Tobynine9 Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 Hey y'all. I don't currently own a Pathfinder but I'm looking at one. I need a decent daily driver so I can do bigger projects on the 01 SS Camaro without worrying about downtime. It's a 1992 SE with 120k miles. It's in OK shape. It's got a good bit of surface rust on the chassis and a few very minor spots of body rust. One fender has been replaced from a bang into a parking garage pylon. There's a spot on one door where a nick went down to the sheetmetal and moisture got beneath the paint. It's bubbling up in about a 3.5" diameter. The leather seats are shredded and need covers otherwise the interior looks pretty good. 4x4 works. Do Pathfinders use a vacuum operated actuator to engage the 4x4 or is it mechanical? My old 90 Blazer was bulletproof except for that. Brakes need some attention. They're good to about 40% pressure and then the response drops off. You don't get increased braking force as you squeeze harder. I'm thinking it's either air in the lines or a master cylinder going bad. It leaks coolant like Niagra dumps water. Basically, within my 25 minute test drive, it emptied the reservoir and radiator. Owner claims he's had it looked at by a Nissan dealership that told him it was the water pump and "upper line". I don't know what the upper line is, any input? It's not the upper radiator hose. The oil is not milky so water isn't getting in there. Obviously, it's time for a timing belt. It needs a tune up. The off-idle throttle response was pretty meager. That could be from a stretching timing belt too, I suppose. I didn't hear any loud ticks or knocks from the motor. The transmission dropped between D and N and R w/o long hesitations and with no driveline clunk. HOLY SMOKES, the rear end on this thing is HUGE! I'm so used to GM's pathetic excuses for differentials. The battery is a cheapo Wal-Mart brand . End of story, owner is asking 1800 obo. I looked at it for a good while and got back with him the next day with an offer of 1150 as it's gonna need a lot of attention before it's realistically driveable. He has since countered with 1400. I know y'all are gonna be biased but give me a few honest opinions. Is the truck worth even messing with? Are the needed repairs gonna break my back? I know what the parts are gonna run but I'd be doing the labor myself. Any input is welcome. Respond quick, I hate to make a seller wait because I hate it when buyers make me wait. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denisb Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 No Vacum 4X4 on these, they're purely mechanical. You mention rust, Make sure to check the frame from the back wheel on especially. They have a comon rust problem in that area as well as under the rear seats. If you didn't hear clicks or knocks that's a good thing, as they are known for their broken manifold studs. They are pretty bullit proof. Mine's got close to 240ks and it still runs good. The only thing that I'd be a little warry about is the coolant leak. Not sure about that one. Definately I would do timing belt since you will be in that area when replacing the water pump. Oh and check the rear control arm bushings (which are another common prob). It's an easy enough fix if they're bad, but you might be able to dicker on price some more Denis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denisb Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 Oh I forgot to add. If you purchase I'd check to see if the tranny cooler is OEM or not....the OEM sucked and lots of people ruint trannys that way. As for your brakes, If you have disks in the back, could be stuck pins. Mine act like that when they start needing attention. Denis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 i'd possibly go for 1200 max...the water pump/upper line will also entail if done right cam seals and the timing belt...which if you dont do the work it'll be somewhere along the lines of $600 to get done plus parts (i think thats a good estimate but might be high or low) as for chassis rust take a screwdriver and punch towards the frame above the wheelwells and what not and check under the rear seat for rusting out there...look around here for pix of frame rot that can get costly if the frame rails are rusting thru...also a bad place is up front under the battery for rust/rot any pix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 i paid 2000 for my 90 pathy, and i got it without any real issues besides clear coat flaking... 1800 sounds like too much for that 92... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobynine9 Posted January 20, 2007 Author Share Posted January 20, 2007 Yeah, no way I'm paying 1800 for it. Like I say, I offered 1150 and he countered at 1400. We'll see where I go from here. I'm not sure whether I want to deal with that much work. I was planning on doing the timing belt/water pump myself. From everything I've read, that doesn't seem too hard. How hard are the cam seals in addition to all that? I didn't check the frame rails over the rear wheels. The main rails beneath the cab are fine, just surface rust. I do have pics but not on this computer. I'll post them up tonight. Of course, the pictures look better than the actual truck does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 cam seals are cake compared to the caution u need in doing the t belt... 6 extra bolts and careful use of a flat tip will get those badboys out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobynine9 Posted January 21, 2007 Author Share Posted January 21, 2007 What's the steering supposed to feel like on these things? There was slop or big play in it, the boost just felt weak. Maybe they have have a heavy steering feel to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PathFound Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 My '91 Pathfinder leaks coolant and I'm fairly certain it's the water pump. I still need to change it along with the timing belt, cam seals, etc... The original poster said the coolant leaks all out within 25 minutes. That's horrible and pretty much makes the vehicle undrivable. My leak is such that, in the coolant resorvior tank it will go from MAX to LOW in about a week's worth of driving, or roughly 500-600 km. The dollar amount you are talking is in US currency? I paid $3900 CAD for my Pathfinder ('91 SE, 5-speed, 243,000 KM). Vehicle's body is in excellent shape though - little to no rust. I find the steering a bit sloppy in the Pathfinder, but I'm used to my Mazda3 that has quick, precise steering. Different vehicle all together. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemike Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 well im in alberta and you could buy mine for 2500 firm its a 1990 minor body rust on wells/bumpers anyways, i personally would not buy that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pavelow Leaks Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Personally I wouldnt buy that one, I'm sure if you looked around you can find one in better shape for around the same price. I bought my '90 with a brand new engine, perfect interior, 3" lift, and ZERO rust for 1500 bucks. The clearcoat is starting to flake, but that is the only thing wrong with it. I did buy it from a good friend, so it probably would have been sold for about 3 to anyone else, which would still have been a good deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 If the upper hose refers to the one coming off of the top of the water pump (hidden some by the upper timing cover) then it can at times be a PITA to change... but doing it when the timing belt is done makes life easier. It's a $4-$10 part... I think I paid $6 and got a hose that when cut gave me two of them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 first off, it sounds more like a shot head gasket. if it's the upper radiator bypass hose as red said, i have changed one, and yes, they are a PITA. cheap part. lots of lost skin on knuckles. as above, poke the read frame with a screwdriver. that's their notorious spot for rust. i'd offer $800.... and not a penny more. i paid $1k in california for my 91 (on the right in my sig) 5 months ago..... as is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobynine9 Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 Thanks much, guys. I really appreciate your input on this one. I've decided not to go for it. It's more work than I'm looking for. I'm sure there's lots of life left in her but... not for me. I don't mind wrenching on my vehichles, but y'all are talking head gaskets and even more labor than I'd already be facing while changing the timing belt in an engine bay I've never even seen in the daylight. I'll save my cash for now and keep looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Probably a smart move The deals are out there, just got to wait for the right one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobynine9 Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 Probably a smart move The deals are out there, just got to wait for the right one What I really want is an old Yoder like your '83. Only problem is, I'm not willing to pay what they're going for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickStallion Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 Bought my 95 about 5 years ago with 116,000 miles on it for $5,000. USA money. I've driven it 30,000 miles since then, with only one problem. Oxygen sensor went bad. That is a pretty good reliability factor. I did have the timing belt replaced when I got it, and I've also had the auto trans fluid replaced by the dealership. Other than that, it's started every time, uses NO oil, and has never left me stranded anywhere. These things are truly great vehicles. Best of luck finding one. I've had mine off roading numerous times, and it's never gotten stuck, and it's done things I didn't think was possible. I've replaced the rear chrome bumper ends that were rusting (very cheap fix), as well as removed the rusted out step rails. Need to replace the rear chrome bumper that has a couple of rusty spots at the contact points, but other than that it's still in great shape. My Pathfinder's pictures are listed among the 95's on this site on the beach in Florida. Truly amazing vehicles. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted January 28, 2007 Share Posted January 28, 2007 Nick: Do you have an external trans cooler installed? If not, you should really do that soon before the stock cooler makes your auto trans die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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