Couple little things i need to get fixed...

[laxman0324]

Ok, Ive gotten a few things fixed, but now I have a small list of the last few things i need to fix...

 

1. I have something moving around in my front suspension/steering that moves whenever I go over a bumpy path of pavement or anything like that, and i can get it to move around at slow speeds if i turn the wheel back and forth... Anybody have any suggestions of what to look for?

 

2. During hard throttle, hard enough to keep it in the same gear, but not downshift (AT), the engine seems as though the power supply isn't constant, it seems to go in and out of throttle, if you watch the tach, you can see the tach rise, then pause for a second, and you can audibly hear the engine do it. Is this a sign of bad plugs? Throttle position sensor? anything else? I just had the oil changed and they didnt mention anything about sludge or anything, so I doubt its that.

 

3. Where is the TPS located, how hard is it to replace, and where is the best place to purchase it? Also, what are the symptoms of a bad TPS? My pathy idles at around 900 after warmed up and in park.

 

4. Where is the coolant temp sensor located, and all the same questions as above. My temp gauge is always right at the middle when warm, so does this mean that this sensor is fine or what?

 

Thanks for all your help in advance, I'm really loving this truck, but just wanna get it into the best running shape I can so I can get many good years out of it.

 

Mike

[Simon]

1. Could be the strut mounts are shot. Pezzy's truck had some noise when going over bumps, and that's what it was. Could also be the swaybar links.

 

2-3 . Could be any number of things. If it's been a while since your last tuneup, I'd say do that first. If that doesn't fix your issue, there could be any number of things wrong. The TPS could be it, but I'd doubt it. High idle could be a bad fuel mixture, and for that I'd look to the MAF and/or the O2 sensors. Have you cleaned your MAF sensor recently?

 

4. Not sure where it's located.

[laxman0324]

1. Could be the strut mounts are shot. Pezzy's truck had some noise when going over bumps, and that's what it was. Could also be the swaybar links.

 

2-3 . Could be any number of things. If it's been a while since your last tuneup, I'd say do that first. If that doesn't fix your issue, there could be any number of things wrong. The TPS could be it, but I'd doubt it. High idle could be a bad fuel mixture, and for that I'd look to the MAF and/or the O2 sensors. Have you cleaned your MAF sensor recently?

 

4. Not sure where it's located.

 

1. Ill have to check that out, is there any way I can visually inspect these without taking things apart?

 

2. I bought the truck two months ago, so I have no idea if its been cleaned or not but I was gonna do it this summer with the TPS sensor anyway. Im getting a on again off again CEL, I believe its for an O2 sensor, but my mileage has been 18-19. What all do you mean to do bye tuneup? I was gonna do plugs and wires, and clean out the TBI and crankcase and all with seafoam, and I was going to change ALL fluids this summer. Wouldn't the MAF throw a code?

[zonianbrat]

Not always, if it gets dirty it can just mess with the fuel/air mixture and run a little rough. Your Maf is just after your air filter box on top. It has like 3 or 4 screws on it. You just unscrew them and gently take out the sensor. Then take some Isopropyl Alchohol and a cotton swab and "very gently" clean the metal contacts. I emphasize gently because if you break the contacts you need a new MAF and I hear they run like 4 or 500 bucks. First time I cleaned mine it idled smoother and I think it actually ran better on the highway. Hard to tell about the highway driving though.

[Simon]

Well, for the strut mounts, the only thing I could see is that the main bolt, on top, was not centered on Pezzy's. If you look under the hood, at the fenderwells, you'll see the 3 bolts holding the strut mount to the fender, and in the middle, you'll see the strut to mount bolt. That's the one that wasn't centered on Pezzy's truck.

[laxman0324]

@zonian: I know all about the MAF's, pretty popular part to fail on my old Mercedes. Isn't there a specific cleaner for the MAF, i thought CRC made it? Are the metal prongs really that sensitive? My engine runs great on the highway, its my bushings that are giving me the death wobble at anything over 60, scary to drive.

 

@Simon: Thanks, I'll have to check that out next time I have it back home, I'm back at UMD now so I can't check it.

[mikeysentra]

Ok, Ive gotten a few things fixed, but now I have a small list of the last few things i need to fix...

 

1. I have something moving around in my front suspension/steering that moves whenever I go over a bumpy path of pavement or anything like that, and i can get it to move around at slow speeds if i turn the wheel back and forth... Anybody have any suggestions of what to look for?

 

2. During hard throttle, hard enough to keep it in the same gear, but not downshift (AT), the engine seems as though the power supply isn't constant, it seems to go in and out of throttle, if you watch the tach, you can see the tach rise, then pause for a second, and you can audibly hear the engine do it. Is this a sign of bad plugs? Throttle position sensor? anything else? I just had the oil changed and they didnt mention anything about sludge or anything, so I doubt its that.

 

3. Where is the TPS located, how hard is it to replace, and where is the best place to purchase it? Also, what are the symptoms of a bad TPS? My pathy idles at around 900 after warmed up and in park.

 

4. Where is the coolant temp sensor located, and all the same questions as above. My temp gauge is always right at the middle when warm, so does this mean that this sensor is fine or what?

 

Thanks for all your help in advance, I'm really loving this truck, but just wanna get it into the best running shape I can so I can get many good years out of it.

 

Mike

 

1. It sounds like bad upper bearings on the strut mounts to me. I would start looking there.

 

2. I had the same problem with my 97 pathy and I used CRC maf cleaner and sprayed the maf senser really good, but it was still there. I replaced the front 2 O2 sensors and it went away completely.

 

3. I would really doubt that the TPS sensor is bad.

 

4. if its a 3.3 the coolant sensor is located on the top front of the engine in the Aluminiun water pipe just behind the upper timing belt cover. just rember the one you want to change is the rear of the 2 sensors that are locater there the front one is the guage sensor. I just replaced mine and it was really easy to do. also picked up another MPG and it runs allot smoother. the guage has a seaperate sensor than the one that the computer reads, and if your guage is reading in the middle when fully warm than I wouldent replace it.

 

I would replace the O2 sensors, coolant sensor to the PCM and do a complete tune up, Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, PCV valve ect... I bet that after the tune up and sensors you will be running like new. But thats just my .02.

 

Mikeysentra

[laxman0324]

1. It sounds like bad upper bearings on the strut mounts to me. I would start looking there.

 

2. I had the same problem with my 97 pathy and I used CRC maf cleaner and sprayed the maf senser really good, but it was still there. I replaced the front 2 O2 sensors and it went away completely.

 

3. I would really doubt that the TPS sensor is bad.

 

4. if its a 3.3 the coolant sensor is located on the top front of the engine in the Aluminiun water pipe just behind the upper timing belt cover. just rember the one you want to change is the rear of the 2 sensors that are locater there the front one is the guage sensor. I just replaced mine and it was really easy to do. also picked up another MPG and it runs allot smoother. the guage has a seaperate sensor than the one that the computer reads, and if your guage is reading in the middle when fully warm than I wouldent replace it.

 

I would replace the O2 sensors, coolant sensor to the PCM and do a complete tune up, Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, PCV valve ect... I bet that after the tune up and sensors you will be running like new. But thats just my .02.

 

Mikeysentra

 

1. I checked like simon said and it all looks good in the fender under the hood, is there any way to check with the wheel off?

 

2. I guess I will replace the other O2 sensor, the right one was replaced right when i bought it. Now what purpose do the two rear O2 sensors serve?

 

And what is the cap, rotor, and PCV valve? Do you know of a good place to buy these parts? And how hard are they to do?

[mikeysentra]

1. I checked like simon said and it all looks good in the fender under the hood, is there any way to check with the wheel off?

 

2. I guess I will replace the other O2 sensor, the right one was replaced right when i bought it. Now what purpose do the two rear O2 sensors serve?

 

And what is the cap, rotor, and PCV valve? Do you know of a good place to buy these parts? And how hard are they to do?

 

1. I would have a friend or spose get in the car with the front jacked and secured on jack stands and have the person in the car turn the wheels lock to lock and listen for anything that sounds like rough or grinding bearings, also you can grab a hold of the spring and try to move the strut around. it there is play at the top of the strut assembly replace the top hat of the struts with new factory stuff as the aftermarket top hats are of poor quality. it you dont hear of feel andthing loose in the strut top hat, start looking for loose balljoints and tierod ends. it nothing there check the swaybar endlinks.

 

2. The rear O2's just tell the computer that the cats are working. they have no control of air fuel ratio.

 

3. The cap is the distibutor car and rotor. the rotor spins with the engine and sends spark to the cap and the car sends spark to the spark plugs. the PCV Valve is the posotive crankcase vent valve and is located in the valve cover.

 

What year pathy do you have? if it has a 3.5 it wont have a cap or rotor as it has coil on plug ignition. as for a good place to buy the parts I would go to autohauseaz.com and order them or go to the dealer and get them.

[laxman0324]

1. I would have a friend or spose get in the car with the front jacked and secured on jack stands and have the person in the car turn the wheels lock to lock and listen for anything that sounds like rough or grinding bearings, also you can grab a hold of the spring and try to move the strut around. it there is play at the top of the strut assembly replace the top hat of the struts with new factory stuff as the aftermarket top hats are of poor quality. it you dont hear of feel andthing loose in the strut top hat, start looking for loose balljoints and tierod ends. it nothing there check the swaybar endlinks.

 

2. The rear O2's just tell the computer that the cats are working. they have no control of air fuel ratio.

 

3. The cap is the distibutor car and rotor. the rotor spins with the engine and sends spark to the cap and the car sends spark to the spark plugs. the PCV Valve is the posotive crankcase vent valve and is located in the valve cover.

 

What year pathy do you have? if it has a 3.5 it wont have a cap or rotor as it has coil on plug ignition. as for a good place to buy the parts I would go to autohauseaz.com and order them or go to the dealer and get them.

 

I have a 97. I will def. look into replacing the rear coolant sensor, the other O2 sensor, and everything with the spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor...anything else i should do for the tune up? Im planning on doing the fuel filter and seafoaming to clean out carbon deposits.

 

Thanks for all your help.

[XPLORx4]

Ok, Ive gotten a few things fixed, but now I have a small list of the last few things i need to fix...

 

1. I have something moving around in my front suspension/steering that moves whenever I go over a bumpy path of pavement or anything like that, and i can get it to move around at slow speeds if i turn the wheel back and forth... Anybody have any suggestions of what to look for?

 

How do you know something "moves"? Lots of parts "move" when you steer and when the suspension flexes. Is there a clunk or rattle?

 

2. During hard throttle, hard enough to keep it in the same gear, but not downshift (AT), the engine seems as though the power supply isn't constant, it seems to go in and out of throttle, if you watch the tach, you can see the tach rise, then pause for a second, and you can audibly hear the engine do it. Is this a sign of bad plugs? Throttle position sensor? anything else? I just had the oil changed and they didnt mention anything about sludge or anything, so I doubt its that.

 

Quite possibly, this could be the normal operation of the torque converter. However, if acceleration is constant (i.e. speed continues to rise), but the transmission keeps slipping, it could be related to #3:

 

3. Where is the TPS located, how hard is it to replace, and where is the best place to purchase it? Also, what are the symptoms of a bad TPS? My pathy idles at around 900 after warmed up and in park.

 

The TPS is located on the left side of the throttle body (Blue connector near distributor cap in this pic). It has two connectors. It may simply be out of adjustment. There are some diagnostics here that can be run to check if it's working properly.

 

4. Where is the coolant temp sensor located, and all the same questions as above. My temp gauge is always right at the middle when warm, so does this mean that this sensor is fine or what?

The ECT sensor and the coolant temp gauge sender are two different connections. The gauge sender has just a single blade-style connector, while the ECT sensor has its own plug. Both are located on the manifold where the upper radiator hose attaches. You should note that the sensitivity of the temp gauge sender or the gauge itself is low. That is, the needle will stay in the middle of the gauge while the ECT sensor reports between 175°F and 225°F. The gauge will start to move noticeably higher than mid-way only when the temp starts to climb above that (as observed using a Scan-Gauge II).

[laxman0324]

How do you know something "moves"? Lots of parts "move" when you steer and when the suspension flexes. Is there a clunk or rattle?

Quite possibly, this could be the normal operation of the torque converter. However, if acceleration is constant (i.e. speed continues to rise), but the transmission keeps slipping, it could be related to #3:

The TPS is located on the left side of the throttle body (Blue connector near distributor cap in this pic). It has two connectors. It may simply be out of adjustment. There are some diagnostics here that can be run to check if it's working properly.

The ECT sensor and the coolant temp gauge sender are two different connections. The gauge sender has just a single blade-style connector, while the ECT sensor has its own plug. Both are located on the manifold where the upper radiator hose attaches. You should note that the sensitivity of the temp gauge sender or the gauge itself is low. That is, the needle will stay in the middle of the gauge while the ECT sensor reports between 175°F and 225°F. The gauge will start to move noticeably higher than mid-way only when the temp starts to climb above that (as observed using a Scan-Gauge II).

 

1. It is a clunking sound, definitely not a rattle...

 

2. I thought I read that the TPS is cheap to replace anyway, so I was just gonna do it along with the other sensors and all the spark plug related stuff

 

 

 

One other possible symptom I noticed, when I drive the truck for maybe 10 or 15 minutes, then go in a building for a couple mins and come back out, when i restart the pathy it starts at 1.5k then goes down to 1k then back up to 1.5k like someone is revving it and letting off. Don't know if this is normal or not but just stating.

[XPLORx4]

1. It is a clunking sound, definitely not a rattle...

 

Likely causes are loose swaybar links, worn swaybar bushings, worn or loose upper strut mount, worn ball joints, worn tie-rod ends. Without more details, it's hard to diagnose.

 

2. I thought I read that the TPS is cheap to replace anyway

 

Cheap or not, it still needs to be properly adjusted to operate properly. The TPS isn't like other sensors that are simply bolt-on-and-forget-about-it. Read the section about the TPS sensor in the link I posted earlier.

 

BTW, the PCV valve screws into the side of the intake plenum, just behind the throttle body. Look on the top of the manifold and locate the coolant air bleed screw (should have warning sticker saying "don't remove when hot" or something like that). Immediately below that screw is a coolant line, and just to the right of the coolant line is the PCV valve.

Edited January 28, 2008 by XPLORx4

[laxman0324]

Likely causes are loose swaybar links, worn swaybar bushings, worn or loose upper strut mount, worn ball joints, worn tie-rod ends. Without more details, it's hard to diagnose.

Cheap or not, it still needs to be properly adjusted to operate properly. The TPS isn't like other sensors that are simply bolt-on-and-forget-about-it. Read the section about the TPS sensor in the link I posted earlier.

 

ooooookkkkkkk...i started to last night and fell asleep reading it, but next time im home i will have to check that out and remove the skid plate and front bumper to find out about this clunking im getting (hopefully)

[tmorgan4]

Why are you worried about a 900rpm idle? I didn't have any issues with mine and it idled about there.

 

You can also adjust your idle air control valve, and the throttle body itself.

[laxman0324]

Why are you worried about a 900rpm idle? I didn't have any issues with mine and it idled about there.

 

You can also adjust your idle air control valve, and the throttle body itself.

 

Every other car I've been in idled between 600-750, I'm just making sure its not a symptom of a problem.

[tmorgan4]

Trying to adjust the TPS doesn't sound like a bad idea, but if that doesn't work there are several other things you can do. Report back if that doesn't help.