self tapping sheet metal screws for a roof rack. That metal is awful thin and I'd hate to rip it off on the freeway with a load!! B ok so do i have to take the headliner off from the inside? to put bolts in? im not sure how the factory rack is attached from the factory.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 Ahh, ok, I get it. There are many types as Alkorahil said, and for this application even the spray stuff can work but would be messy and hard not to broadcast. As for RTV, it is a silicone sealant, Permatex is a good, common brand. For your application, almost any would work but for an unnoticable install, go with the red... As a machinist, I tend to do things overkill, but I don't think I would use self tapping sheet metal screws for a roof rack. That metal is awful thin and I'd hate to rip it off on the freeway with a load!! B ok so do i have to take the headliner off from the inside? to put bolts in? im not sure how the factory rack is attached from the factory.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 I don't know either, both my pathys are bald. Yes, removing the headliner is best but if you are careful/gamble a bit, not necessary at all. Post 2 & 6 talk about mounting options. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 I don't know either, both my pathys are bald. Yes, removing the headliner is best but if you are careful/gamble a bit, not necessary at all. Post 2 & 6 talk about mounting options. B yeah, but i dont know what "rivet in threaded inserts" or "jack nuts" are... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 I used the treaded rivet nuts to mount my roof rack. I got them at harbor freight. I did pull the headliner so I knew what I was drilling into and you don't want your bit to go through the headliner or just rip a big hole in it. I used some acrylic windshield adhesive to seal the rivets and them used teflon tape on the treads of the screws I put in the rivets. Its also I good time to add sound deadening material and insulation to the roof while you have the headliner out. As Precise said I'm a machinist too and always over do it. It took me a month and a half to finally get the rack mounted up. Course I had to cut it up to make it fit so fitment took most of my time. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 Its also I good time to add sound deadening material and insulation to the roof while you have the headliner out. Good idea and point! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 yeah, but i dont know what "rivet in threaded inserts" or "jack nuts" are... There is this amazing new thing called... GOOGLE!! Seriously Kyle, you are able to figure this out. Don't ask without thinking or trying, ask after you have thought/tried. This basic principle will serve you well in life... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Bama Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 (edited) Ahh, ok, I get it. There are many types as Alkorahil said, and for this application even the spray stuff can work but would be messy and hard not to broadcast. As for RTV, it is a silicone sealant, Permatex is a good, common brand. For your application, almost any would work but for an unnoticable install, go with the red... As a machinist, I tend to do things overkill, but I don't think I would use self tapping sheet metal screws for a roof rack. That metal is awful thin and I'd hate to rip it off on the freeway with a load!! B I am at a loss.If you take the headliner out and use bolts,are u bolting the roof rack to some other reinforcement under the top? if not,I do not see the difference in bolts and self tapping screws.The screws ar just bolts to begin with that drill thierself.If you wanted to add a nut,u can also do that.Figured this was easier than drilling holes,then sliding bolt in and taking headliner out all for the nut. Ive used these to secure tool boxes etc and never had one fly off or rip the metal. Edited August 27, 2010 by 1987Bama Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 (edited) There is this amazing new thing called... GOOGLE!! Seriously Kyle, you are able to figure this out. Don't ask without thinking or trying, ask after you have thought/tried. This basic principle will serve you well in life... B ya know, for some reason i never think of google when asking these questions... I think im gonna do these... Edited August 27, 2010 by SexJelly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 I am at a loss.If you take the headliner out and use bolts,are u bolting the roof rack to some other reinforcement under the top? if not,I do not see the difference in bolts and self tapping screws.The screws ar just bolts to begin with that drill thierself.If you wanted to add a nut,u can also do that.Figured this was easier than drilling holes,then sliding bolt in and taking headliner out all for the nut. Ive used these to secure tool boxes etc and never had one fly off or rip the metal. No, we are talking about riveting in a threaded insert or using a jacknut (like an expanding drywall anchor but for sheet metal, mine are 1/4-20). Both are far stronger and/or cover more surface area to spread the load than a sheet metal screw and are 'blind hole' applications so no real need to pull the headliner. Sheet metal screws would work ok if the metal was 2-4 times thicker IMO, but the roof is really thin, I bet I could pull a sheet metal screw out by hand. Remember the wind resistance factor of a roof rack also. Say Kyly straps a matress to the roof rack, jumps on the freeway for 2 miles, the wind catches the front end and lifts it into a sail (we have all seen this, I think), I could see sheet metal screws pulling out pretty quick. I may be wrong, but I prefer to err to the side of safety. B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 ya know, for some reason i never think of google when asking these questions... I think im gonna do these... Yep, that's what I have, somewhere... I have the 1/4-20 ones that are vinyl coated for better sealing. If you go metric, get the M6. FYI, I bought mine at Napa Auto Parts, and I'm sure any local sheet metal place or good hardware store will stock them also... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 Yep, that's what I have, somewhere... I have the 1/4-20 ones that are vinyl coated for better sealing. If you go metric, get the M6. FYI, I bought mine at Napa Auto Parts, and I'm sure any local sheet metal place or good hardware store will stock them also... B yeah, im gonna use those, looks much eaiser, does any random screw work or do they come with screws? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Bama Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 No, we are talking about riveting in a threaded insert or using a jacknut (like an expanding drywall anchor but for sheet metal, mine are 1/4-20). Both are far stronger and/or cover more surface area to spread the load than a sheet metal screw and are 'blind hole' applications so no real need to pull the headliner. Sheet metal screws would work ok if the metal was 2-4 times thicker IMO, but the roof is really thin, I bet I could pull a sheet metal screw out by hand. Remember the wind resistance factor of a roof rack also. Say Kyly straps a matress to the roof rack, jumps on the freeway for 2 miles, the wind catches the front end and lifts it into a sail (we have all seen this, I think), I could see sheet metal screws pulling out pretty quick. I may be wrong, but I prefer to err to the side of safety. B ok,makes sense. just seen self tappers used on my isuzu forums.Guess the tops are thicker on them. and as far as water,whatever you use, dip them (lightly) in waterproofing goop. Marine or Automotive Goop) If you have any doubts as to what to use, go to a marine equipment store (boats). If you have the time (make the time), do a little search on saltwater fasteners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 was pop rivets wrong to do? i used some silicone sealant and rubber washers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 yeah, im gonna use those, looks much eaiser, does any random screw work or do they come with screws? They use (but do not come with) bolts. For the roof rack, I'm guessing 1/4-20 or M6 would be appropriate. was pop rivets wrong to do? i used some silicone sealant and rubber washers... I haven't doon a lot of riveting, but no, I wouldn't have used them. Too small in diameter as you noted (lateral shifting can fatigue them) and not removable... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted August 31, 2010 Share Posted August 31, 2010 They use (but do not come with) bolts. For the roof rack, I'm guessing 1/4-20 or M6 would be appropriate. I haven't doon a lot of riveting, but no, I wouldn't have used them. Too small in diameter as you noted (lateral shifting can fatigue them) and not removable... B one day when i get bored i guess ill drill the rivets out and put those "jack nuts" in there... until then, i just wont put stuff on it thatll try and fly away... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now