92Pathy808 Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 I was driving my pathfinder when all of a sudden it started to misfire in 5th gear upon acceleration. Dropped it into 4th and still misfire on acceleration. Same in 3rd, 2nd, and 1st until I came to a stop where I had to give it gas just to keep it at idle. Took off, still misfiring and got to 2nd when the car just died and coasted to the side of the road. Next day, changed out the fuel filter, started it up and began to idle fine after a few seconds of stumbling. Took it for a test drive when 3 minutes in the drive, started to stumble on acceleration in 3rd, downshifted to 2nd with same result until It died again, but this time all the electronics were out. Warning lights, interior and exterior lights. Checked the battery and found only 1.9 volts. Took battery out to charge and all of sudden had 12 volts when I checked it outside of the car. WTF??? Put battery back in after cleaning terminals on battery and on harness to check alternator. Car did start and idle fine, about a minute, just enough to check that alternator was charging battery when car started to stumble and misfire again to the point where it sounded it was about to die until I shut it off. Changed out the distributor cap, rotor, and plugs with the same results. I've included a video to show what it sounds like to get a better idea what I'm talking about (yes I know, I have an exhaust leak lol). What else can I check or what direction should I go in next? I'm maybe thinking timing or something more with ignition, am I right? Any suggestions is greatly appreciated as this is my daily driver and I need running ASAP. Thanks. Video: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VegasPathfinder Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 I was driving my pathfinder when all of a sudden it started to misfire in 5th gear upon acceleration. Dropped it into 4th and still misfire on acceleration. Same in 3rd, 2nd, and 1st until I came to a stop where I had to give it gas just to keep it at idle. Took off, still misfiring and got to 2nd when the car just died and coasted to the side of the road. Next day, changed out the fuel filter, started it up and began to idle fine after a few seconds of stumbling. Took it for a test drive when 3 minutes in the drive, started to stumble on acceleration in 3rd, downshifted to 2nd with same result until It died again, but this time all the electronics were out. Warning lights, interior and exterior lights. Checked the battery and found only 1.9 volts. Took battery out to charge and all of sudden had 12 volts when I checked it outside of the car. WTF??? Put battery back in after cleaning terminals on battery and on harness to check alternator. Car did start and idle fine, about a minute, just enough to check that alternator was charging battery when car started to stumble and misfire again to the point where it sounded it was about to die until I shut it off. Changed out the distributor cap, rotor, and plugs with the same results. I've included a video to show what it sounds like to get a better idea what I'm talking about (yes I know, I have an exhaust leak lol). What else can I check or what direction should I go in next? I'm maybe thinking timing or something more with ignition, am I right? Any suggestions is greatly appreciated as this is my daily driver and I need running ASAP. Thanks. Video: Mine ended up being the connector to the MAF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 Mine ended up being the connector to the MAF MAF connector tends to go away when the vehicle is reved up and it stumbled and dies at idle, but it could still be that or the MAF itself. I find that you say it starts real bad a few minutes after starting very interesting. Makes it sound like something that happens when the vehicle reaches operating temperature and the ECU goes into closed loop which is usually about 3-5 minutes after the vehicle is started cold. Once it is warmed up and driven around, turned off and restarted, it will go into closed loop sooner. This makes me think it is some sensor, harness or input to the ECU that is not reading properly, or the ECU itself has failed which I think is less likely. Is there any error codes stored in the ECU? If the timing had jumped, it would be coughing , hard to start and runing rough/misfiring all the time, not just a few minutes after start up. Same with the position sensor in the distributor, it would be bad at start up, not after a few minutes. The battery thing doesnt seem to add up though, I think it is a seperate issue or you were just reading alternator output os something at 1.9 volts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 (edited) I'd be willing to bet that its a BAD mass air flow sensor. does the engine fall on its face when you try to accelerate? i just had the EXACT same problem with a buddies 4runner, changed the MAF sensor and walla.. its all goo now. Edited September 2, 2009 by 87pathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Pathy808 Posted September 2, 2009 Author Share Posted September 2, 2009 I'd be willing to bet that its a BAD mass air flow sensor. does the engine fall on its face when you try to accelerate? i just had the EXACT same problem with a buddies 4runner, changed the MAF sensor and walla.. its all goo now. When it was running and I was able to drive it, to would stumble real bad when trying to accelerate until the point where I had to downshift gears until it just died. How can I go about testing the MAF short replacing it with a new one? I know they are pricey and I don't have access to a known good one. Alkorahil - I do think also the battery thing was something separate but now seems to be resolved but I'm keeping an eye on it and will investigate once I figure out this misfire thing. I haven't checked the codes yet but will do so hopefully later on today after work. Do you think it might be the fuel pressure regulator? How can I test it? Thanks for all your guys suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 When it was running and I was able to drive it, to would stumble real bad when trying to accelerate until the point where I had to downshift gears until it just died. How can I go about testing the MAF short replacing it with a new one? I know they are pricey and I don't have access to a known good one. Alkorahil - I do think also the battery thing was something separate but now seems to be resolved but I'm keeping an eye on it and will investigate once I figure out this misfire thing. I haven't checked the codes yet but will do so hopefully later on today after work. Do you think it might be the fuel pressure regulator? How can I test it? Thanks for all your guys suggestions. there really isn't a good way to test them. You can put it on an OHM meter but its not a 100% test. If its all over the place, it might be OK.. If it gives a steady reading its NFG. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeV Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 Mine was the oxygen sensor freakin' could barely keep it running... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 Mine was the oxygen sensor freakin'could barely keep it running... Yep, thats was what I was saying, after the ECU goes into closed loop it starts reading the O2 sensor input and if the sensor is bad or the wiring it messed up the vehicle will start to run very rough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 there really isn't a good way to test them. You can put it on an OHM meter but its not a 100% test. If its all over the place, it might be OK.. If it gives a steady reading its NFG. I concour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95PATHMAKER Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 I concour. If I was a betting man I'd say it's one or more of the sensors that is causing this problem. You should try cleaning your MAF sensor, throttle position sensor, and EGR valve... All will cause your engine to idle rough and be sluggish, and if it doesn't change anything worst case scenario you'll be out $5-10 and you'll have clean sensors... or find someone else with a WD21 and just switch out sensors until you find the problem... Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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