Crispyc Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 (edited) I have a 91 Pathfinder. When driving on roads that slope to the right my Pathy pulls to the right. If the road slopes to the left the Pathy pulls to the left. It has been doing this for several months now. I have taken it in for alignments several times. Shocks, springs, torsion bars: 2 years old steering gear: 4 months old center link, tie rods, idler arm, upper and lower ball joints: 2 months old Any ideas on what to look at now? Edited April 11, 2009 by Crispyc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Does it pull or simply "veer"... when driving on a decent slope, gravity WILL tend to "slide" you downhill... so you have to correct It's why high-speed turns in NASCAR are sloped - otherwise they'd simply run off the track Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crispyc Posted April 11, 2009 Author Share Posted April 11, 2009 Even if I am going up hill on pavement I must turn the wheel into the hill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91PathSE Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Gravity.......Its a killer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glenn Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Think of problem with steering likage and worn bushings/ pins.Put Pathy up on lift , pull on front wheels, if there's a lot of play from in - out -in then somethings probably worn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 (edited) Like others said, a vehicle wants to follow the road if you think it is more than the normal... How 'bout yer ball joints? Ride height? Lifted WD21 IFS will have a reduced castor IIRC because the LCA is moving farther away from the strut rod thus the strut rod pulls the LCA closer to the lower limit of the castor angle. castor is what makes the vehicle want to return to straight. on the wd21 mechanics say you cannot change it so if its outa spec they usually ignore it however if it is low it can be increased... I haven't figured out a relyable way to decrease it and in almost any case it would not need to anyway. edit; also if your strut rod bushings are shot or worn thin it will reduce your castor. Edited April 11, 2009 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Check the compression rod bushings and mounts, as well as the upper and lower control arm bushings. Something has some slack in it somewhere, I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Check the compression rod bushings and mounts, as well as the upper and lower control arm bushings. Something has some slack in it somewhere, I think. Agreed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crispyc Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 Is there a "best way" to punch out the upper and lower control arm bushings or do I just use whatever "make shift" tool that will work? Also for putting the new ones in, same question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 If you have access to a hydraulic press, I'd use that. Otherwise, best bet is to burn them out with a propane torch (which is smoky and messy). Those old stock bushings have a tendency to weld themselves to the UCA/LCA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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