unccpathfinder Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 alright a good friend of mine busted the engine in his cherokee (the inline 6) and i have told him i would help him do a swap (so he can learn some stuff and save some $) but i have no idea how complex it is...its a 2wd so i imagine it would be a lot easier than the good ole wd21's just curious if any have experience in this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 Nope... What year, that may help people answer. I'd recommend going to a Jeep site... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 Unfortunately, I have some experience here. I haven't pulled the entire engine, but I did pull manifolds. 3 times. And head. They are not that hard, but a lot harder than they should be given the amount of space under the hood. Let's just say they are NOT designed to be worked on. Prepare to learn how to bend your fingers backwards, and expect to discover bolts that are ridiculously difficult to reach... Keep your sense of humor about you, be patient, and learn to laugh rather than scream at some of the things Jeep did... But good on ya for helping a buddy out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 (edited) See if this helps... This is for a 91 cherokee 4.0... REMOVAL Disconnect the battery cables. Remove the battery. Mark the hinge locations on the hood panel for alignment reference during installation. Remove the engine compartment lamp. Remove the hood. WARNING: The coolant in a recently operated engine is HOT AND PRESSURIZED. Use care to prevent scalding by hot coolant. Carefully release the pressure BEFORE removing the radiator draincock and cap . Remove the radiator drain **** and radiator cap to drain the coolant. NOTE: DO NOT waste usable coolant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse. Remove the lower radiator hose. Remove the upper radiator hose and coolant recovery hose. Remove upper radiator support retaining bolts and remove radiator support. Remove the fan shroud and electric cooling fan. Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler tubing (automatic transmission). Disconnect radiator fan switch wire connector. Vehicles with Air Conditioning: Discharge the A/C condenser. Remove the service valves and cap the compressor ports. Remove the radiator or radiator and condenser (if equipped with A/C). Remove the fan assembly from the idler pulley Disconnect the heater hoses at the engine thermostat housing and water pump. Disconnect the throttle linkages. Disconnect the speed control cable (if equipped). Disconnect the line pressure cable (if equipped with automatic transmission). Disconnect injection system wire harness connector at the dash panel. Disconnect the distributor electrical connection and the oil pressure switch connector. Perform the Fuel System Pressure Release procedure. Refer to Powertrain Management/Fuel Delivery and Air Induction/Service and Repair. Disconnect the quick-connect fuel lines at the fuel rail and return line by squeezing the two retaining tabs against the fuel tube. Pull the fuel tube and retainer from the quick-connect fitting. Refer to Powertrain Management/Fuel Delivery and Air Induction/Service and Repair for the proper procedure. Remove the fuel line bracket from the intake manifold. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Remove the power brake vacuum check valve from the booster, if equipped. If equipped with power steering: Disconnect the hoses from the fittings at the steering gear. Drain the pump reservoir. Cap the fittings on the hoses and steering gear to prevent foreign objects from entering the system. Identify, tag and disconnect all necessary wire connectors and vacuum hoses. Raise and support the vehicle. Disconnect the wires from the starter motor solenoid. Remove the starter motor. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold. Disconnect the engine speed sensor wire connection. Remove the exhaust pipe support. Remove the flywheel and converter housing access cover. Vehicles with Automatic Transmission: Mark the converter and drive plate location. Remove the converter-to-drive plate bolts. Remove the upper flywheel and converter housing bolts and loosen the bottom bolts. Remove the engine mount cushion-to-engine compartment bracket bolts. Lower the vehicle. Attach a lifting device to the engine. Raise the engine off the front supports. Place a support or floor jack under the converter (or flywheel) housing. Remove the remaining converter (or flywheel) housing bolts. Lift the engine out of the engine compartment Appox. book time is about 12 hours. Edited March 10, 2007 by 5523Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pavelow Leaks Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 If you were really trying to help him, you'd get him into a pathfinder! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 See if this helps... This is for a 91 cherokee 4.0... Appox. book time is about 12 hours. any idea if this is the same procedure for a 98? and the 12h time, is that just for the removal? daumn if it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 12 hours total to R&R engine I swap parts for a long block assembly. I will check the 98 later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 91-92 are the same. Heres some pics....well, drawings... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 Pic 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 pic 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 pic 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 & pic 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 (edited) Here is for the 98. Most of it the same, some different. The pics posted shoulb be about the same. This also includes installation directions. REMOVAL Disconnect the battery cables. Remove the battery. Mark the hinge locations on the hood panel for alignment reference during installation. Remove the engine compartment lamp. Remove the hood. WARNING: The Coolant In A Recently Operated Engine Is Hot And Pressurized. Use Care To Prevent Scalding By Hot Coolant. Carefully Release The Pressure Before Removing The Radiator Drain **** And Cap. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Loosen the radiator drain **** and radiator cap to drain the coolant. DO NOT waste usable coolant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse. Remove the lower radiator hose. Remove the upper radiator hose and coolant recovery hose. Remove upper radiator support retaining bolts and remove radiator support. Remove the fan shroud and electric cooling fan. Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler tubing (automatic transmission). Disconnect radiator fan switch wire connector. Vehicles with Air Conditioning: a) Discharge A/C system. Disconnect the suction/discharge hose and cap off compressor ports to prevent foreign material and refrigerant oil loss. Remove the radiator or radiator and condenser (if equipped with A/C). Remove the fan assembly from the idler pulley. Disconnect the heater hoses at the engine thermostat housing and water pump. Disconnect the throttle cable. Disconnect the speed control cable (if equipped). Disconnect the line pressure cable (if equipped with automatic transmission). Disconnect the fuel injector harness at the injectors. Disconnect the distributor electrical connection and the oil pressure switch connector. WARNING: The Fuel System Is Under A Constant Pressure (even With The Engine Turned Off). Before Disconnecting Fuel Lines, The Fuel System Pressure Must Be Released Perform the Fuel System Pressure Release procedure. Remove the latch clip and disconnect fuel supply line. Remove the power brake vacuum check valve from the booster, if equipped. If equipped with power steering: a) Disconnect the hoses from the fittings at the steering gear. Drain the pump reservoir. c) Cap the fittings on the hoses and steering gear to prevent foreign objects from entering the system. Identify, tag and disconnect all necessary wire connectors and vacuum hoses. Raise and support the vehicle. Disconnect the wires from the starter motor solenoid. Remove the starter motor. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold. Disconnect the engine speed sensor wire connection. Remove the exhaust pipe Support. Remove the flywheel and converter housing access cover. Vehicles with Automatic Transmission: a) Mark the converter and drive plate location. Remove the converter-to-drive plate bolts. Remove the upper flywheel and converter housing bolts and loosen the bottom bolts. Remove the engine mount cushion-to-engine compartment bracket bolts. Lower the vehicle. Attach a lifting device to the engine. Raise the engine off the front supports. Place a support or floor jack under the converter (or flywheel) housing. Remove the remaining converter (or flywheel) housing bolts. Lift the engine out of the engine compartment. INSTALLATION CAUTION: When installing the engine into a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission, be careful not to damage the trigger wheel on the flywheel. Attach a lifting device to the engine and lower the engine into the engine compartment. For easier installation, it may be necessary to remove the engine mount cushions from the engine mount bracket as an aide in alignment of the engine to the transmission. Vehicles with Manual Transmission: a) Insert the transmission shaft into the clutch spune. Align the flywheel housing with the engine. c) Install and tighten the flywheel housing lower bolts finger tight. Vehicles with Automatic Transmission: a) Align the transmission torque converter housing with the engine. Loosely install the converter housing lower bolts and install the next higher bolt and nut on each side. c) Tighten all 4 bolts finger tight. Install the engine mount cushions (if removed). Lower the engine and engine mount cushions onto the engine compartment brackets. Install the bolts and finger tighten the nuts. Remove the engine lifting device. Raise and support the vehicle. Install the remaining flywheel and housing bolts. Tighten all bolts to 38 Nm (28 ft. lbs.) torque. Vehicles with Automatic Transmission: (a) Install the converter-to-drive plate bolts. ( Ensure the installation reference marks are aligned. Install the flywheel and converter housing access cover. Install the exhaust pipe support and tighten the screw. Tighten the engine mount-to-bracket bolts. Connect the engine speed sensor wire connections and tighten the screws. Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Install the starter motor and connect the cable. Connect the wires to the starter motor solenoid. Lower the vehicle. Connect all the vacuum hoses and wire connectors identified during engine removal. Vehicles with lower Steering: (a) Remove the protective caps ( Connect the hoses to the fittings at the steering gear. Tighten the nut to52 Nm (38 ft. lbs.) torque. © Fill the pump reservoir with fluid. Install the power brake vacuum check valve to the booster, if equipped. Connect the fuel supply hose the fuel rail. Push until a "click" is heard. Instal] latch clip Connect the fuel injector harness to the injectors. Connect the distributor electrical connector and oil pressure switch connector. Connect the line pressure cable (if equipped with automatic transmission). Connect the speed control cable, if equipped. Connect the throttle cable. Connect the heater hoses at the engine thermostat housing and water pump. Install the fan assembly to the idler pulley. Connect the suction/discharge hose to the compressor. Connect automatic transmission fluid cooler lines, if equipped. Install the fan shroud, electric cooling fan and radiator and condenser (if equipped with A/C). Connect the electric fan connector. Install upper radiator support. Connect the upper radiator hose. Connect the lower radiator hose. Align the hood to the scribe marks. Install the hood. Install the air cleaner assembly. Install the battery and connect the battery cable. Add the proper amount of engine oil and coolant. WARNING: Use Extreme Caution When The Engine Is Operating. Do Not Stand In A Direct Line With The Fan. Do Not Put Your Hands Near The Pulleys Belts Or Fan. Do Not Wear Loose Clothing. Start the engine, inspect for leaks and correct the fluid levels, as necessary. Charge the air conditioning system. Edited March 10, 2007 by 5523Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 you're da man 5523P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 you're da man 5523P. Hey, gotta love having access to AllDataOnline! Glad I can help. Your welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 i'm sure i'll bug yah in the future. it won't be for a little while though.. maybe a month or two.. i have a whole other list before the heep. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC88Pathy Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 (edited) Also IIRC 2wd cherokees have a "dummy" axle in front, so swapping to 4wd is a fairly simple process. Well at least easier than most 2wd -> 4wd conversions, if your friend wants to go even further with the engine swap... Edited March 11, 2007 by SC88Pathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonainmi Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 what SC88Pathy said is right, there is a dummy axle in the front. it shouldnt bee too hard to swap to 4WD. I will warn you about the engine swap though, There is hella room under the hood, but the way the 4.0 is set in there, it seems like trying to work on an V8 in an accord. I have never done the R&R, but i have removed an 4.0 out of a 94. I ended up droping the front sup. and droping the engine & tranny out from the bottom. From what i have been told, it would be easer to pull it from the top.... not sure though. anyway, best of luck with it it will be fun, i asure you that. Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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