davidho Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 (edited) So it started by I had to turn key few times and then it would crank over and start right up. Its a manual 1991 btw. Then last night I tried turning key nothing would happen kept tring and tring but starter wouldn't go. So then I hooked up some jumper cables then starts. I do some running around today in the morning started first try every time. Then I go to wal-mart get in it and nothing wouldn't start. Called my girlfriend she came out and gave me a jump. Ampmeter gauge reads at 12 and when it starts and running its at 14. I can hear a click first time I turn key. I just bought this thing less than month ago and i have found 3 toggle switches on the dash all together. 2 are right beside each other and then i discovered the other one when i tried manually pushing in the switch behind the clutch pedal not sure what the switches are for. This sound like a start problem or something inbetween (hopefully not some shaddy wiring job involving these switches)? I've popped started few times now today to get around, in 2nd gear of course. Any comments would be really appreciated dont wanna speed 100 bucks on starter and that not be the problem. Edited June 11, 2009 by davidho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 dead battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Check this out. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22821 6th topic below yours... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Possibilities- Bad Battery Bad Alternator Too much pull on battery, not big enough alternator Pull on battery while car is off I don't think it would be the starter though......Have you checked the battery voltage while the car is off, not being jumped, and fails to start? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 (edited) when your starter is going out its sort of intermittent my guess is it is junk and needs to be replaced. Can you hear the clicking noise when you turn the key? like one click then its over. if so then its 90% chance its your starter. i dont think its your ignition if it started up before after it had quit working. Same thing happened to mine and it was my starter it did it on my last one too. try hitting the starter might help but i still thin kthats the problem Edited June 11, 2009 by edicer2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidho Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 Guess I need to get me a volt meter, while I was at wal-mart I drove around back to auto tire part and had them test the battery and they said it wasn't bad. I took it for a spin, pulled up to the street shut it down and then turned the key and it started up. Dude just put an alternator on it i have the receipt. thanks for the replies i'll keep you updated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westslope Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 I'll second the purchase of a volt-meter. I've been using a simple battery-operated voltmeter that is no bigger than a wallet for about 15 years now primarily for testing the deep cycle marine batteries I use to power an electric motor. Works equally well for getting a quick handle on the state of the battery. Multi-feature-laden trickle chargers are ideal for deep-cycle marine batteries (I run one in the pathfinder) and probably not a bad way to re-charge a regular battery. BTW marine deep-cycle 12v batteries have thicker walls which I presume are less vulnerable to the pounding that off-road travel can occasionally deliver. Handy for running the radio, CD player (on occasion), using the lights, etc. They cost more but they appear to last longer. Plenty of cranking amps for my engine. I retired one after about 6 years of use last summer. Prior to vehicle use, I powered the electric motor for a few seasons. I use Trojan. (The batteries you clowns. ) Pricier. Solid reputation and a great experience so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 pay attention to where you test the battery. If you are not starting and you throw jumper cables on it and it starts, that says battery UNLESS... you test the posts and it reads fine. Test on the posts under load (cranking) and make sure there isn't dramatic voltage drop. IF you have a bad conection between the posts and the clamps, you will have trouble starting but when you throw the jumpers on, you are clamping on the clamps, not the posts so you bypass teh possible fault location. IF you check the voltage on the posts as stated above, also test on the clamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westslope Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 (edited) Interesting k9sar. I tested our battery the other day and noticed that I wasn't getting the same voltage readings when I contacted the outside clamp on the positive post. Cleaned up the post and clamp. BTW, it looked fine as I thoroughly cleaned, scraped and emergy-clothed, then covered with vaseline last summer. Now I get full voltage readings from both the post and the clamp. Edited June 14, 2009 by westslope Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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