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High Output Alternator


new4x4r
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the cut-in rpm is the speed at which the alternator starts taking from the battery. that means it can also start charging. so basically, the cut-in speed is that when the alternator begins to charge the battery(s).

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what does this "cut-in" mean exactly?

A higher cut-in will reqire higer rpm or a smaller pulley to produce sufficent power.

Mean green boasts their 180a puts out 180 @ 2k RPM so I would assume a lower cut-in since most altys get their rating from a 3k-4k speed

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so wouldnt idle amperage be more of a selling point than maximum amperage?

that's what I was wondering as well but if you follow the graph on the ones being offered Idle amerage is only about 60-80. and most the time when you are using all your accesories your moving right?...

I agree "idle amperage" would seem more realiistic...

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I suppose not, although, if you got stuck and needed to use a winch to pull yourself out, and had the taurus upgrade (high speed connected), and it was at night so you need all your extra lighting on....that might add up to 60-80amps.

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so wouldnt idle amperage be more of a selling point than maximum amperage?

 

 

you can always just work the throttle to increase rpm, if you're in a idle situation. or, you could get an idle-up controller which electronically raises and holds your idle. max amperage is a better selling point than idle amperage, in the same way that max horsepower is better than idle horsepower.

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I suppose not, although, if you got stuck and needed to use a winch to pull yourself out, and had the taurus upgrade (high speed connected), and it was at night so you need all your extra lighting on....that might add up to 60-80amps.

More than that. you wanna idle up or run off battery only when whinching.

 

you can always just work the throttle to increase rpm, if you're in a idle situation. or, you could get an idle-up controller which electronically raises and holds your idle. max amperage is a better selling point than idle amperage, in the same way that max horsepower is better than idle horsepower.
An idle controller would be a kick ass modification. :aok:

all good points... if you have a cruise thottle cam you can hook it up to an old bicycle shifter and stick it on your t-case lever and there's your Idle up control.

Edited by MY1PATH
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all good points... if you have a cruise thottle cam you can hook it up to an old bicycle shifter and stick it on your t-case lever and there's your Idle up control.

 

Is the cruise control on the R50 controlled by a cam? :scratchhead:

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Is the cruise control on the R50 controlled by a cam? :scratchhead:

 

 

what he means is the cam that's on the throttle body, that the throttle cable (and cruise control cable) is attached to. you would only find the part on a cruise control-equipped vehicle, but you could mount directly to the throttle cable cam.

 

if you have The Battery to run pure battery while winching, then that's the best idea. the downside is that you could run your battery down to the point where you can't start your car. if you keep the vehicle running, you may burn up your alternator (not that probable), but at least you know you can drive away if you manage to unstuck yourself or whomever you're helping.

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There are quite a few really simple ways to bump up the idle on command in the R50s. One way that would be super easy is using an input on the ECU that runs to a sensor on our power steering racks. You might have noticed that if you try and steer while standing still that the idle gets bumped up to help keep the power steering pump from bogging the engine down. You could use this input to just wire in a switch for a "high idle" but it probably won't raise the idle enough to get the alternator to its max output.

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what he means is the cam that's on the throttle body, that the throttle cable (and cruise control cable) is attached to. you would only find the part on a cruise control-equipped vehicle, but you could mount directly to the throttle cable cam.

 

if you have The Battery to run pure battery while winching, then that's the best idea. the downside is that you could run your battery down to the point where you can't start your car. if you keep the vehicle running, you may burn up your alternator (not that probable), but at least you know you can drive away if you manage to unstuck yourself or whomever you're helping.

 

Thanks for clearing that up. :aok:

 

My guess is a secondary battery would be far more ideal. Nevertheless, a high output alty just makes sense. :D

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