MudFinder95 Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 (edited) I'm fine with paying $150.00 for a 3" body lift. But then paying close to $1000 for a 3-4" suspension lift is too much. Is there any tricks to maybe swap something in to get some more lift for cheap? Thanks! -Landon Edited November 11, 2008 by MudFinder95 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 search is your friend. If you get the right deals you can come up with a suspension lift for around 3-400, less if you are lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 Search is your friend. Theres plenty of ways to cut costs while lifting you Pathfinders suspension using Junk Yard parts, but keep in mind, once you raise the vehicles suspension you must also fix the steering as the factory steering in not up to the challenge of bigger tires and lift. Again. search is your friend. This topic has been covered, and covered and covered again. In the end your probably looking to spend at least 1000 bucks to do everything properly even with Junk yard parts. Don't have the cash? Then I would advise not to even think about starting it yet. This hobby is an expensive one and the snowball effect happens very quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudFinder95 Posted November 11, 2008 Author Share Posted November 11, 2008 (edited) Yeah I read the stuff on going to junk yards and taking springs out of jeeps and whatnot. Its winter time.. is there a cheap or sort of cheap spring that I can buy 2of and add 2-3" of lift for the rear after I crank up the front t-bars? Edited November 11, 2008 by MudFinder95 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 pathfinders only have 2 rear springs. are you talking about shocks? 4x4parts.com sells springs if you dont want to go to a yard if you go to the general forums section there is an aftermarket parts list topic which is very helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudFinder95 Posted November 11, 2008 Author Share Posted November 11, 2008 sorry I was thinking of my car for some reason ya I heard cranking up your t bars adds 3" of lift in the front. then theres springs to get 3" out of the rear to level it out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 yeah, thats the general idea. its not really that simple though. cranking your t-bars without aftermarket UCA's will mess up your alignment. There are many, many, many threads covering this explaining in detail what the best parts are, where to get them, general pricing, installation instructions etc, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudFinder95 Posted November 11, 2008 Author Share Posted November 11, 2008 I got that I need to get Roughcountry upper control arms then crank the torsion bars 3". Then for springs either AC or JGC springs which apparently give around 3" of lift. couple questions: 1. what are AC and JGC springs?? I really don't know 2. can I still use my stock shocks and everything else Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 AC = Automotive Customizers bought at www.4x4parts.com JGC = Jeep Grand Cherokee, there is a whole thread on why JGC springs are best, what length to cut them to etc etc. AC sells UCA's too which are cheaper and easier to get than Rough Country's, but also of lesser quality. No, you can't use your stock shocks, have to get longer ones. There is a thread pinned in one of the sections that talks about the lengths needed for several different companies. Rancho is considered the best(by most), cheapest are probably SkyJacker. Its recommended you replace your bushings at this time as well, and get a steering upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudFinder95 Posted November 11, 2008 Author Share Posted November 11, 2008 this is starting to equal up to just buying a lift kit. springs - $200 UCA's - $300 Shocks - guessing $300 or so steering stuff would be a hundred maybe. = ahhh I'm leaning towards this route Because I know I can get a 4" complete SL for $1000.00. Should I just get a 3" BL and crank up my t bars maybe 1-1.5" to even out the ride height and be done until I can get money for the SL kit.. Would I be able to crank my t bars 1-1.5" higher without new UCA's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 where are you looking at UCAs and springs? AC sells UCA's for 200, 3" springs for 130. Package without shocks comes for 300. a complete steering kit is around 100 yeah. Shocks is the killer, depends what you want to pay. I'm assuming the 4" lift you are talking about is the trailmaster? You do know that to do this lift requires rerouting things such as the exhaust right? Get the BL if you want, and even out your suspension, but I would wait to put in new springs till you have new UCA's too. Also, with a BL and suspension lift there is a big chance you will have to lengthen brake lines and such. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudFinder95 Posted November 11, 2008 Author Share Posted November 11, 2008 (edited) where are you looking at UCAs and springs?AC sells UCA's for 200, 3" springs for 130. Package without shocks comes for 300. a complete steering kit is around 100 yeah. Shocks is the killer, depends what you want to pay. I'm assuming the 4" lift you are talking about is the trailmaster? You do know that to do this lift requires rerouting things such as the exhaust right? Get the BL if you want, and even out your suspension, but I would wait to put in new springs till you have new UCA's too. Also, with a BL and suspension lift there is a big chance you will have to lengthen brake lines and such. link me to the uca/spring package I can't find it on the site. (if you can find roughcountry UCA's link me to that too). What upgrades would I need for steering? I assume to use Rancho shocks right? how long should they be? Thanks! Edited November 11, 2008 by MudFinder95 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 My suggestion, Decide if you want a Body Lift, Suspension lift, or both. If you want a Body Lift, you can pick that up with the replacement bolts from www.4x4parts.com Suspension Lift: Call Rough Country for the UCA's ($150-$210usd) Grab some JGC Springs from a wrecking yard or member here, if any have some for sale. ($20-$50usd) Order some ProComp ES3000 or 9000's from www.4wheelparts.com ($145-$160) *Search the forums for info on longer rear shocks. Fronts remain the same length even when lifted* Get a Idler Arm brace, these can be made for cheap or purchased for $40usd at www.ruggedrocksoffroad.com Consider a replacement Centerlink (steering) from member name "hoohaa" (not sure of current pricing) No need to lengthen the brake lines with a BL and/or suspension lift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudFinder95 Posted November 11, 2008 Author Share Posted November 11, 2008 My suggestion, Decide if you want a Body Lift, Suspension lift, or both. If you want a Body Lift, you can pick that up with the replacement bolts from www.4x4parts.com Suspension Lift: Call Rough Country for the UCA's ($150-$210usd) Grab some JGC Springs from a wrecking yard or member here, if any have some for sale. ($20-$50usd) Order some ProComp ES3000 or 9000's from www.4wheelparts.com ($145-$160) *Search the forums for info on longer rear shocks. Fronts remain the same length even when lifted* Get a Idler Arm brace, these can be made for cheap or purchased for $40usd at www.ruggedrocksoffroad.com Consider a replacement Centerlink (steering) from member name "hoohaa" (not sure of current pricing) No need to lengthen the brake lines with a BL and/or suspension lift I have decided that I want both. I want to first get a 3" BL and 33x12.50's that probably won't fit. Then get a SL.. Is it true with a 4" SL kit I have to modify the exhaust? and with a 3" SL kit I don't? Also thanks for all the info you just posted it helps a lot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 The 4in is a "Drop Bracket" lift, these drop the front diff and torsion bar cross member down 4in, thus raising the body and frame 4in. Because of this I believe the crossover pipe has to be replaced, Slick may able to provide better info as one of her trucks has that style lift. The "3in" lift is composed of all or some of the parts I mentioned above and no exhaust mods are required. And just so you know, all three of these lift types are stackable, meaning you can use them all to get a lift of up to 10in (9-9.5 is more realistic because the "3in suspension lift" is usually best left at 2-2.5in) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudFinder95 Posted November 11, 2008 Author Share Posted November 11, 2008 Cool. So if i get a 3" BL then a 3" SL kit (which has the 3" UCA's and longer shocks) does this mean I can just buy 3" springs and crank up the torsion bars after since I have all the other needed parts already bought with my 3" SL kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 yes, but most SL "kits" would come with the springs. the only thing you do to the front is crank up the torsion bars(after getting new UCA's). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yozsi Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 Lol, after you spend all that money and time on BL And IFS lifts, you could so an sas. I think i spent a total of 1500 on my SAS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Yozsi, I personally agree but.. Yes thats true, but that is assuming you have the know how and means to do it your self and that you actually wany to sas your truck... a SAS is not for everyone, some people don't like/want them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudFinder95 Posted November 12, 2008 Author Share Posted November 12, 2008 (edited) I plan on keeping the IFS.. Just a two more questions since I'm new to the mudding thing. 1. Is there any after market rear bumpers for my pathfinder? (I couldn't find any) 2. I just quickly measured the lug pattern for my new rims (AR Outlaw I's) and it looks to be 6x5.5" is this right or what is it? Edited November 12, 2008 by MudFinder95 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Ummmmmmm...there's KMA (I think) and I believe AC has one. That's all I can think of. Lug pattern is 6x5.5 IIRC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Yeah better recount the number of lug nuts As 88 said, it's 6x5.5 You might be able to find a used smitty (check CL) otherwise a lot of people just make their own or have someone make one for them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudFinder95 Posted November 12, 2008 Author Share Posted November 12, 2008 (edited) lol now I feel dumb. But I do like the KMA rear bumper a lot with out the tire carrier. Thanks for the help! Edited November 12, 2008 by MudFinder95 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 If your going to go 3+3 with 33's then you best make sure you pick up an Idler arm Brace and hoohaa centerlink as mentioned and either make or find a Panhard bar dropdown bracket or its going to ride like sh!t. Go offroad without the steering upgrade and you'll be lucky if you don't mess up either your centerlink or idler arm. Also once you go to 33's you'll have a lot less low end power without regearing your axle so as you can see, it starts to snowball. There is no such thing as a cheap 1000 lift in my opinion since as soon as you change one thing, you must change many more to compensate for the first. Good luck and Can't wait to see photo's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudFinder95 Posted November 12, 2008 Author Share Posted November 12, 2008 If your going to go 3+3 with 33's then you best make sure you pick up an Idler arm Brace and hoohaa centerlink as mentioned and either make or find a Panhard bar dropdown bracket or its going to ride like sh!t. Go offroad without the steering upgrade and you'll be lucky if you don't mess up either your centerlink or idler arm. Also once you go to 33's you'll have a lot less low end power without regearing your axle so as you can see, it starts to snowball. There is no such thing as a cheap 1000 lift in my opinion since as soon as you change one thing, you must change many more to compensate for the first. Good luck and Can't wait to see photo's. Meh, I don't care about power for this truck. I'm actually into drag racing and have a 351W mustang so I'll drive that if I want power... but my friend is getting me into mudding. I'll be sure to upgrade all that also.. If you ever want to see progress pics just go to my cardomain page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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