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Kinda long question (NEED HELP!)


scarboy
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just FYI.... you can't use an auto's ECU on a manual pathy...... so leave the wiring where it is on each vehicle.

 

i think you mean the other way around Slick. the auto ECU will work for an auto AND a manual but a manual ECU will ONLY work for a manual. thats what i have heard from others and seen with my own eyes on 2 of my buddys pathys who did the swap in their trucks.....from auto to manual tranny swap. auto ECU is "universal" from my understanding.

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First, soundly whack them on the head with a hammer a few times, but not in a way to damage them. This is known as 'ringing' it and will help break the rust/corrosion free and any penetrant you use has a better chance of being effective. You should try heating it with a torch then letting it cool (thermal expansion will further assist breaking it free). Then apply a penetrating solvent (PB blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc). Let that sit for a while then try to break the bolts free. Use an impact driver (mechanical is fine also) first, then a wrench or socket. Repeated applications of penetrant on the really stubborn bolts is advised. Good luck and be careful.

 

If you snap some bolts, I have a write up somewhere on broken bolt removal and thread chasing.

 

B

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I am assuming you are stuck on getting the nuts off of the exhaust pipes?

 

The easy trick for the driver's side is to get at them from the wheel well. Either take the tire off, or jack up that side so the tire is out of the way. When you look in, you will see the nuts. You will be able to actually stick your arm in there and touch all of them! Get a 14mm wrench and a cheater pipe and bust them loose.

 

I never did figure out a better way for the passenger side ones. Just a few extensions, a breaker bar, and some BST(blood sweat tears).

 

One of the best feelings on earth is breaking torque on a nut or bolt. Don't give up.

 

Also, probably the most important thing to remember is to clean the threads as best as you can before trying to remove the nuts. Getting those exhaust nuts off is just one of those things that sucks.

 

Hope this helps some,

 

indigent.

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  • 3 weeks later...
I am assuming you are stuck on getting the nuts off of the exhaust pipes?

 

The easy trick for the driver's side is to get at them from the wheel well. Either take the tire off, or jack up that side so the tire is out of the way. When you look in, you will see the nuts. You will be able to actually stick your arm in there and touch all of them! Get a 14mm wrench and a cheater pipe and bust them loose.

 

I never did figure out a better way for the passenger side ones. Just a few extensions, a breaker bar, and some BST(blood sweat tears).

 

One of the best feelings on earth is breaking torque on a nut or bolt. Don't give up.

 

Also, probably the most important thing to remember is to clean the threads as best as you can before trying to remove the nuts. Getting those exhaust nuts off is just one of those things that sucks.

 

Hope this helps some,

 

indigent.

 

Well I got the manifolds loose but DO I just pull the manifolds out of the way or do I take them off?

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2 more than you think. need to get up on top of the bell housing with some extensions, u-joint sockets and a few cuss words.

 

 

just a hint... I got to many things I couldn't normally get my hands on by going long. If you can find a spot where you can see it, you should be able to beg/borrow/steal enough extensions to reach it.

 

you need to go through the starter home and get at the torque convertor-to-flywheel bolts before you unbolt the housing. Follow the steps in the AT section of the FSM but you don't have to remove the AT like it says. You may need to unbolt it and definately support it but with some angle and cussing, the engine should be able to slide forward enough to get it off the tranny (did I mention you MUST remove the radiator and fan and crap from the front?)

Edited by k9sar
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need to get up on top of the bell housing with some extensions, u-joint sockets and a few cuss words.

2' extension, 6" extension and a universal. Have one guy look down by the fire wall and guide the socket onto the bolt head and hold it there. Then all you have to do is break it free. If you try to do it alone, it could make you cry...

 

B

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2' extension, 6" extension and a universal. Have one guy look down by the fire wall and guide the socket onto the bolt head and hold it there. Then all you have to do is break it free. If you try to do it alone, it could make you cry...

 

B

OK, done!

 

Now what about the front differential?

How do I drop it?

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Maybe... I have lots of tools, and friends to help.. I just pulled the pathy into the garage and drained all of the fluids, tomorrow is label and disconnect the wiring day.

 

Having a cold and swapin a motor is no fun :-(

 

Scarboy, how far have you gotten?

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I havent ever been able to pull an engine (2 MT's and 1 Auto) without dropping the front diff...the last time i tried it i tried to let it half ass hang and it still didnt give me room over the pan then I ended up dropping the diff on my finger and going to the ER...no fun

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I havent ever been able to pull an engine (2 MT's and 1 Auto) without dropping the front diff...the last time i tried it i tried to let it half ass hang and it still didnt give me room over the pan then I ended up dropping the diff on my finger and going to the ER...no fun

Ok SO it is definate that I have to drop the diff.

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Ok SO it is definate that I have to drop the diff.

 

Can anyone tell me why you have to drop the diff?

 

 

So far, I have gotten all of my wiring disconnected, fluids drained, and radiator out.

 

Today is accessory removal. AC, PS, starter and alternator.

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