racerdave Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 I have a 91, XE, 4 wheel drive, automatic, no power options, AC, and ABS. Bought a 95 front and rear diff with LSD, disk brakes, and 4.6 gears. The brake master that I had was leaking, so I bought a new one, and I got the one for 4 wheel disk brakes since I was upgrading to rear disk brakes. NON ABS ( I didn’t think I had ABS). When I was removing the rear end, I noticed a sensor in the input shaft of the differential :-\ Installed the new rear end and it doesn’t have the provision for that sensor. I installed the new master cylinder and bled the brakes, took it for a test drive. The ABS light came on (I didn’t know I had ABS until then), I tested out the brakes, 25mph sudden stop, 60mph sudden stop, and 45mph made sure they all lock up if I slam on the brakes. Everything works fine except the rear disks are dragging a little (muddy and a little rusty), so im going to take them apart and clean/grease them today to see if they are just sticking. The rotors and pads will be replaced soon. What is the difference between a ABS and non ABS master cylinder? What does the sensor in the rear end do? (also what is it called?) Do I need to swap input shaft covers in order to retain that sensor? What is the easiest way to deal with all this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 The sensor on the rear diff is a shaft speed sensor. This is supplied to the ABS control unit and will activate your Rear ABS. Our trucks do not have 4 Wheel ABS(well, the newer ones do). anyway, if you cant swap the sensor over, then either you will have to live with no ABS, or go get a LSD with ABS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 (edited) I don't know about the other stuff but the sensor in the back monitors your rotation speed compared to the front wheels, under braking conditions it the sesnor finds the rear moving slower thant the front (ie about to lock up or locked) it will apply more braking to the front untill all 4 wheels are rotating the same speed again (but not locked up) congrats on going disc, thats something I wanna do 1 day. Edited November 13, 2008 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 oops... sorry. when I read the topic I thought it was a thread about Pezzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 I don't know about the other stuff but the sensor in the back monitors your rotation speed compared to the front wheels, under braking conditions it the sesnor finds the rear moving slower thant the front (ie about to lock up or locked) it will apply more braking to the front untill all 4 wheels are rotating the same speed again (but not locked up) congrats on going disc, thats something I wanna do 1 day. Well, being we only run rear ABS in the older WD21's, there is no sensor for the front wheels. The sensor only watches the rear end and watched for excessive spin, panic braking, ect, when not in 4wd. Othwise, yes thats pretty much how abs work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 oops... sorry. when I read the topic I thought it was a thread about Pezzy Keep it in the PoHo, not here please.... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerdave Posted November 14, 2008 Author Share Posted November 14, 2008 Cool, thanks for letting me know what it does. I can live without ABS, I just have to unplug the light in my dash so its not so annoying... I think whenever I take the rear end out again I will just swap the covers, or just pick up another rear with LSD and ABS... They are not very expensive anyhow.. When I looked at the brakes today I found that it wasnt the caliper that was dragging, it was the ebrake shoes, my drivers side was almost locked up! Made it nice and hot on the drive home from work today... Anyway, I took it all apart and cleaned it up with brake cleaner, lots of mud and dust in there. Going to assemble everything tomorrow and see if it solves my problem. If so, I will have a good running daily driver! At least for now... :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 My pinion sensor has been shot for 4 years now, brakes work just fine, just no ABS. Which, I'm actually happier with anyway. The ABS on the Honda I used to have almost made me rear end someone on dry pavement. I would rather pump the brakes myself if needed than to have the vehicle think I need to when I don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerdave Posted November 15, 2008 Author Share Posted November 15, 2008 Well after taking apart the rear break that was sticking and adjusting the e-brake (I couldnt even budge the rotor to take it off the Ebrake was so tight) I cleaned everything and put it all back together and the caliper seems to be sticking still... Anyone have this issue? Do the rear calipers have issues I should know about? What is the easiest way to fix my problem, buy a new caliper or rebuild kit? Or is there a way to break free the sticky caliper so it works again? I am going to try pushing the piston in all the way, and then put it back together and see if it sticks still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 Slide pins, just like the front calipers? There is a write up on it somewhere, but basically you remove the dust boots and the slide pins. clean them well and sand/polish them smooth if there is any rust and corrosion. Do the same to the hole they slide in. Lube vigorously and reassemble. This is where I would start (fixes things 75% of the time) unless you are certain you have a sticking piston. If so, there must be a rebuild kit available, calipers are quite simple. Do you have rust/corrosion on the piston? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerdave Posted November 16, 2008 Author Share Posted November 16, 2008 Slide pins, just like the front calipers? There is a write up on it somewhere, but basically you remove the dust boots and the slide pins. clean them well and sand/polish them smooth if there is any rust and corrosion. Do the same to the hole they slide in. Lube vigorously and reassemble. This is where I would start (fixes things 75% of the time) unless you are certain you have a sticking piston. If so, there must be a rebuild kit available, calipers are quite simple. Do you have rust/corrosion on the piston? B When I took off the caliper, the slide pins looked great, all lubed up and came off and went back on with no issues. The piston was packed full of mud and is rusty on the inside... I am going to go search for a rebuild kit and see what I can do. Thanks for all the advice thus far... Im getting tired of working on it so I told myself I would relax this weekend and save it for Monday. Will post up results as soon as I get to tearing it apart :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Ok, it's not the slide pins... The piston was packed full of mud and is rusty on the inside... I am going to go search for a rebuild kit and see what I can do. Thanks for all the advice thus far... Im getting tired of working on it so I told myself I would relax this weekend and save it for Monday. The hollow of the piston means nothing. The mating surfaces do. Is there rust/corrosion on the OD of the piston where it meets the caliper? That could hang it up... One long shot that I have heard of, your brake flex lines could be compromised. If one 'balloons' under the pressure of braking, it may still keep vestige pressure on the piston when the petal is released. PSI in the line equates to much more force on the piston. Try bleeding them again? If you do have to disassemble/reassemble the caliper, remember to refrigerate the piston. The difference in thermal expansion can make it much easier to install. I was doing this with a tranny bearing set today. Bake at 250 degrees for 5 minutes... As for the save it for later, yeah, I agree, but I still have so much work lined up, I'll be wrenching into next year!! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerdave Posted November 23, 2008 Author Share Posted November 23, 2008 Ok, it's not the slide pins...The hollow of the piston means nothing. The mating surfaces do. Is there rust/corrosion on the OD of the piston where it meets the caliper? That could hang it up... One long shot that I have heard of, your brake flex lines could be compromised. If one 'balloons' under the pressure of braking, it may still keep vestige pressure on the piston when the petal is released. PSI in the line equates to much more force on the piston. Try bleeding them again? If you do have to disassemble/reassemble the caliper, remember to refrigerate the piston. The difference in thermal expansion can make it much easier to install. I was doing this with a tranny bearing set today. Bake at 250 degrees for 5 minutes... As for the save it for later, yeah, I agree, but I still have so much work lined up, I'll be wrenching into next year!! B I went to the parts store and bought a brand new caliper for 40$, the caliper I had was done, the inside was all gross when I took it apart, the fluid had dirt in it and it was like sludge. I replaced it and its great now! I pulled the ABS light bulb out so its not so annoying at night :-) She is running great. Im getting about 17mpg. Is that good for a motor with 111k on it? Im not being easy on it, it rained yesterday and took it on the onramp to the freeway to see how well the stock LSD works. Locked up nice, good stability around a corner :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 She is running great. Im getting about 17mpg. Is that good for a motor with 111k on it? Im not being easy on it, it rained yesterday and took it on the onramp to the freeway to see how well the stock LSD works. Locked up nice, good stability around a corner :-) 17mpg is not bad for these gas pigs, unfortunately... There are some exceptions depending on year, condition, driving, but as an average, that's about what to expect. LOL about the LSD. In my manual, I had to be careful in the rain, turning in 1-2 gear, lest I just pivot. With my new automagic it doesn't seem to be as touchy, but winter has just started so I'll have a better understanding in a few months. My guess is that the auto tranny drive train has more lag/less snap to it. At least, that's how it feels... A new caliper for $40?? That seems remarkably cheap. Where did you get it? I'm glad you got the trouble sorted out easily and cheaply. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerdave Posted November 25, 2008 Author Share Posted November 25, 2008 17mpg is not bad for these gas pigs, unfortunately... There are some exceptions depending on year, condition, driving, but as an average, that's about what to expect. LOL about the LSD. In my manual, I had to be careful in the rain, turning in 1-2 gear, lest I just pivot. With my new automagic it doesn't seem to be as touchy, but winter has just started so I'll have a better understanding in a few months. My guess is that the auto tranny drive train has more lag/less snap to it. At least, that's how it feels... A new caliper for $40?? That seems remarkably cheap. Where did you get it? I'm glad you got the trouble sorted out easily and cheaply. B I can live with 17mpg. I have not been easy on it either, just driving to work and back, only twice on the interstate. I hope to get 20mpg out of it on the highway, its just a winter vehicle and camping machine. Yeah I had to get on it around the corner so it kicked down and locked up, countersteered and pushed right through the corner in the wet, much better then the open diff. I got it at NAPA, I think I might have gotten a one time good deal... Not 100% sure how it worked, but they charged me 40$ plus tax for the caliper and 80$ for the core! So leaving NAPA I paid them 120$ plus tax (cant remember exactly), and when I came back, I got 94$ back for my old caliper core. I was a happy camper. Just got some Satisfied Metalazer rear brake pads in the mail today (10$ plus shipping) originally 60$ pads...! I seem to be finding the deals lately :-) Slowly getting together everything to do all the brakes, new pads/rotors. I was going to go with Brembo rotors, I figure before I do, if anyone knows a better brand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 Nothing wrong with Brembo at all, especially if you find another deal... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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