95 pathfinder rear disc caliper removal

[in2challenges]

Trying to figure out exactly how the upper caliper pin (the one that the caliper pivots on for pad replacement) is removed on the 95 pathfinder rear disc brake (or how the caliper comes off the pin). There doesn't appear to be a bolt head on it, although that is what the service manual shows.

 

Need to remove calipers...but don't want to put a lot of force on it before I know how it normally comes off...

[91path]

Trying to figure out exactly how the upper caliper pin (the one that the caliper pivots on for pad replacement) is removed on the 95 pathfinder rear disc brake (or how the caliper comes off the pin). There doesn't appear to be a bolt head on it, although that is what the service manual shows.

 

Need to remove calipers...but don't want to put a lot of force on it before I know how it normally comes off...

there are 2 big ol 5/8? in bolts holding the caliper on the

iner side of the disc gaurd. i used an impact gun and

they came right out.

 

hey if your only replacing the pads the caliper

does not need to be removed. take out the lower

guide pin bolt,then swing pad braket plate up to

remove the pads.

Edited October 23, 2007 by 91path

[in2challenges]

there are 2 big ol 5/8? in bolts holding the caliper on the

iner side of the disc gaurd. i used an impact gun and

they came right out.

 

hey if your only replacing the pads the caliper

does not need to be removed. take out the lower

guide pin bolt,then swing pad braket plate up to

remove the pads.

 

 

Thanks for the reply! Actually, my problem is that on one side the pivot has rusted/snapped off the bracket (the one held onto the axle w/ the 2 bolts). The other caliper just has rusted/seized pins that would need to be replaced.

 

Does the cast bracket that mounts to the axle normally come with new/rebuilt calipers? If so, I'll just go that route.

[peejay]

Just stumbling upon this myself. I'm guessing the caliper can pivot on that pin, but the pivot pin cannot be removed? The floating caliper, and the caliper mount, are one assembly, and to remove the caliper, you have to remove the mount, by those 2 large bolts (17mm socket)
@in2challenges mentioned?

 

Edited August 6, 2024 by peejay
(added socket size)

[hawairish]

Very old post, but I'll play along.

 

The circled part is just a dust cap.  I've rebuilt two sets of these in fairly recent memory for my disc swap projects and I don't recall ever removing it.  If I remember correctly, there's a small-head bolt inside that holds the slide pin sleeve and gets tightened into the bracket.  It's just suction that makes it feel difficult to remove.  The caliper can pivot on it.  Once the caliper is pulled off the pin, the bolt head is exposed. 

[peejay]

5 hours ago, hawairish said:

Very old post, but I'll play along.

 

The circled part is just a dust cap.  I've rebuilt two sets of these in fairly recent memory for my disc swap projects and I don't recall ever removing it.  If I remember correctly, there's a small-head bolt inside that holds the slide pin sleeve and gets tightened into the bracket.  It's just suction that makes it feel difficult to remove.  The caliper can pivot on it.  Once the caliper is pulled off the pin, the bolt head is exposed. 

Thanks, hawairish!

 

So to remove the caliper (well, I actually need to remove the rotor) do you recommend removing the dust cap (and ifo so, does it pop/pry off?) and getting to the bolt underneath, or is it better to remove the two large bolts that secure the caliper to the backing plate? Or just remove the one (exposed) bolt, and the caliper should be able to be pulled off, no need to mess with that dust cap at all?

 

(Also, I've been following/studying your writeup on the R50/D22 disc swap, thanks! That's what's led me to reviving this old post!)

Edited August 4, 2024 by peejay

[hawairish]

4 hours ago, peejay said:

Thanks, hawairish!

 

So to remove the caliper (well, I actually need to remove the rotor) do you recommend removing the dust cap (and ifo so, does it pop/pry off?) and getting to the bolt underneath, or is it better to remove the two large bolts that secure the caliper to the backing plate? Or just remove the one (exposed) bolt, and the caliper should be able to be pulled off, no need to mess with that dust cap at all?

 

(Also, I've been following/studying your writeup on the R50/D22 disc swap, thanks! That's what's led me to reviving this old post!)

 

I'd say removing the dust cap should be the last of the 3 options, if an option at all.  I think it's kind of crimped or pinched on, so I don't think it'll just snap back on...you might need to dent it back on.

 

If you don't need to service the caliper, I'd probably just unbolt the bracket and leave the caliper intact...but juggling the pads can be a little bit of a pain sometimes so undoing the exposed bolt, rotating the caliper, and pulling the pads seems to be an middle option.

[peejay]

Will do, thanks!

 

(Thanks for the tip about how the dust cap is attached, I will not be opening that can of worms!)

Edited August 5, 2024 by peejay

[adamzan]

If you're just swapping the pads, just undo the one bolt and swing the caliper up. No need to do any more.

 

I stocked up on a couple sets of rotors as they are getting harder to get up here.