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Thermostat & Fan Clutch


89VG30
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The first fan clutch I replaced in my '89 was at about 70K miles and I purchased one

that had a lifetime warranty so I got a free one at about 140K, 210K, and 280K, but the one

at 280K had a higher temp setting than previous clutches and combined with the higher

temp thermostat (170 farenheit 76.5 celsius) that nissan now specifies for my '89, I have

at least one cracked head, (water droplets and chocolate milk looking oil in the oil filler cap).

My vehicle came with a 155 degree farenheit (68 celsius) thermostat and mating fan clutch

and had run perfect with that combo. I don't think it would do any good to have a 155 t-stat

with a fan clutch that doesn't start pulling air thru the radiator till the air temp hits 190, so what

I would like to do is find a good 155 degree t-stat and modify the copper thermal coil on a new

fan clutch to match. Any help in locating a 155 t-stat for my '89VG30i would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, 89VG30

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i doubt it was the fact you had a 170 degree t-stat that warped your head. most people run 170 or 180 and are fine as long as the cooling system is working properly. the head wouldnt crack at that temperature range anyways.

 

if your head is cracked, dont you think you should replace that too btw?

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155 was not origianl for the tbi. the VG engine does not reach full efficiency untill 180. a 170 & 175 are used to form a thermal equilibrium @ 180. 165 was an option for hotter climates and 180 was an option for colder climates. The 300zx guys that think they're getting more power by over cooling their engning ran 160's but 155 is just rediculous.

 

I run a 175 in my 89 VG30i, thats what the old one was(had nissan factory stamp on it) and so thats what I put back in.

 

EDIT:

More food for thought; I beilve the chevy 350 in LS and LT form found their greatest efficiency @ an equilibrium of 200-210 acheived by running a 180 deg thermostat.

Edited by MY1PATH
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I haveat least one cracked head, (water droplets and chocolate milk looking oil in the oil filler cap).

 

If so, I'd say that the thermostat/fan clutch is the least of the immediate concerns. Who's to say it isn't just a head gasket? That is far more common and at 280k, understandable... :shrug:

 

MY1PATH stated good information.

 

B

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If so, I'd say that the thermostat/fan clutch is the least of the immediate concerns. Who's to say it isn't just a head gasket? That is far more common and at 280k, understandable... :shrug:

 

MY1PATH stated good information.

 

B

I'm fairly sure it's a cracked head because I had gotten into stop and go traffic for about 8 miles,

(about 1 hour) and had finally noticed the temp gauge pegged, pulled into a car wash with the engine

making terribly awful sounds and waited about another hour to put water in it. This was with a new fan clutch

from O'reilly's (Kool Clutch). I noticed later with the rad full of water, the temp gauge indicating overheating,

that the fan was only doing about 15 rpm and I showed the guy at the parts store that I could stop the fan with my

finger and spin the fan in the opposite direction it should have been going. Shouldn't the fan clutch be engaged

with water that hot flowing thru the rad and the air temp so high? :unsure: At the present time I'm collecting parts to rebuild the engine.

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i doubt it was the fact you had a 170 degree t-stat that warped your head. most people run 170 or 180 and are fine as long as the cooling system is working properly. the head wouldnt crack at that temperature range anyways.

 

if your head is cracked, dont you think you should replace that too btw?

Most definitly getting rebuilt heads. :jig: and I may have to live with a 170 t-stat.

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honestly 170 should be fine.

 

im in Az and my needle is a bit before where the halfway mark is even in 110 degree weather (except for right now, but I that has been a problem only since I redid my heads so I know there is something else wrong)

 

instead of getting a new fan clutch you could do the taurus fan mod, that will definitely keep it cooler. probably cost about the same too.

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honestly 170 should be fine.

 

im in Az and my needle is a bit before where the halfway mark is even in 110 degree weather (except for right now, but I that has been a problem only since I redid my heads so I know there is something else wrong)

 

instead of getting a new fan clutch you could do the taurus fan mod, that will definitely keep it cooler. probably cost about the same too.

When my path was new my needle ran between 1/4-1/3, now it runs like yours. I have a Haynes manual

that recommends the 155 t-stat. Don't know about the taurus mod but will check into it. Thanks for your input

and everyone else's!

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