Head Teardown

[ILoveMyPatty]

Well... I don't even really know what I'm doing here... but I've got another engine coming to replace this one anyway.

I wanted to check out my valves, see if any are bent or if there is any sort of damage in the head and if that was the case, to replace them and see if that resolved the ticking sound. If so, then I wouldn't swap in my other motor, and I'd do something else with that one... So, I got out the Chiltons and went to the head teardown section. This is where I'm at right now, I don't have the right tool to get the head bolts out, so I'm haulted right now. If you guys and gals see anything that doesn't look right, tell me... or have any suggestions.

My oil is so nasty from the water... yuck. This is after I swamped it in a pond, by the way... I think most of you know about that incident

Here's the pic of where I'm at right now.

[mws]

Correction: You DO know what you're doing here - you're LEARNING! And good on ya for that! We all knew nothing at birth...

 

It'll be easier to see damage once you get the head off.

 

The special tool you need? Just get a big allen (hex) wrench in the size you need (was it 10 mm?), cut off the long leg before the elbow, and slip it inside the correct size socket.

 

Once you get the head off, start by looking for gaps between the valves and their seats. Or just fill the ports with water. If the valves are bent, the water will leak between the valve and its seat.

Also look for vent holes in the top of the pistons....

[GhostPath]

When you hydrolock an engine, typically the damage is to the *bottom* end, not the top - usually things like bent rods.

[ILoveMyPatty]

Thanks mws. I thought everyone was going to wonder why the hell I would take apart my engine without really knowing what I'm doing. I don't really know the definition of hydrolock.. all I know is that my engine ticks really badly but still runs, and smells a bit rich.

[jj big shoe]

I don't really know the definition of hydrolock..

Its when you fill the combustion chamber with water. The air/fuel mix that's supposed to be there will compress when the piston comes up and the valves are closed. But since liquid doesn't compress, if you suck too much water into the cylinder through your air intake something's gotta give once the piston starts its upward travel on the compression stroke.

[ILoveMyPatty]

So most likely not a valve then?

[GhostPath]

No, it's more likely a damaged piston or bent rod.

[ILoveMyPatty]

Dangit, that makes me sad. I can't check those two out without pulling the engine, can I?

[GhostPath]

Dangit, that makes me sad. I can't check those two out without pulling the engine, can I?

 

 

You might be able to spot a hole in a piston by taking the heads off, but you can't really check the rods without dismounting the engine.

 

If you stalled out the engine in water to the point where it locked up and wouldn't turn until you pulled the spark plugs out to let the water leave, then you bent a rod.

Edited August 2, 2007 by GhostPath

[ILoveMyPatty]

I hit the water and the engine died. My battery ring terminals were loose (at least the positive one was). My battery instantly died for some reason, and I had no lights at all, but it would slowwwwwwwly charge up. We towed it out and thought that it was just my battery that died, so we hooked up the cables and let it charge for a bit. I checked the dipstick and there was no water that I could see, and the air filter was wet. Pulled the filter and started it up. Water pumped out my exhaust for a bit (but I've got lots of holes in it....). And the engine ticked.

I didn't have to pull the plugs and drain the water to have it start.

 

I probably messed something up when I started it without draining what should have been drained.

 

Now what does it sound like got damaged? heheh....

[GhostPath]

I hit the water and the engine died. My battery ring terminals were loose (at least the positive one was). My battery instantly died for some reason, and I had no lights at all, but it would slowwwwwwwly charge up. We towed it out and thought that it was just my battery that died, so we hooked up the cables and let it charge for a bit. I checked the dipstick and there was no water that I could see, and the air filter was wet. Pulled the filter and started it up. Water pumped out my exhaust for a bit (but I've got lots of holes in it....). And the engine ticked.

I didn't have to pull the plugs and drain the water to have it start.

 

I probably messed something up when I started it without draining what should have been drained.

 

Now what does it sound like got damaged? heheh....

 

 

Same as before - piston or rod.

[mws]

I would have to agree. Also possible the damage was to a con rod bearing. But something changed shape!

 

On the positive side, you have to remove this engine to install the new. When you're done, you can dissect this one for more education. Post photos and questions and I'll teach as much as I am able... I know others will as well. And of course, many others will be vicariously learning from our discussions!

[Casey.T]

If you learn on the broken engine... It will make putting the new one back in easier

 

Lots of us have pulled these motors for various reasons, we all have different tips...

 

You will have lots of fun, and if you get stuck and cant find it here already or in the FSM/Chilton/Haynes we will be happy to assist, after the usual bashing we will give you

[GhostPath]

If you do decide to take the heads off this one anyway, make sure you do it in the reverse of the torque down order to make sure the head doesn't warp.

 

In other words, if the manual tells you to torque down bolts in 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8 order, loosen them in 8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1.

Edited August 2, 2007 by GhostPath

[94extreme]

he could loosein them 1-2-3-4-5-6 and be just fine too, no?

 

and here is my advice... :sea... ah, never mind.

 

 

mws, "a con rod bearing" huh? it could just be a bad crank bearing.. that would surely make it knock (slap)

[Slick]

BTW. i bought my allen socket from autozone for about $10. i am 99% sure it was a 14mm.

 

an "allen socket" is a socket that fits on your ratchet with an "allen head" at the other end ..... perfect (and the right tool) for the head bolts.

[jj big shoe]

BTW. i bought my allen socket from autozone for about $10. i am 99% sure it was a 14mm.

*runs out to garage* It's a 10mm.

[ILoveMyPatty]

Of course now that I get half of the head taken apart, they finally get the engine ready to be picked up at the wrecker... Looks like the head's getting assembled again and the whole engine is coming out.

[unccpathfinder]

tip #1 in pulling the engine...dont drop the front axle on ure finger it hurts

tip #2 take your time

tip #3 change the timing belt, rear main seal, oil pan gasket and everything else that could possibly go bad before installing the engine its a lot easier to work on outside the truc

 

if the air filter was not wet I'm going to go with there wasnt any water pulled into the engine but when it was cranked without the air filter it sucked some nasties into the engine and either welded to the piston or hammered out a bearing (check the heads and pistons for interference scars)

 

But since liquid doesn't compress

 

not a completely true statement...at the right conditions water can even be compressed

Edited August 5, 2007 by unccpathfinder