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Lookin for advice in Florida.


themange
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Howdy. Well, I am just realizing how much I love my little Pathfinder after buying it a few months ago. I paid $1500 for a 94 Pathfinder XE-V6. It runs very strong and clean. I'd done some minor off roading with it, and decided I would put some money into it go get things a little more sturdy. I'm not very vehicle savvy, This is going to be my first learning project. It has two major problems right now though that make me wonder if I should waste my time and money. First. The front drivers side four wheel drive mechanism does not engage. I have been driving in 2wd. If I try to engage the 4x4 it just grinds, clunks, and messes things up in that front drivers side wheel. Cost me a Mechanic visit the first time I tried 4x4. I figure this is repairable, but I'm not sure how much I'm looking it.

 

Major problem that worries me when I think about making it an offroad truck. Being my first vehicle, I looked at everything under the hood, Drove it around a good amount, and fell in love with it. For the price, and how well it ran. I snatched it. I was however unaware of the major rust problems these particular vehicles face, and didn't find out I had a big hole in the back passenger side frame. Right above the wheel has a about 5"x5" hole rusted through one side of the box frame, and it's spreading. The other side is not rusted through, but shows signs of starting decay, and I'm sure it will rust through if I don't soak it down with wd40 until I can get it replaced. However upon inspection these two spots are the only places that are rusted more than a minimum.

 

This 5x5 hole though, Do you think it's salvagable? It is only the one outward facing side of the box frame rusted through. I have some fresh 1/8 inch steel i can slap in there pretty easily, but I'm not sure if this is going to make it strong enough to be a viable offroading vehicle. I'm not so interested in extreme rock climbing or anything, as I am trail riding, and playing in mudholes. So it shouldn't be facing TOO much stress. I live in florida. It's hard to find anything with too extreme of an angle.

 

Anyway, Should I just save this Pathfinder for spare parts and get a new one since I like em so much? Or could this poor beast be saved?

Edited by themange
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5x5 hole isn't too bad.....we've seen worse. 1/8" steel is plenty, as it's thicker than the steel originally used for the frame. If you're a good welder, you should be able to fix it fairly easily.

 

Do the other side as well, as it will rust through. In the future, keep the inside of the frame rails clean, and well lubricated (fluid film works really well as a rust inhibitor) and you shouldn't have too many problems.

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5x5 hole isn't too bad.....we've seen worse. 1/8" steel is plenty, as it's thicker than the steel originally used for the frame. If you're a good welder, you should be able to fix it fairly easily.

 

Do the other side as well, as it will rust through. In the future, keep the inside of the frame rails clean, and well lubricated (fluid film works really well as a rust inhibitor) and you shouldn't have too many problems.

 

 

Ah thanks. So if I patch it up and replace the suspension she'll be OK for rough terrain?

 

How about the front drivers side fourwheel drive mechanism? Any idea on what that'll cost me? Hehe.

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Ah thanks. So if I patch it up and replace the suspension she'll be OK for rough terrain?

 

How about the front drivers side fourwheel drive mechanism? Any idea on what that'll cost me? Hehe.

 

 

I'll upload some pictures of the hole, and the exact aspect of the 4x4 mechanism I'm referring to later today.

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Ah thanks. So if I patch it up and replace the suspension she'll be OK for rough terrain?

 

How about the front drivers side fourwheel drive mechanism? Any idea on what that'll cost me? Hehe.

It should be fine as long as you do what simon says (lol) and keep the inside clean, and weld it on properly.

 

For the 4x4 it may be that the auto hub grenaded itself. You can take it off to inspect.

 

Oh, and go download the service manual for your truck it will make working on it a lot easier! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9692

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Yep, auto hub probably shot. Look into getting Warn Premiums. They're stronger than stock,and positively locked when you want them to be.

 

Warn part # 29091

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Yep, auto hub probably shot. Look into getting Warn Premiums. They're stronger than stock,and positively locked when you want them to be.

 

Warn part # 29091

 

Thank y'all very much. Great community for a great vehicle. I was a Toyota Fanatic for a long time, but I love my Nissan!

 

I do believe it is the "auto hub" I wasn't sure what it was called. It's the little arm and cuplink... thing.... that engages into the backside of the wheel. It doesn't line up true . "grenaded itself" is a good term. :P

 

I noticed that JJ Big Shoe is also from Sarasota. Small world!

Edited by themange
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I do believe it is the "auto hub" I wasn't sure what it was called. It's the little arm and cuplink... thing.... that engages into the backside of the wheel. It doesn't line up true . "grenaded itself" is a good term.

 

The back of the wheel/rotor assembly? That would be your CV joint/boot/staft. Basically the drive shaft from the front differential.

 

B

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Here are some pictures.

 

This is the bad side. The Passenger side. Looking at the frame from back to front. The pen is for size reference. After getting under there today I realize how dirty she is, and how bad the rust actually is. I'm starting to think I should clean up, and sell this vehicle. cut my losses. =/... Not sure why this post is showing a "thumbnail" of the first picture at the bottom.

 

 

 

IMG_2638.jpg

 

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IMG_2632.jpg

 

IMG_2636.jpg

post-6625-1224726842_thumb.jpg

Edited by themange
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:worthless:

 

lol

 

But seriously, post a thread in the garage and post up some pics, surely someone can help you out bud.

 

I thought my post had to be moved there?

 

I'm going to go ahead and clean out as much as I can, and replace it with fresh steel, but unless I'm told otherwise I'm pretty sure this frame is about shot. :( I didn't realize it was as bad as it is.

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The back of the wheel/rotor assembly? That would be your CV joint/boot/staft. Basically the drive shaft from the front differential.

 

B

 

This is what I'm talking about. It is basically loose in there. Rattles around on bumps. When I try to engage four wheel drive, It engages at first, but pops free and grinds/clunks pretty nastily if you try to drive with it. I've considered just completely removing the mechanism to get rid of the rattling on bumps, but it seems like it may be a little more than I want to get into. Until I'm ready to replace it. If i'm going to replace it.

 

IMG_2624.jpg

Edited by themange
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I've seen worse frames get fixed and are still around today. That is your CV joint. You need a new halfshaft, no big deal.

 

On the bright side, that Upper control arm looks new.

 

question. this IS an automatic. which runs really smooth for being as old and haggard as she is. The whole engine, and transmission itself are really stable. I'm just curious how these stock automatics are for 4x4ing?

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I have the same problem as you do for frame rot i almost think mine is worse. There is a few small thing spots up in the middle of the frame by the running boards which i have had a few plates welded to but basically from the back of the rear passenger tire all the way to the bumper is down to hardly anything.....Im just going to weld a bunch of 1/8-1/4 in think steel angle iron and make my own frame around my half gone frame lol.

 

img043.jpg

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img033.jpg

 

As you can see its pretty bad lol

Edited by edicer2
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Damn JJ, that's a generous offer. Good Luck with the move, I hope it is all smooth and painless. ;)

 

It is basically loose in there. Rattles around on bumps. When I try to engage four wheel drive, It engages at first, but pops free and grinds/clunks pretty nastily if you try to drive with it. I've considered just completely removing the mechanism to get rid of the rattling on bumps, but it seems like it may be a little more than I want to get into.

You still want to check the hub side of things, but yes, with out being there and seeing, I'd guess you have a blown CV... It's not that hard to replace if you have some tools and a place to work...

 

B

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