Steering woes

[Black1]

Ok, new here.

 

I have a '95 SE. Original owner. 188K w/JDM replacement engine. I just replaced the upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, center link and wheel bearings. The control arm bushings look fine. (BTW, don't pry the oil seal off the back of the knuckle if you don't have to. That's a $35 seal - Doh!) The needle bearings looked ok so I didn't replace them.

 

I pressed in new races for the wheel bearings and the wheel exhibits zero bearing play. The problem is I still have play in the wheel. Grab the wheel at 3 and 9 and I get a good 1/2" of movement easily. I'm running out of things to replace. Any ideas?

 

I did a search and got ideas of more to look at, just wondered if anyone has experience.

 

TIA

[John Boy]

My 95 XE has a fair amount of play in the steering also...I read in one post to replace the front and rear sway bar end link bushings. I haven't tried it so I don't know if that would help tighten up the steering.

[Animal]

Recirculating-ball steering has some inherent play. Up to 1.38 inches is within spec. for Pathys. If it is more than this, first make certain where the play is coming from. This really take 2 people; one to turn the wheel and the other to watch. If the Pitman arm doesn't move as soon as it should, the steering box may be worn and in need of adjustment or replacement. Next, check the link (a.k.a. relay) rod ends and the idler arm (one of the weakest parts of our steering systems). The tie rod ends would be next, but you've already replaced them.

[jj big shoe]

Grab the steering shaft and give it a twist. Mine spins a bit before it starts to move the gear in the steering box. There's another post that talked about an adjustment screw, but it didn't go into details about how to do it correctly. If someone knows how to take the slop out please post it.

[Animal]

Refer to the FSM (it's available to download for free somewhere). The adjustments are bench preload adjustments, done with the steering gear (box) removed. Personally, I've only messed with steering boxes on old ('60s) US cars and have yet to do a Pathy. It doesn't look difficult, though you should plan to spend a weekend on it and be prepared for longer outage in case your inspection reveals replacement parts are needed. If money isn't a consideration, you could replace the whole box as a unit, but they ain't cheap.

Edited March 25, 2007 by Animal

[Black1]

Recirculating-ball steering has some inherent play. Up to 1.38 inches is within spec. for Pathys.

 

I'm not talking about the steering wheel - I'm talking about jack up the front end, grab the front tire at 3 and 9 and I've got 1/2" of movement easily. That can't be right.

 

There's gotta be a way I can tighten it up. I'll keep working at it.

[BLouisGod]

I had this issue, a new centerlink cured it.

[88pathoffroad]

Have someone else move the steering wheel back and forth for you while you inspect the steering parts. It should be fairly evident where the slop is. The idler arm could have shot bushings.

[Animal]

I'm not talking about the steering wheel - I'm talking about jack up the front end, grab the front tire at 3 and 9 and I've got 1/2" of movement easily. That can't be right.

 

There's gotta be a way I can tighten it up. I'll keep working at it.

:o Oh, my mistake. In that case follow it backward starting with the idler arm as 88 suggested. That is unless you also have the same play top an bottom. Top to bottom would most likely be whatever you haven't replaced in the from suspension - control arm bushings maybe? If it is, I can give you some tips; like

- ES has poly bushings

- order the bolt, believe it is called a "rod" or "pin" for the lower control arm before you start. They aren't cheap (MSRP arounf $25 each, available for around $16 if you shop and have time).

- if the bolt/pin/rod is seized, don't fight it, cut it (Oxy/Acetylene works if you are good and careful)

- be prepared for the job from hell

- good news is if you decide to do the rear bushing as well, they will seem easy afterward

[sw]

I'm not talking about the steering wheel - I'm talking about jack up the front end, grab the front tire at 3 and 9 and I've got 1/2" of movement easily. That can't be right.

 

There's gotta be a way I can tighten it up. I'll keep working at it.

when you move the wheel with the front jacked up it is quite possible that the centre link has/is rotating on it own axis allowing the wheel to move slightly. you've replaced a good chunk of stuff i would start with first, so with that in toe it sounds like this could be your casue. unfortunately this is a problem with the way the steering is designed. there are solutions available to you but i beleive all the options are not steet legal.

approx a month ago i did a home grown solution to this and it worked very well, better than i had hoped actually - i was pounding it hard enough that both lower arm torsion bar collars stripped but the steering held up & in particular no bent tie rod ends.

 

i will also add that the idler arm is a particular weak spot on the steering. the arm itself can bend & also the 2 plastic bushes internally can flog out along with the internal shaft wearing. theres many references on here to an idler brace, could be worth looking into.

Edited March 26, 2007 by sw