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Do I Need Ecu Programming?


Tungsten
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Ok first of all heres my setup:

VG30E with Auto

 

Doug Thorley Short Tube Headers with 2.25" collector

2.00" Midpipe

2.00" Magnaflow NON-CARB Catalytic Converter

2.00" Flowmaster 60 series muffler

2.00" Tailpipe

 

Now when the truck warms up, it runs slightly rich, and its good for a few minutes until it gets warmed up.

When starting to accelerate now it doesn't dump enough fuel and almost stalls out the engine!

I checked the ECU, it checks out as 55.

 

This happened right after I put on the Flowmaster 60 muffler, it was good with the stock one but sounded crappy.

 

I think what happened is it used to rely on the extra back-pressure to keep it going but not anymore.

The exhaust flow improved and so did my fuel economy and even sounds nice now but its like WTF to drive. :headwall:

 

Can anyone help me out? :scratchhead:

I can make a video if you want to see it.

Edited by Tungsten
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when is the last time you,

cleaned your MAF

Changed your o2 sensor

Reset your ECU so It can generate new fuel curves?

 

the above sould be considered in that order anytime you do anything that noteably effects how much can go in an out of the engine. replacing a clogged muffler or cat with a high flow alternative fall into that category. but you did it all and more. If you go into fuel ratio mode on your ecu and drive It will tell you if your are more than 5% lean or more than 5% rich.

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Your set up is almost identical to mine, and I do not have that issue. :shrug:

 

Right now I suspect that my intake is the restrictive point, but it doesn't stumble or hesitate or die.

 

Did you replace the O2 sensor? Check the resistance of the two outer most pins, it should be between 1-1000 ohms IIRC.

Just for kicks check the wiring connector to the MAF. Have you ever changed your fuel filter.

 

To answer your question, no, you shouldn't need to have your ECU remapped.

 

B

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when is the last time you,

cleaned your MAF

Changed your o2 sensor

Reset your ECU so It can generate new fuel curves?

 

the above sould be considered in that order anytime you do anything that noteably effects how much can go in an out of the engine. replacing a clogged muffler or cat with a high flow alternative fall into that category. but you did it all and more. If you go into fuel ratio mode on your ecu and drive It will tell you if your are more than 5% lean or more than 5% rich.

 

idk about MAF, looks clean

o2? theres no code for that...

i reset the ECU by turning the diagnostic screw

 

Your set up is almost identical to mine, and I do not have that issue. :shrug:

 

Right now I suspect that my intake is the restrictive point, but it doesn't stumble or hesitate or die.

 

Did you replace the O2 sensor? Check the resistance of the two outer most pins, it should be between 1-1000 ohms IIRC.

Just for kicks check the wiring connector to the MAF. Have you ever changed your fuel filter.

 

To answer your question, no, you shouldn't need to have your ECU remapped.

 

B

 

fuel filter was changed recently yes

whats the interval on those?

Edited by Tungsten
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Normally quite a bit, as in years and 10s of thousands of miles but if you have crap in your tank, it could be much more frequent. I ask as that is usually step 1 if there is a fuel delivery issue, especially when it is only when high fuel flow is needed.

 

Check your o2 sensor next. Do you have any exhaust leaks?

 

B

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To answer your question, no, you shouldn't need to have your ECU remapped.

sorry I didn't make that clear

 

 

idk about MAF, looks clean

o2? theres no code for that...

i reset the ECU by turning the diagnostic screw

if the o2 sensor has deposits on it blocking a proper reading it will not throw a code

the diagnostics screw only resets stored codes, resetting the ecu itsef required disconnecting the battery long enough for it to lose any sored information on how it made your engine run. Your engine runs differant and it needs to 'learn that'

 

I a similar probem when I did headers (hesitaed but did not stall)and full exhuast, a mechanic told me to change the o2 and unplug the battery for 4 hours. turn the key & hit the brakes before re-connecting (completes the drain) It ran rich for about an hour after I did that but no more hesitating and it felt allot better all around.

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ok well i just unplugged the battery

ill see what happens when i plug it back in

 

even if it does work good, im still planning on replacing the o2 sensor because the old one is probably covered in crud

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ok well i just unplugged the battery

ill see what happens when i plug it back in

 

even if it does work good, im still planning on replacing the o2 sensor because the old one is probably covered in crud

 

 

that was almost 6 hours ago I think you can plug it back in now. It worked for me, did it work for you?

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ok well after i unplugged the battery i came up with a flu... :/

 

now that i got better i got the o2 sensor replaced with a dealer one

truck runs better but i unplugged the battery again to see if i can get an even better calibration :)

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sorry I didn't make that clear

 

 

 

if the o2 sensor has deposits on it blocking a proper reading it will not throw a code

the diagnostics screw only resets stored codes, resetting the ecu itsef required disconnecting the battery long enough for it to lose any sored information on how it made your engine run. Your engine runs differant and it needs to 'learn that'

 

I a similar probem when I did headers (hesitaed but did not stall)and full exhuast, a mechanic told me to change the o2 and unplug the battery for 4 hours. turn the key & hit the brakes before re-connecting (completes the drain) It ran rich for about an hour after I did that but no more hesitating and it felt allot better all around.

 

Yep! That fixed it, thanks! Feels a bit different but it pulls like a train now in the 2500-3500 range.

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