milehighcowboy Posted January 26, 2007 Share Posted January 26, 2007 (edited) so i finally dug into my engine yesterday. I have been getting tons of help from Slick (thanks) and just kinda tearing it apart piece by piece. so here is what i have done so far. Yesterday. took top of intake off labeled all wiring connected to engine. removed radiator removed fan/shroud (which pretty much shattered when i dropped it on the ground) removed the distributer also inspected the valves and found none to be broken or any reminance of metal in the valve area. (poor wording i know) Today disconnected fuel lines (forgot to lable durrrr it was early ok) removed the injectors removed the bottom half of the intake (did not know i needed that yesterday) removed the altenator (replacing with new /maybe bigger one) removed power steering pump (well half way cant get second hose off) got all the belts off (all worn to bits) drained the oil drained the tranny (just to be safe would not mind changing it any way) disconnected the heater hoses so now i am pretty much at a stand still for a few days untill i can get a puller and a stand. few questions though need a pic or discription of where the starter is at? am i disconnecting the exhaust at the manifolds or at the Y-pipe? best way to clean the crap outa the engine? all metal parts to new or close to new looking. would like to paint it a navy blue. how far do i need to drop the front diff for the oil pan to clear? things to replace; A\C Belt Fan Belt PWR STeering Belt Timing Belt Timing tensioner (pending) Water pump Rear main seal oil pan seal intake seals valve cover seals cam seals ben Edited January 26, 2007 by milehighcowboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted January 26, 2007 Share Posted January 26, 2007 The starter is on the right side under the exhaust manifold. I disconnected the pipes at the manifolds How far are you tearing the engine blck down and are you swapping the crankshafts? If you are NOT, then you need to contact Slick as I just replied to an email from her about your engine Hmm, dropping the axle/front end.. that is foreign to me.... I'll let someone else help you there other parts.. new water pump unless you are SURE that yours is in good shape timing belt and possibly tensioner With the engine out, it would be a good time to change the cam seals too some others things that I can't seem to think of right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted January 26, 2007 Author Share Posted January 26, 2007 axle was wrong word sorry i ment the front differentail. my appalogies. how the heck did you get in there to disconnect the stupid pies then? i tried and tried but teh bolts are damn near impossible to move. think there is room to unbolt at Y? then worry about them after its out? i am waiting for slick to get back to me on that one and am sure i will get a message from her here tonight some time. water pump is also on my list forgot that as is the tensioner i need to write all this down. ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted January 26, 2007 Share Posted January 26, 2007 Don't worry, axle was close enough... that is not what I mean. I said that because I did not drop or even unbolt the front end But I did remove the TBars to give the tranny room to move. I used a universal joint and a 20in extention (going up from below) to get the bolts out at the pipe/manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted January 26, 2007 Author Share Posted January 26, 2007 you have an auto or manual would it make a diff? i think i have enough extensions to reach that far did not think of that. huh. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted January 26, 2007 Share Posted January 26, 2007 (edited) If your talking about unbolting the pipes... Mine is a manual and I don't think it would make a difference if it was an Auto or Manual... but I have never checked to see if the clearance is the same on an Auto (but it is probably pretty close to the same) Now about the engine removal without dropping the front end... I won't lie, it took time and some thinking, positioning, rethinking and repositioning before it was out... going back in was not cut and dry either. Edited January 26, 2007 by RedPath88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted January 26, 2007 Author Share Posted January 26, 2007 yea i ment the droping the front end if it owuld have a diff being a manual compared to my auto. you defintaly have a lot more to pull out of the bay. so i might be able to have a go at it wiht all that still inplace. hummmmm might go the long way and disconect it all just cause its my first time doing this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted January 26, 2007 Share Posted January 26, 2007 disconect it all just cause its my first time doing this. That would be my recommendation, do it by the book... at least the first time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted January 26, 2007 Author Share Posted January 26, 2007 no arguements here. thanks for the input though. ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammyb33 Posted January 26, 2007 Share Posted January 26, 2007 there would be no clearance issues from auto to manual..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 26, 2007 Share Posted January 26, 2007 sent you a PM milehigh... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted January 26, 2007 Author Share Posted January 26, 2007 thanks for the link got it downloaded and saved untill i can et adobe to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted January 26, 2007 Author Share Posted January 26, 2007 (edited) so is this the t-belt tensioner i need to buy? the bearing at the end is confusing me. Nissan Timing Belt Tensioner Bearing so far for a complete gasket kit, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, timing belt, the tensioner (assuming thats that thingy above), and a water pump. its going to cost $190.41 with USPS (priority mail) shipping. i am waiting on an email back from the guy to see what all is included in the full gasket kit. it says it includes all pieces in the OE package. i dont know what "OE" means lol. so grand total so far; new parts= 190.41 engine= 100.00 stand= 30.00 hoist 2 days= 50.00 total= $370.41 still need to find radiator hoses, a fan shroud, A\C Belt, Fan Belt, PWR steering belt, cleaning stuff (make her shiny "er"), paint (maybe) and a few wire connections to splice in because they are shot. so no more than $550 not bad i think. see if it all pans out that way. Edited January 26, 2007 by milehighcowboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted January 26, 2007 Share Posted January 26, 2007 good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted January 26, 2007 Author Share Posted January 26, 2007 (edited) and now i am on hold pending more info from red. got lost on some things with him and slick. something with the crankshafts. (would post pics of newer engine but dont know how red or slick think you can help me out there?) maybe i can still fix it if not well then :furious: -alcohol- :oops: lol. Edited January 26, 2007 by milehighcowboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted January 26, 2007 Share Posted January 26, 2007 or slick think you can help me out there Here you go... This is a picture of the crankshaft on the engine that he plans to use as a replacement. This is going to be familiar to at least some of you... this is what led to the replacement of my engine. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...=20entry56010 So I think it may be a good idea for people to offer their view points and recommendations given this new info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted January 26, 2007 Share Posted January 26, 2007 :o how much did you pay for your gasket set? i got a COMPLETE (by ITM) OEM gasket set for my 92 from parts dinasaur for $83, and got it in 3 days. great peeps to deal with.... will be getting my pistons from him. they're based in arizona. are we good with the motor thing now? even tho my new motor was a VG30i, i had never seen anything quite like that, so red was my "go-to" man. glad that's all sorted (thanks red!) just drop the diff x member, disconnect the cv at the diff on that side (pass side), and the y pipes...bolts are pretty basic. if oyu break one. worry about it later. PB blaster is your friend on this job... believe me! :bow: oodles n oodles of PB on EVERYTHING you plan on touching with a wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 Nobody is willing to offer up an opinon on this? In case there was any confusion... the pic I posted above was not of my engine, that is the one he plans on installing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted January 28, 2007 Author Share Posted January 28, 2007 the psrts list i compiled is from parts dinosaur. the complete gasket kit is like 94 i think. i am still trying to figure out the whole engine thing as red suggested i am waiting for otehr comments. ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted January 28, 2007 Share Posted January 28, 2007 Nobody is willing to offer up an opinon on this? In case there was any confusion... the pic I posted above was not of my engine, that is the one he plans on installing sssh we had our opinions last night lol. ben.. find out WHY that motor was removed, and if he can guarantee you that motor is ok. then. and ONLY then do you buy it. is this a guy you can trust? why did you get a gasket set for a 94? isn't yours a 92? tho they should be the same.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted January 28, 2007 Author Share Posted January 28, 2007 no no lol sorry the gasket set cost me $94. srry for the confusion lol ok so what i know about the engine is this; about 160K on it, "The problem was the throttle position sensor the motor had good compression when tested about 150psi in each cylinder", "The problem I had was with the TBI (throttle body injection) which has been installed in my new engine. You will be using your multi point fuel injection, which has all the sensors my problem was with a sensor." those are quotes from emails he sent me. he never said anything about the key way or anything. he said that when he put his new used engine into his truck that it was doing the same thing as the older engine. he said he cant guarantee the engine but only that it turned over and ran (but like crap believed to be caused by the TBI). thats why only $100. ben ps has any one looked at that link i posted of the would be tensioner. i am not sure if thats the correct part. let me know please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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