What to do?

[TXPower]

First off, thanks for this site to the owner and moderators of this forum, awesome information at the fingertips.............

 

I bought a 93 XE V6, 5sp 4X4 with 289,000 miles on it last week for $900.00. Have no idea what if any major repairs the motor has had internally. It runs really descent, the tranny grinds going from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, from searching archives here on this site..........normal for these things. A tranny shop I trust says $800.00 worst case scenario to rebuild the tranny.

 

The motor smokes a bit at cold startup and sometimes at take-off from a dead stop. But only at those times. The power seams appropriate for a V6 I guess, really do not know what to expect from it since I have always been a Small Block Chevy person. I can buy a rebuilt longblock for it locally for $1450.00. I guess re-working the head would be considerably cheaper have not checked.

 

I have significant experience with American made engines and know my way around the toolbox etc.

 

Now my questions:

 

In ya'lls experience is there anyway to determine if the smoke is blow by in the valve seats, seals etc as opposed to say piston rings? In otherwords, other than tearing it apart to see, is there a way that reasonably can narrow the failing parts without an autopsy?

 

I have always been told that a manual tranny rebuild is do-able by do-it-yourselfers with the right manual, tools, patience and attention to detail. I wonder though, are there gonna be so many speacial service tools needed that the cost of buying will equal paying to have it done?

 

I have the FSM, a good place to work, time and patience but want the expert opinions available here, what do ya'll think?

 

TXPower

[Slick]

well, first off,s lap whoever told you an engine is $1450. second, yes, you can check otu what tools you'd need in the FSM for a tranny rebuild. it's doable (but i wouldn't try it myself lol)......

first off, check your compression... sounds like a suspect head gasket to me (mini me barely smoked, and only a puff at start up, and hers was shot), but check compression, also for leaks, how is your exhausts condition? how does the truck RUN? bad idle, good idle, stady even idle, coolant disappearing? overheating? is the check engine light on? have you run codes if it is? i need MORE info

Edited December 11, 2008 by Slick

[TXPower]

well, first off,s lap whoever told you an engine is $1450. second, yes, you can check otu what tools you'd need in the FSM for a tranny rebuild. it's doable (but i wouldn't try it myself lol)......

first off, check your compression... sounds like a suspect head gasket to me (mini me barely smoked, and only a puff at start up, and hers was shot), but check compression, also for leaks, how is your exhausts condition? how does the truck RUN? bad idle, good idle, stady even idle, coolant disappearing? overheating? is the check engine light on? have you run codes if it is? i need MORE info

 

It's a reputable rebuilder in the Dallas Metroplex, why sound too cheap or what?

 

OK, I thought the tranny might be a stretch.

 

Tell me what to look for on the exhaust so I can look with an educated eye, I mean, besides I guess large holes or cracks, which i don't think there are because I can't hear any leaks, what am I looking for in your experience?

 

The truck runs pretty good, good idle at startup, after warm and after driven. I have not looked at the coolant level very closely yet, will do next.

 

It does not appear to be overheating, but I am unsure to be honest because the needle on the gauge bounces and vibrates so I don't know if it's working. it Bounces and vibrates around a quarter off the C cold mark. Where should it be, just left of the center point?

 

No check engine lights, assuming the light indicator is operational. I drove it about 80 miles from where I bought it reaching highway speeds and idling at stop lights and such so I ran the gamut of normal operation. Besides having a bunch of rattles and some drivetrain noise, probably manual tranny and/or transfer case, the vehicle seems to run well.

 

Thx,

 

TXPower

[Slick]

ok, i would start with the coolant.. and a functional temp gauge is VITAL to the life of a pathy. check to see if the truck is losing coolant (and i don't mean by a puddle on the gorund lol)...... then, i would do a compression check...... after that.... post up your results and we'll go from there. a compression test will help narrow things down a bit.

as for the $1450. well, you can buy a complete running engine for around $400-600, or grab a full gasket set from parts dinasaur for $85 and do it yourself. IF, it need to be "rebuilt" so to speak.

[TXPower]

ok, i would start with the coolant.. and a functional temp gauge is VITAL to the life of a pathy. check to see if the truck is losing coolant (and i don't mean by a puddle on the gorund lol)...... then, i would do a compression check...... after that.... post up your results and we'll go from there. a compression test will help narrow things down a bit.

as for the $1450. well, you can buy a complete running engine for around $400-600, or grab a full gasket set from parts dinasaur for $85 and do it yourself. IF, it need to be "rebuilt" so to speak.

 

Ok, I'll do those things and check back with you. As far as checking to see if it's loosing coolant, besides filling and running, what should I do, a pressure check with one of those things that connects to the radiator cap and pressurizes?

 

As far as buying a used engine for $400-$600, how do I know what I'm getting is any better than what I got now?

 

Thx,

 

TXPower

[Kittamaru]

These engines are bastardized sons of hell to kill

[TXPower]

These engines are bastardized sons of hell to kill

 

 

LOL!

 

TXPower

[k9sar]

indicators of blowby or bad seals are;

 

foamy oil

light brown oil (contains really really tiny bubbles)

puff of blue smoke from exhaust upon decelleration

puff of blue smoke from exhaust on accelleration

oil in breather hoses or air filter

 

If any/all of these occur, you can narrow down where the problem may be.

 

Definately do a compression test. Check the pressure then dump about a teaspoon of oil into the plug hole and test again.

 

 

My truck (a 95) barely gets off the cold mark even when sitting in traffic jams. I've replaced the temp sensor on the thermo housing and there was no change. Maybe she's just running that cool

 

and stop saying ya'll

[Indigent]

Also, take a receipt or some other piece of paper and place it near the end of the exhaust pipe so that it would be able to cover the end of the pipe. Make sure you hold on to it really good. If the paper gets sucked back into the tailpipe, the engine is breathing its exhaust back in. That could indicate some valve issues or maybe timing belt problems.

 

hope this helps,

 

indigent.

[TXPower]

indicators of blowby or bad seals are;

 

foamy oil

light brown oil (contains really really tiny bubbles)

puff of blue smoke from exhaust upon decelleration

puff of blue smoke from exhaust on accelleration

oil in breather hoses or air filter

 

If any/all of these occur, you can narrow down where the problem may be.

 

Definately do a compression test. Check the pressure then dump about a teaspoon of oil into the plug hole and test again.

My truck (a 95) barely gets off the cold mark even when sitting in traffic jams. I've replaced the temp sensor on the thermo housing and there was no change. Maybe she's just running that cool

 

and stop saying ya'll

 

 

 

How bout "you guys"?

 

TXPower

[Precise1]

Dudes will work (west coast)

 

These engines are bastardized sons of hell to kill

This really is true. Change the oil, timing belt and don't overheat or over rev it and 250k-300k is normal life span. Some guy has one with 510k in it...

 

As far as buying a used engine for $400-$600, how do I know what I'm getting is any better than what I got now?

You talk to someone like me who has a pathy in the driveway that is going to be parted out (frame damage). The motor has 132k on it and runs like a top. I know you are far away, but you get my point; NPORA is world wide, I bet there are members near you (relatively anyway). Another good way is look for one with a blown auto tranny, they are expensive to rebuild and iffy, so they can be had cheap. You can start it, test it etc then take it home and strip it, swap motors and wind up with all sorts of spare parts (1/2 shafts, starter, alternator, injectors, sensors, etc), sell what you don't want here in the classifieds (get some $ back) and have the carcass hauled away.

 

Oh, there is a TSB about the manual tranny. The fill port is insufficiently low so sometimes some of the bearings are oil starved. If you haven't, change the oil; GL4 only and you want to put in 5.1 qts (liters?). More won't hurt, but don't go nuts. Either tilt the truck heavily to one side, or pull the shifter and pour the oil straight in to do the overfill. This is important. Lucas oil stabilizer is a good idea and may help with the grind...

 

 

B

[TXPower]

OK dudes, I messed with the pathy a bit today and observed that the radiator, hoses and hard plastic crossover pipe appear fairly new. During the sale the previous owner claimed he had some head work done on it about 6 months ago, what kind of head work, who knows, but those new items may support what he said. The radiator and over-flow were full as a tick, I have run it quite a bit and haven't added a drop.

 

I also checked the oil while cold, it was thick, and black. It was not brown or milky. If in fact there is coolant entering the oil I can't tell. When I say thick I mean it was unusually thick like maybe the previous owner never changed the oil or perhaps due to low oil pressure or something else maybe he was using an additive of some sort or really thick oil...........................who knows. I will compression check it ASAP.

 

I searched the Dallas/FT. Worth Craigslist today and found a guy advertising a VG30DE for $500.00 he claims is in really good condition. And another guy with a VG30E for $750 the picture shows the auto tranny and transfer case attached to the motor his add is unclear, but if it doesn't include the tranny and transfer, $750 seems high. I know it depends on the condition of the stuff but do the prices seem in the ballpark or too high.

 

I'll report back when I have more.

 

thx,

 

TXPower

[Slick]

$750 is a steal if the trans & t case are attached. $500 if not...... (on the VG30E)

[TXPower]

$750 is a steal if the trans & t case are attached. $500 if not...... (on the VG30E)

 

 

I called the number listed on the add and spoke to the rep, he's an importer. The price, $750, is for the motor only, which is an import from Japan. He claims the motor has a max 55,000 miles on it and was removed, sold and shipped here due to Japan's emission laws. He warranties the motor also. Is 750 a good deal in that case?

 

Thx,

 

TXPower

[adamzan]

I would say so. Check it out and run it first though.

[Slick]

I called the number listed on the add and spoke to the rep, he's an importer. The price, $750, is for the motor only, which is an import from Japan. He claims the motor has a max 55,000 miles on it and was removed, sold and shipped here due to Japan's emission laws. He warranties the motor also. Is 750 a good deal in that case?

 

Thx,

 

TXPower

more than likely a JDm motor. just make SURE that motor is NOT out of a maxima....... i think thomas had that problem when he bought his JDM...... can you see the engine BEFORE purchase?

[Precise1]

$750 for a motor with less then 60k on it? If it is legit, then yes, I'd say it is worth it...

 

B

[k9sar]

there is some goofy law in Japan where they have to replace the motor after some unreasonably low number of miles. Then they get freighted over here to the US and sold.

[TXPower]

more than likely a JDm motor. just make SURE that motor is NOT out of a maxima....... i think thomas had that problem when he bought his JDM...... can you see the engine BEFORE purchase?

 

 

How do I make sure it's not out of a Maxima, is it like Chevrolet engines, is there a sequence of numbers and letter somewhere on the block I can check to see what the original application was? I will definitely look it over real good before anything.

 

Thx,

 

TXPower

[TXPower]

How do I make sure it's not out of a Maxima, is it like Chevrolet engines, is there a sequence of numbers and letter somewhere on the block I can check to see what the original application was? I will definitely look it over real good before anything.

 

Thx,

 

TXPower

 

 

Anyone.......................how do I check and make sure it's not a maxima engine?

 

Thx,

 

TXPower

[5523Pathfinder]

The intake mainfold is a dead giveaway. Some actually said Maxima on the motors. If it has manifolds attached, it shoudl be a dead giveaway. IF not, the oil pan is different, very different. Just take a good look at your motor and compare.

[Precise1]

I believe the dip stick tube was in a different place also. Was it Casey T who had this issue?? (perhaps I will have time to search for it later)

 

B

[TXPower]

The intake mainfold is a dead giveaway. Some actually said Maxima on the motors. If it has manifolds attached, it shoudl be a dead giveaway. IF not, the oil pan is different, very different. Just take a good look at your motor and compare.

 

If this link will open, could ya'll look at the pics and maybe tell me if you think this is the truck/pathy motor?

 

Thx,

 

TX

 

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/954307309.html

[Simon]

Truck motor for sure. The clutch fan gives it away.

[TXPower]

Truck motor for sure. The clutch fan gives it away.

 

Thank you sir, now I'll go offer him less than what he's asking. times are tuff folks is broke these days...............

 

TX