stikky_p Posted April 18, 2008 Share Posted April 18, 2008 Hey guys... I have a 1987 pathfinder 4x4 manual tranny.. The vehicle runs rather well just at idle. When you push on the pedal it bogs out and wants to stall.. u think u wanna rev it up to feed more idle but it bogs more.. then dies.. its got the electro injection. with the carb and the 2 injectors in the middle. Im thinking it might be fuel problem. either to lean or rich. ive changed to fuel filters and enough fuel pressure seems to be coming through. could it be a vaccum issue? as soon as you press the pedal to accelerate it dies out.. just wondering what the cause might be?? could it be a head gasket issue? i noticed a small coolant leak but im not sure where its coming from.. no overheating or anything tough.. and i only have to fill the resevoiur a tiny bit every now and then.. so im thinking its not that.. need help.. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted April 18, 2008 Share Posted April 18, 2008 check your timing. If you are on the hairy edge of where it should be, you might just choke it to death with no fire due to the spark advance on accelleration. Just a thought Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted April 18, 2008 Author Share Posted April 18, 2008 see thats another issue i was thinking about. Unfortuantly there is no timing mark anymore. I dont knwo what happened to it. Usually there is a metal edge coming off the block with a line on it telling you where to match up but there isnt on this engine. not sure why.. is there any other way to check and make sure it hasnt jumped a notch and my timing is out? i have a timing light but dont know how to use it without that notch.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted April 19, 2008 Share Posted April 19, 2008 I'd check the basics. Pull the plugs, definately check all the vacuum lines, cap, rotor, etc. and check the ECU codes to see if anything pops up. And throw a post up in the parts wanted section for a timing belt cover. Someone might one laying around. Let us know what you find and good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted April 19, 2008 Author Share Posted April 19, 2008 vaccum is one of those things that i know may effect it.. but will it effect it that much?? where abouts would i get the vac diagrams for the 87 4 cyl engine? as do they make a full vaccum line kit?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 If a vac line is cracked or disconnected it could be sucking air into the manifold which would create enough of a lean condition to stall the engine when you gas it. I had a vac line problem after my engine swap and it would run fine for a while but I think the lean condition was causing weak combustion which left unburned fuel in the cylinders and fouled the plugs. After running like that long enough, it plain wouldn't start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted April 20, 2008 Author Share Posted April 20, 2008 well this unit starts awesome and idles just fine.. just when you step on the gas it bogs down and dies.. im sure its gott abe fuel or air issues.. wouldn't it idle crappy or start like crap if the timing was out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 I'm thinking it could be a vacuum line or maybe the EGR is starting to fail...I know the test is to push up on the bladder and it should kill the engine so it could be something up with the vacuum there causing the EGR to kill it out...but start like JJ said and go through everything...checking the ECU should be the 1st thing to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted April 20, 2008 Author Share Posted April 20, 2008 ecu gives no codes.. it says normal operating conditions.. code 55 i think.. hasnt reported anything wrong.. How would i test the injectors? for some reason i think that may be the issue.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 hmm my 87 FSM doesnt say anything about a code 55...it says 44 would be "good" or no errors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted April 21, 2008 Author Share Posted April 21, 2008 i couldnt remember the code but i know it reported no problems.. im going to do a couple things so i can count them out.. i think this would be good tests.. fuel pressure test injector ohm test checking vacuum lines or leaks spraying carb cleaner listing for idle changes thats just to start i guess.. if anyone has any head up on the injector test can you let me know.. I dont know exactly what the ohm should be using a multimeter.. or if there is a easier way?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 if it were electrical the ECU would have caught it...you could try cleaning the MAF and check what you have listed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissan4x4 Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 Mine was doing the same thing, it turned out to be the timing, pulled the dizzy and lined it up correctly. Tons more power it a manual and it hauls ass now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted April 22, 2008 Author Share Posted April 22, 2008 how did you line it up properly.. i have a haynes manual and it tells me how to properly adjust the dizzy but not pull it and align it properly.. my timing case has no indicator on it so i cant tell where the tdc should be.. anyother way to find this out without to much hassle? like i said its running fine at idle but bogs when its put under load on reved up.. maybe i need to advance the timing a bit.. that may be where the lack of power is coming from too.. mind you they never had any sufficient power to start lol.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 you could approximate the TDC mark...or find TDC by pulling #1 and use a rod to find TDC then mark the 0 off of the crank pulley then you set the dizzy to #1 as your hanes or FSM says to then slap the timing light on it and you could probably get it pretty accurate that way I believe b/c if 1 is at TDC and no one has jacked around with the crank pulley then it should be 0...it would also probably be close to the "tack" spots that are on the TB case just a thought but don't know if its valid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissan4x4 Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 Did you say yours was a l4 or v6, because mine is the v6 don't know if theres any difference in the dizzy alignment between the two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted April 24, 2008 Author Share Posted April 24, 2008 mines the 4cyl.. not v6.. i could probably guestimate but if the dizzy is out then im right messed up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 (edited) Here is the page from the FSM for setting the Dizzy...it's pretty vague... Edited April 24, 2008 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted April 24, 2008 Author Share Posted April 24, 2008 i think as soon as it warms up here im going to check the timing asap.. i hope thats what it is or else im adding another equasion to the puzzle... could a malfunctioning EGR valve be the cause? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 I think yes...I was going to suggest that earlier but didn't theres a pretty easy test for that...If I remember when I get home this afternoon i'll take pix of those pages and post them...I know with my test for the EGR i depressed the bladder and it would damn near kill the truck out so if it can fail in that position I believe that could cause the problem but I don't know it's failure mode if its anything like my VG30...the EGR probably was out of the equation many years ago...when i broke my TB the tube going from the EGR to the intake was completely clogged with carbon and no way for anything to pass through it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted April 24, 2008 Author Share Posted April 24, 2008 OK OK WOAH!!!!! I think i have a breakthrough.. I went out to mess around with the unit.. charged the battery because i mistakingly left the inside light on.. DOAH... then started it... started great with it boosted.. took the booster off and all was good as normal.. let it warm up and decided to test it and IT WORKED!... there was no more stumble.. however when i drove it around the back alley i noticed it was lacking in power.. and when i reved the engine up it would backfire.. but only when the idle was coming back down.. i would rev it to like 3000rpm and on the way down at about 1500 or so it would backfire and spit a little black smoke out.. not a ton.. barley noticable.. DOES THIS HELP?? i also noticed i was little low on fuel and coolant.. not severly but rather low.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted April 26, 2008 Author Share Posted April 26, 2008 anyone??? im kinda stuck lol... I ran out and tryed to start it again but battery was dead.. im guessing it wasnt fully charged.. charging it up now but vehicle seemed to run awesome but with a backfire.. fuel is low should i add in some injector cleaner?? maybe a fuel additive to clean?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted April 26, 2008 Share Posted April 26, 2008 Check the voltage on your battery now. Maybe your alty isn't charging your battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted April 26, 2008 Author Share Posted April 26, 2008 would that cause the constant hesitation at about 2000 rpm?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikky_p Posted April 26, 2008 Author Share Posted April 26, 2008 ok now i have another issue that might bring us closer.. when the vehicle is warm and idling.. it idles at about 1000rpm.. now just sitting there in revs slowly up and down.. up to about 1300 then back to 1000 then 3 or 5 seconds later it revs up again then down.. its never a routine thing etiher.. could be gone for 10 seconds then back... im going to look into a vacuum issue this weekend but not sure if a can of carb cleaner or ether will totally do the trick.. any help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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