Roost Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 (edited) It's a 95 V6 with automatic transmission and transfer case. I am in the process of removing engine, tranny and transfer case. I am at the point of separating the tranny from the engine and it seem impossible to remove the bolts from the torque converter. Do I have to access these bolts through the hole for the starter or does the tranny just slip away from the engine without separating the flex plate from the torque converter? All the manuals that I have,Chilton's, Haynes or the Service Manual, none say to remove the flex from the torque converter. None of them really say much after remove starter then remove transmission bell housing bolts/transmission. Semper Fi Edited October 11, 2007 by Roost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 (edited) there are 2 bolts you access (they're HARD to spot) from the brass lookin "plates" each side of the bell housing....... one ont he starter side and 1 or 2 on the driver side..... bell housing will not seperate until these 2 (or is it 3) bolts are removed. hard to see, but with LONG extensions, easy enough to get out if not over torqued. they FACE the bell housing. feel around, you'll get em, also, there is 1 x 10mm ON TOP of the bell housing that needs to be removed before it will seperate.. sucker got me first time lol (i am less than sober, so don't expect specifics) Edited October 11, 2007 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 there is an access plate that you need to remove. Take a look at a real FSM and it will help. The 95 FSM was just an update to the 94 and I don;t have it hosted right now but grab this 1994_Full_FSM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted October 11, 2007 Author Share Posted October 11, 2007 there is an access plate that you need to remove. Take a look at a real FSM and it will help. The 95 FSM was just an update to the 94 and I don;t have it hosted right now but grab this 1994_Full_FSM OK....first, thank you for the download... Second...I am still looking for the gusset that has to be removed. The pic shows what looks like the hole left by the starter after being removed, but is what I can only imagine it is the gusset that I cannot locate. Can you tell me where this gusset is located on the engine i.e. the D/S or P/S...above the or below the?...Third... I have the FSM in paper back and on CD and now downloaded to this computer. BTW...the 95 supplement had nothing on the transmission removal from what I recall. All the manuals and Pathfinder are at a friends house where the work is being done. I'm SOOO tired...engine and transmission swap and a 2 week old baby...our third....I'm . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 Access to the torque converter bolts is through the starter hole. Somehow you have to attempt to prevent the engine from turning over while also attempting to remove the loc-tited bolts one at a time. The trans will come off without unbolting the TC, though. The gusset is a flat plate that goes between the engine and trans, you can't take that out till the trans is pulled off the TC far enough. Make sure all the bolts are out and make sure the top of the trans isn't hitting the floor anywhere and preventing it from moving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 you can remove the TC with the engine removed if you like but yea you need to access them from the front side of the engine (heres the link to I'm a Dumbass thread on getting the TC out http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...rter&st=20) ...I hadn't ever dropped an auto B4 and didn't know any better so the TC stayed with the engine until I needed it off to put it in my manual 87 theres 4 PITA bolts front side as slick mentioned and then I think theres 11 on the tranny side but that could be wrong...I would leave some of those threaded in partially until you have everything loose and are read for it to come out...it would be a bad day if it happened to fall on you also make sure you have all the electrical stuff disconnected and of course your drive shafts out of there along with everything else but I'm sue you've done all that already Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 there's one particular one on top of the tranny that is a PITA to get at unless you're willing to get shoulder deep into it from underneath. My only suggestion for this job is to make sure you ahve an ample supply of extensions and a couple u-joints for your socket set Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted October 11, 2007 Author Share Posted October 11, 2007 all right...let's see if this works....I am heading over there to get this AT out. Let me make sure I understand this correctly...I loosen all the bell housing bolts and slightly separate the AT and the engine, accessing the plate and the bolts. Then unbolt the flex plate from the TC through the starter hole using a 14 mm socket on about 2 feet of extensions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted October 11, 2007 Author Share Posted October 11, 2007 Everything is on hold until Monday. I'm still collecting information to hit it hard next week. I may look at getting a couple hours on Sat., well...probably not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 When I pulled the A/T and t-case from the 89 I had, I just took out the trans-to-engine bolts and wiggled it backwards until it came off. Then I attacked the torque converter through the starter hole. Those bolts were TIGHT and there's very little room to get leverage with. I suggest having someone help you by putting a socket on the crank bolt to keep the engine from turning over while you loosen the TC bolts. There's no real easy way to do it alone without it becoming a REAL PITA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted October 12, 2007 Author Share Posted October 12, 2007 OK...so its a PITA...got that. Removing the transmission/transfer case with removing the TC/flex plate, doable? If so, would working on the TC/flex plate be easier once the engine is removed? Yes I am removing/replacing the engine for a LOW mileage engine after a few upgrades. Time was not on my side when I planned and purchased the engine, transmission and transfer case. So pulling and rebuilding was not an option. Things changed and I am not sure items can be returned. Oh well...huh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 (edited) TC/flex plate be easier once the engine is removed? yea...its really easy with air tools... If you check out my link above you will see kinda that it was post removal...I would love to have your engine as a spare but now instead of being an hr away I'm about 35 hrs away honestly if you just have a RMS leaking and the engine has less that 300k on it and it hasnt given you a lick of problems...me personally I wouldnt swap it...I would just replace the RMS and other gaskets as required...but thats me...I bought my 87 with 192k on it and drove it till it had something like 250k where the engine broke for the 2nd time (both breaks were my fault) even though it was knocking like a SOB it still had great compression...so I have good faith in the nissan engine...just make sure you saw the engine your replacing yours with either bench tested or driven and then removed or they have some warranty but it would really suck to do all that work to turn around and have to remove it again...been there done that and it sucks...if the engine has sat for a while that your are replacing with...change the oil pump I know a guy that did 4 swaps in 1 HB (they own a JY) and he had 3 oil pumps go bad just from sitting and had to do it 4 times before they got it done and sold...sorry to jack the thread but I just figured it could be valued information b/c sometimes what you have already is better... Edited October 12, 2007 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 I stuck a screw driver in the flywheel teeth... If you want PM me and I call and talk you through it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted October 12, 2007 Author Share Posted October 12, 2007 ...just make sure you saw the engine your replacing yours with either bench tested or driven and then removed or they have some warranty but it would really suck to do all that work to turn around and have to remove it again... The engine came from a reputable engine dealer that came from a high recommendation from a good friend that I trust. The guy that I bought it from said he has never had any problems with any of his engines and stands behind his product. He also knows that I work for the Sheriff's office and would probably like to stay out of jail . Seriously though, these are good people that seem to want to do more business down the road. I did just get off the phone with him though and he said that I could return the engine if I wanted to, that's a good thing. Semper Fi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted October 13, 2007 Share Posted October 13, 2007 coo coo...yea i'm used to bad luck so it would be a great engine and something would happen and I'd get it in and go 20 miles down the road and blow something that was terminal I still cant tell if its blue smoke or not on that 95 that I dropped into my 87...I'm thinking its valve seals if it is but I hope thats all it is and not the rings... good luck...anymore progress on getting it out and apart? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted October 13, 2007 Author Share Posted October 13, 2007 I had to take a couple days off and recoupe from the truck and the baby, at least a little. I will be going back at it Monday afternoon, since it finally decided to be fall and not summer this past week. I picked up a offset 14mm wrench hoping it might be easier, at a minimum, I bought a new tool. I have been taking pics and will try a post a report later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted October 14, 2007 Author Share Posted October 14, 2007 I stuck a screw driver in the flywheel teeth... If you want PM me and I call and talk you through it.... I thank you for your offer. I have a mechanic helping me out, at his house. He knows Honda's 8 different ways from tomorrow, so he looking for the challenge of the PF. We are both having a lot of "fun" doing this engine and transmission swap. I get to find more things that I didn't know where a problem and really stress out the Visa. Just ordered and bought two exhaust bracket that had broken long ago that attached to the muffler and behind the cat. I also broke the horn while removing exhaust manifold bolts. One more thing to now replace . We'll see how things go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 We are both having a lot of "fun" doing this engine and transmission swap. Hey at least you got some help...dropping and pulling and then replacing by yourself is no fun good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted October 14, 2007 Author Share Posted October 14, 2007 Hey at least you got some help...dropping and pulling and then replacing by yourself is no fun good luck Doing it alone is just plain suicide...and no fun. It's always more fun to have someone hear the new curse words you come up with when the O2 sensor won't come off and now is a bright, shinny and shred of a mess still stuck. Still looking for any other suggestions for removing the flex plate from the TQ and how to get it back together. I can get anything apart, but getting it back together correctly is a whole other challenge. Semper Fi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted October 16, 2007 Author Share Posted October 16, 2007 OK...the engine and transmission are out successfully. I used a 14mm offset wrench to get the flex plate bolts out and it worked like a charm. Of course, my buddy was holding the crank at the same time, which made this possible. Now I get to swich all the parts over from the old engine to the new engine and the same for the transmission. Getting it back together is going to be the trick for me, as I dropped one of the flex plate bolts into the bell housing, which did not come out until I remove the tranny completely. This will suck if I drop one during installation. ANY SUGGESTIONS? I would magnetize my finger tips, but I don't know how, yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted October 16, 2007 Author Share Posted October 16, 2007 Also finally got the O2 sensor off. Required putting the torch to get it cherry red hot and a pair of vise grips and a hammer. Now I just need to find a tap big enough to re-thread the hole in the exhaust. During removal, the threads from the sensor decided that they wanted to stay in the exhaust. Damn loyalty. But it is off and now I can take it to the local machine shop and have it rethreaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 As for putting it all back together... Just take your time, check and double check... Once you light up that new engine it will be time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 This will suck if I drop one during installation. ANY SUGGESTIONS? I would magnetize my finger tips, but I don't know how, yet. put it on B4 putting it in the engine/tranny? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted October 17, 2007 Author Share Posted October 17, 2007 put it on B4 putting it in the engine/tranny? Won't that tear up the TQ seal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 Hey man I feel your pain, I just pulled my trans by myself too. The screwdriver in the flywheel trick works great if you're working alone. There is a nice hole in the crossmember that will lodge a screwdriver beautifully. I would think the seal would be fine. If you were to drop a bolt in a tight spot, you can magnatize a tool by rubbing it on a magnet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now