scarboy Posted July 17, 2008 Author Share Posted July 17, 2008 Pics of the good pathy and the wrecked one. And pics of my pathfinder in her former glory.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scarboy Posted July 17, 2008 Author Share Posted July 17, 2008 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathmaker1 Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 just FYI.... you can't use an auto's ECU on a manual pathy...... so leave the wiring where it is on each vehicle. i think you mean the other way around Slick. the auto ECU will work for an auto AND a manual but a manual ECU will ONLY work for a manual. thats what i have heard from others and seen with my own eyes on 2 of my buddys pathys who did the swap in their trucks.....from auto to manual tranny swap. auto ECU is "universal" from my understanding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scarboy Posted July 25, 2008 Author Share Posted July 25, 2008 I'm stuck on removing the trans bolts from the engine....I know I need to remove the exhaust but I cant because te bolts are too rusted...Help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 First, soundly whack them on the head with a hammer a few times, but not in a way to damage them. This is known as 'ringing' it and will help break the rust/corrosion free and any penetrant you use has a better chance of being effective. You should try heating it with a torch then letting it cool (thermal expansion will further assist breaking it free). Then apply a penetrating solvent (PB blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc). Let that sit for a while then try to break the bolts free. Use an impact driver (mechanical is fine also) first, then a wrench or socket. Repeated applications of penetrant on the really stubborn bolts is advised. Good luck and be careful. If you snap some bolts, I have a write up somewhere on broken bolt removal and thread chasing. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indigent Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 I am assuming you are stuck on getting the nuts off of the exhaust pipes? The easy trick for the driver's side is to get at them from the wheel well. Either take the tire off, or jack up that side so the tire is out of the way. When you look in, you will see the nuts. You will be able to actually stick your arm in there and touch all of them! Get a 14mm wrench and a cheater pipe and bust them loose. I never did figure out a better way for the passenger side ones. Just a few extensions, a breaker bar, and some BST(blood sweat tears). One of the best feelings on earth is breaking torque on a nut or bolt. Don't give up. Also, probably the most important thing to remember is to clean the threads as best as you can before trying to remove the nuts. Getting those exhaust nuts off is just one of those things that sucks. Hope this helps some, indigent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scarboy Posted August 9, 2008 Author Share Posted August 9, 2008 I am assuming you are stuck on getting the nuts off of the exhaust pipes? The easy trick for the driver's side is to get at them from the wheel well. Either take the tire off, or jack up that side so the tire is out of the way. When you look in, you will see the nuts. You will be able to actually stick your arm in there and touch all of them! Get a 14mm wrench and a cheater pipe and bust them loose. I never did figure out a better way for the passenger side ones. Just a few extensions, a breaker bar, and some BST(blood sweat tears). One of the best feelings on earth is breaking torque on a nut or bolt. Don't give up. Also, probably the most important thing to remember is to clean the threads as best as you can before trying to remove the nuts. Getting those exhaust nuts off is just one of those things that sucks. Hope this helps some, indigent. Well I got the manifolds loose but DO I just pull the manifolds out of the way or do I take them off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted August 11, 2008 Share Posted August 11, 2008 If I recall correctly, you will need to remove them to get adequate clearance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scarboy Posted August 11, 2008 Author Share Posted August 11, 2008 If I recall correctly, you will need to remove them to get adequate clearance HOw do I get to the bolts attaching the manifold to the down pipe/Y pipe? Looks pretty tight in there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 I got at mine from the wheel well and from underneath with a bunch of long extensions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scarboy Posted August 12, 2008 Author Share Posted August 12, 2008 I got at mine from the wheel well and from underneath with a bunch of long extensions. That worked great!!! Thanks for thinking outside the box! How many tranny bolts are there btw? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 (edited) 2 more than you think. need to get up on top of the bell housing with some extensions, u-joint sockets and a few cuss words. just a hint... I got to many things I couldn't normally get my hands on by going long. If you can find a spot where you can see it, you should be able to beg/borrow/steal enough extensions to reach it. you need to go through the starter home and get at the torque convertor-to-flywheel bolts before you unbolt the housing. Follow the steps in the AT section of the FSM but you don't have to remove the AT like it says. You may need to unbolt it and definately support it but with some angle and cussing, the engine should be able to slide forward enough to get it off the tranny (did I mention you MUST remove the radiator and fan and crap from the front?) Edited August 12, 2008 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 do you have a FSM by the way? came in handy during my swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 need to get up on top of the bell housing with some extensions, u-joint sockets and a few cuss words. 2' extension, 6" extension and a universal. Have one guy look down by the fire wall and guide the socket onto the bolt head and hold it there. Then all you have to do is break it free. If you try to do it alone, it could make you cry... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scarboy Posted August 19, 2008 Author Share Posted August 19, 2008 2' extension, 6" extension and a universal. Have one guy look down by the fire wall and guide the socket onto the bolt head and hold it there. Then all you have to do is break it free. If you try to do it alone, it could make you cry... B OK, done! Now what about the front differential? How do I drop it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted August 19, 2008 Share Posted August 19, 2008 why are you dropping the front diff to do an engine swap? I don't recall doing so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scarboy Posted August 20, 2008 Author Share Posted August 20, 2008 why are you dropping the front diff to do an engine swap?I don't recall doing so. the front axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerdave Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 I am doing this as well, in my book it says to drop the front diff? I didnt understand why either? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 perhaps just to get access to stuff. I did it without Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerdave Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Maybe... I have lots of tools, and friends to help.. I just pulled the pathy into the garage and drained all of the fluids, tomorrow is label and disconnect the wiring day. Having a cold and swapin a motor is no fun :-( Scarboy, how far have you gotten? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 I havent ever been able to pull an engine (2 MT's and 1 Auto) without dropping the front diff...the last time i tried it i tried to let it half ass hang and it still didnt give me room over the pan then I ended up dropping the diff on my finger and going to the ER...no fun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scarboy Posted August 26, 2008 Author Share Posted August 26, 2008 I havent ever been able to pull an engine (2 MT's and 1 Auto) without dropping the front diff...the last time i tried it i tried to let it half ass hang and it still didnt give me room over the pan then I ended up dropping the diff on my finger and going to the ER...no fun Ok SO it is definate that I have to drop the diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerdave Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 Ok SO it is definate that I have to drop the diff. Can anyone tell me why you have to drop the diff? So far, I have gotten all of my wiring disconnected, fluids drained, and radiator out. Today is accessory removal. AC, PS, starter and alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerdave Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 Is it easier to remove the tranny+engine, to replace the engine, or just the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red87Path Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 either way youll want the tranny bolted to the new engine before instal, easier to put in as a unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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