rydsno Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 I have a squealing noise which sounds like it from the front right corner. -It happens when the brakes are warm. -It seems to happen more when turning. (might be my imagination) -It happens when I have come to a stop and continues when I start rolling again until I gain some speed. -The noise sounds rotational. Repairs so far: -Cleaned and lubricated brakes and pad retainers multiple times. -De-glazed rotors. -Removed part of dust shields both sides. -Shop repacked wheel bearings both sides and replaced seals. -Today: removed pass. rear brake drum and cleaned and serviced shoe assembly. Noise is still there. I can't figure out what else could squeal. Any ideas?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Have you bled the brakes?? Cleaned and lubricated brakes and pad retainers multiple times. I'm assuming you include the slide pins... Are the rotors warped(feel a pulse in the pedal/braking)? Could one of your autolocking hubs be stuck and turning an unhappy CV?? Damn, you have done most of what I would have already. I'll think on it while I wait on an answer... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydsno Posted September 20, 2009 Author Share Posted September 20, 2009 I think the rotors are ok, slide pins were lubricated. The auto hub may be an idea, but the cv boot was done on that side and they didn't note anything about a bad joint. I'm wondering also about the possibility of crappy brake pads that just won't stop squealing or maybe the brake caliper not releasing fully? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
packie88 Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 how old are the brake pads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydsno Posted September 20, 2009 Author Share Posted September 20, 2009 Brake pads aren't very old, they have lots left on them. Just checked ther rears and they have at least 60% on the pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Warning chirpers on the pads bent into the rotors? Pads just plain worn down? Cheap semi-metallic pads with a big chunk of metalic in them? Pads have heat/stress cracks through them? Just throwing them out there as ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 belt tensioner? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 I'm wondering also about the possibility of crappy brake pads that just won't stop squealing or maybe the brake caliper not releasing fully? Kinda like others said also. Crappy break pads could be the culprit, and if the system is not properly bled, the calipers may not fully release/retract... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydsno Posted September 20, 2009 Author Share Posted September 20, 2009 This is interesting about the brakes being bled. I do seem to have a bit of pedal fade if braking hard. But why doesn't the caliper return if the brakes need to be bled? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydsno Posted September 21, 2009 Author Share Posted September 21, 2009 OK, bled the brakes, they feel a little better, but squeal still exists. I think now it's either new brake pads, or caliper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 This is interesting about the brakes being bled. I do seem to have a bit of pedal fade if braking hard. But why doesn't the caliper return if the brakes need to be bled? If you have air in the line, it can contribute to hard or fading braking. Compressed air in the line can cause pressure to remain in the system even when you are not stepping on the pedal, not allowing the calipers to retract. Sometimes it is minor, sometimes it can cause rotor glaze, noise, and even warped rotors from the heat of constant friction. Sounds like some new pads is the next step. Sorry, but I don't have a brand to recommend. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 Have you checked all the bushings, control arms, tie rods and so on ? Wondering if it's a suspension issue... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeV Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 Brake shims? (lil metal spacer that some people don't use...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydsno Posted September 21, 2009 Author Share Posted September 21, 2009 Just bought some new pads, going to install them and see what happens. I bought monroe pads, they were middle of the road for pricing. Pad prices seemed to start at around $30-40 for cheapos and up to $130 for top end raybestos. I bought the monroes for $70. I'll see what happens with these on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydsno Posted October 4, 2009 Author Share Posted October 4, 2009 (edited) I THINK I GOT IT!!!! So after doing everything possible that I could think of, from replacing brake pads, to brake bleeding, to new pads, etc. I noticed a few times that there was a mark on my front passenger rotor that goes across the surface, not in the direction of rotation. I kept thinking it was just a mark from coming to a stop and the brake pads were just leaving a little dust or something. Now, my problem was only occuring when the brakes were hot, that is why it was so hard to find. I went in to a local parts store and was talking to the guy about it, and he mentioned rotor runout. Hmmmmm. So I went back to the shop that charged me $400 to repack bearings and put in new seals(and didn't change the squeal a bit) and I asked the guy about rotor runout. He said I would feel it while driving. I told him to come have a look at the mark in my rotor. He looked at it and right away says "your rotor's cracked, I think?". Now things are starting to make sense, only happens when hot, rotational noise, etc. So I went and got a $40 dollar rotor, installed it in about an hour, with no special hub tool, just needle nose pliers, and NO MORE NOISE!!!! Now don't get me wrong, I am extremely happy to have found the noise, but if the shop would have just slowed down for two seconds and had a look, they would have noticed the crack in the rotors, and I would have $500 back in my pocket , and hours and hours of my time back. But the important thing here is that I can post it on NPORA and hopefully save someone a whole lot of grief!! I will replace the other rotor this week. Thanks for all the input everyone! Edited October 4, 2009 by rydsno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 Repairs so far: -Cleaned and lubricated brakes and pad retainers multiple times. -De-glazed rotors. -Removed part of dust shields both sides. -Shop repacked wheel bearings both sides and replaced seals. -Today: removed pass. rear brake drum and cleaned and serviced shoe assembly. Any ideas?? That should have been noticed during this step, not so much the bearing repack job as some places will do ONLY what you tell them to do and NOTHING else... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Glad to hear you found the problem. I'd push hard to get the money back. Honestly, what a lousy job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydsno Posted October 5, 2009 Author Share Posted October 5, 2009 That should have been noticed during this step, not so much the bearing repack job as some places will do ONLY what you tell them to do and NOTHING else... Ya, well the funny thing is, I didn't ask them to do the wheel bearings, I asked them to find the squeak. Glad to hear you found the problem. I'd push hard to get the money back. Honestly, what a lousy job. ^ Going back there this week, with rotor in hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 how did you go about getting at the mounting bolts for the y pipe. they are pretty high, and in a tight spot. I hope its the torque converter, but is there away to figure out if my transmission is good when i pull it out. Well, I'm glad you found the source, and before it came apart on you! I'm not defending the shop but remember, the crack may not have been really visible before. You have been driving on it for a bit... I'm not going to second guess what I was not involved with. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydsno Posted October 8, 2009 Author Share Posted October 8, 2009 Hold the presses, I may still have a squeal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johngg Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 I Think you got it! The crack wasn't visible when the shop did their work. After heating up, and cooling off a bunch of times, The crack will become MUCH more noticeable VERY quickly. Brakes get very hot. (I am surprised they last aslong as they do) Best of luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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