Parts Advice - Upgrade Things

[Kittamaru]

NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs - I have heard that Iridium spark plugs are a better choice over normal plugs... gotten this advice from my mechanic as well as a few other people I know who swear by them. Are they worth the slight price increase? If so, I'm all for em! Summit Racing - NGK Iridium Plugs

 

NGK Resistor Spark Plug Wire Sets - To compliment the new plugs, I figured it's time to replace my 18 year old spark plug wires. Are these worth their cost? I figured if I'm getting NGK plugs, may as well get their wires! Summit Racing - NGK Plug Wires

 

K&N Filtercharger Air Filters - I've seen this part advertised quite a lot and have heard many good things about it... figured I'd give it a try. Is it worth the price to get a quality air filter like this? Summit Racing - K&N Air Filter

 

NTK Oxygen Sensors - New oxygen sensors... after 18 years, is this a good thing to replace? Summit Racing - NTK Oxy Sensor

 

Pacesetter Headers - First heard about em here, tis why I was looking at Summit Racing in the first place. This kit has everything I need I think... just wanted to get an opinion. This is probably the single most expensive item on this list, so I wanted to be sure it's well worth it! Summit Racing - Pacesetter Headers

 

Tornado Air Management Systems - I've heard a lot about this thing... but I find their claims to be hard to swallow. Does this thing really make any difference, or is it all a bunch of smoke? Either way, figured it would be a good way to round out my air upgrades. Summit Racing - Tornado

 

K&N Performance Gold Oil Filters - To compliment the K&N Performance air filter, I'm looking at this oil filter. It has an anti-drainback valve that is supposed to help reduce oil flowback after engine shutdown, reducing the effect of cold starts. Is it worth the extra price? If so, I'll stock up on em for each oil change. Summit Racing - K&N Oil Filter

 

MagnaFlow Direct-Fit Catalytic Converters - I've read good things about this Cat on this site... and after 18 years, I'm sure mine is backed up as all hell... this a good buy? Summit Racing - Catalytic Converter

 

Rancho RS5000 Steering Stabilizers - I'm looking at this as an upgrade to my current steering setup. I don't do much heavy offroading... yet. I hope to once I have my truck up to snuff (eg, no longer plain jane stock) for doing such things. Looking for input on this kit Summit Racing Rancho RS5000 Steering Stabilizer

 

Rancho Shock Boots - One of these for the Steering Stabilizer, which doesn't come with one, but is recommended to be used with this to keep debris off of it. Summit Racing - Shock Boot

 

I'm looking at buying a full set of Rancho R5000 shocks... but I need the complete kit (Torsion bars, anti-sway bars, all four shocks, etc) I'm hoping this will have everything?

Rancho RCX + 4x RS9000XL shocks Can I get some feedback on this? Is 500 bucks worth this kit?

 

I also need new Torsion bars... are these worthwhile for 250 bucks? CALMINI Torsion Bars

 

I'm also looking at getting WARN Manual Locking Hubs... I think the 28 spline hubs are the right ones for a 1990 pathfinder? WARN Locking Hubs

Edited December 15, 2007 by Kittamaru

[GhostPath]

Don't you need to identify your engine first?

[Kittamaru]

Ack, sorry...

 

1990 Nissan Pathfinder, all stock or OEM Stock replacement parts (for things that wore out)

VG30E engine, supposedly stock (Running VIN tomorrow to make 100% sure)

 

I'm 99% sure those parts will fit the pathfinder, just curious as to if they're worth the cost.

[MikeV]

Ya need a tornado like another hole in your head, waste of money,

3" body lift makes alot of other upgrades MUCH easier(like headers) and is cheap.

Thorley headers from AC are much better tham Pacesetter (IMHO), also calmini steering upgrade (i also bought the calmini 3" suspension lift) worth it's weight in gold vs. the stock setup (if your taking her offroad much) new plugs and wires are always a good investment.

[Kittamaru]

So drop the tornado, add in a Calmini 3" body lift, trade the pacesetters for thorley's Aight

 

Any advice on the other parts?

[glenn]

my 1990 really woke up after Bosch +2 plugs were installed

[Kittamaru]

I heard that Iridium V-Series plugs are better than the Bosch +2's... is this true?

[RedPath88]

So drop the tornado, add in a Calmini 3" body lift, trade the pacesetters for thorley's Aight

 

Any advice on the other parts?

Not a "Calmini 3in Body Lift".. he was referring to the Calmini Steering Upgrade and a Calmini Suspension Lift, the Body Lifts (2in and 3in) are made by Performance Accessories. Trailmaster used to make them to, but I am not sure if they still do (PA & TM are both owned by the same parent company) TM's site links to the PA's site when you click body lifts.

 

Research suspension lift options before deciding what to buy, because there are other options as well

[headpeace]

last I checked (which was a while go) Steevo or Rugged Rocks had a good deal on Sway-Away T-bars, my 0.001 cents

[Kittamaru]

I dont' know much about T-Bars to be honest... any advice on what to look for?

[88pathoffroad]

My advice is that you likely don't need new t-bars unless you have a heavy front end with a winch bumper or winch. Stock t-bars work fine. Re-index them if you need more lift. I've run stock t-bars for years after reindexing with no problems.

[Kittamaru]

Uhm... my T-bars are shot to hell and back They're at max tension and they barely keep my front end from scraping the wheel well... yes, I need new t-bars. Beyond that, I don't know much about them

[RedPath88]

That's why everybody is suggesting that you try re-indexing the bars first

[Kittamaru]

Oh... uhm, what does re-indexing mean?

 

Looking it up... I just turn the bar a few splines downward so the anchor is lower than it should be?

 

Reading up on it... I'm seeing a lot of places where people say it just puts more strain on already weak torsion bars... I have my preload maxed out so I think my bars are just dead. Is it possible that re-indexing them could cause a break?

Edited December 18, 2007 by Kittamaru

[Earth1]

I dare you to try to break a torsion bar. Not saying it doesn't happen, but not common. It's way more likely the anchor will strip first; I've stripped 3 (stock tbars), and a guy I was wheeling with this weekend just stripped one. Yeah re-indexing is just like you said, the anchor will be lower than the crossmember until you tighten it.

 

There have been endless debates about plugs, but I like NGK. That's what about all Jap mech's use. I can't tell a difference with the high $ ones. The plug wires are definately worth it, NGK too, 8mm.

 

K&N yes

 

0x sensor yes

 

Pacesettters, can't speak for them. I have Thorleys and am totally happy.

 

I use the K&N oil filters and Mobil 1 synth. Those filters are high quality. You should look into using a K&N hp3003, for a ford application (bigger, more capacity) but it should have the same threads.

 

Magnaflow is another product I use. I have their cat and muffler, sound great... Still sounds Japanese but deeper than a ricer.

 

If you have stock steering, skip the stabilizer.

 

Hubs aren't one of the first mods I'd do, Warns are the standard though.

 

If you're doing this to wheel, I would consider steering and a rear locker as my first mods. That will get you by more Jeeps than anything. A lift will help a lot too; bigger tires are nice.

Edited December 18, 2007 by Earth1

[Kittamaru]

Actually, these are just stock parts of mine that are wearing out after 18 years and I'm looking at higher quality replacements.

 

So, to summarize so far:

 

YES to:

 

K&N air and oil filter

NGK Spark plugs and Wires

MagnaFlow Cat

NTK Oxygen Sensor

 

NO to:

Tornado

 

UNDECIDED:

WARN Manual Hubs

Steering Stabilizer

Pacesetter or Thorley headers

RS9000 RCX Remote Control Damping System

 

What are lockers... I'm assuming it refers to a replacement system for the differentials? I don't know if I'll need them... stock is what? Viscous Fluid diff or Limited Slip diff in the front and a locking rear diff?

 

As for the lift... maybe. I like my relatively low center of gravity though (as far as SUV's go anyway )

And don't bigger tires result in a loss of power without re-gearing?

Edited December 18, 2007 by Kittamaru

[Roost]

Buy my headers

[88pathoffroad]

I reindexed my saggy stock t-bars long, long ago and they still work great to this day. There is no worry of breaking them or overstressing them by reindexing. I don't know who told you that, but they're wrong. I've run mine reindexed for at least 4-5 years over some of the roughest terrain I could find.

 

What are lockers... I'm assuming it refers to a replacement system for the differentials? I don't know if I'll need them... stock is what? Viscous Fluid diff or Limited Slip diff in the front and a locking rear diff?

 

A Lock-Right locker replaces four spider gears in your rear diff and locks both axles together so when you hit the gas you spin both tires. LSD only goes so far in spinning tires. Oft-times a LSD will let one side go and you'll be sitting in one place spinning one tire, even with LSD. A front LSD was a VERY VERY rare factory option, rear is much more common. 99.99% of WD21's have an open front diff. Stock LSD's are clutch-type, a VLSD wouldn't work well on an offroad vehicle.

 

As for the lift... maybe. I like my relatively low center of gravity though (as far as SUV's go anyway )

 

You might like it for on-road driving, but the first time you go offroad and get hung up on something you'll wish for more ground clearance. Unless you're content to merely drive the gravel roads and paved highways...

 

 

And don't bigger tires result in a loss of power without re-gearing?

 

Yep. Re-gearing isn't really a viable option unless you have about $2000 to toss into the mix...

[Kittamaru]

I don't plan to do real heavy off roading... just the occasional mud puddle is fine for me right now I don't have the money to break my truck (still in college) so yeah

 

The Lockers will be something to look into Thanks for the advice!

 

As for reindexing, I need a good set of instructions on how to do this without a vehicle lift being available

[Kittamaru]

Alrighty, I'm set to order the Torsion Bars now... I tried to reindex them, but it was no go without a lift. My mechanic isn't willing to do it (liability issues or some crap) and without a lift I'm kinda SOL. Do I want the Calmini or the Sway-Away T-bars?

[Earth1]

I still don't see why you can't get the stock tbars to lift. Did you take the tbar out of the anchor and move it over a couple of splines?

[88pathoffroad]

FYI: removing and reinstalling new t-bars involves nearly the exact same amount of work as reindexing them.

 

Should I crawl under my Pathy and take more pics for a How-To on reindexing? heh

[Kittamaru]

The problem is, I don't have the tools to do it myself, and my mechanic isn't willing to do it for liability issues.

 

By "tools" I mean I have a jack, some cinderblock, and a bunch of hand tools... but I don't think I can release the tension... all the re-indexing guides I've seen online involve either a vehicle lift or a come-along to get the old t-bars out and then back in. I don't even have anything I could fashion the come-along to short of another vehicle... and I'd be taking up my entire driveway to do that. Can't do it in the garage as it has a low ceiling

 

@ 88 - If you're truly willing to write and illustrate a step-by-step how to on re-indexing I'd be extremely grateful. However, I will not ask you to do that simply for my sake... only do it if you really want to.

[RedPath88]

Replacing/reindexing torsion bars is not hard at all... you release the tension by backing off the adjusters.

 

To remove the T-bars all you really need is a jack, something to support the truck (jack stands, cinder blocks, blocks of wood, etc) two 19mm wrenches or one wrench and a 19mm socket, along with a couple 14mm and 12mm wrenches or one each along with sockets.

 

I guess a lift would allow you to stand under the truck, but is not needed... and a come-a-long? I have no idea why you might need one of them

[Kittamaru]

*shrugs* that's what I was wondering mate... the guides I'm finding are for like, Toyota's and Fords... i can't find a good Nissan guide.

 

Hell, I probably wouldn't need pictures if it was concise and well written... just that, like I said, I can't find a good one for a 1990 Pathy and I'm afraid to break something.