Swapping out front CV axles

[QuismO]

so i ordered two complete front CV axles with boots and all. I saw the how to and made a post a while back, but i don't think that the How To section gets much traffic since everyone here knows how to do everything =P

 

to me, it gets kind of hazy after removing the snap ring and the six bolts that hold the axle to the t-case.

 

Questions:

 

If i remove the snap ring, is the hub and rotor supposed to slide off of the end of the axle? Of course assuming i remove the brake caliper.

 

the thing that the floor jack supports...what exactly is the knuckle/hub deal?

 

thanks all.

[XPLORx4]

Removing the snap ring doesn't allow the hub/rotor to slide off. If you're only replacing the CV axles, you don't need to do that. Once you've got the 6 bolts removed from the inner CV, and the snapring off the outer axleshaft, place jackstands under the frame. (You'll see some diamond-shaped plates on the bottom of the frame, just behind the front wheewell.)

 

With the front suspension fully unloaded, remove the 3 nuts holding the lower ball joint to the A-arm, then swing the A-arm down and away. This will allow you to maneuver the CV axle out. You may need to turn the steering one way or the other for more clearance, also.

[88pathoffroad]

Search for doing this swap on a R50. It sounds like you're quoting procedures for a WD21.

Edited January 14, 2007 by 88pathoffroad

[nissandoms47]

with your drive flanges just remove the snap right, it'll allow the cv to then slide out, i removed the 2 strut bolts and the 6 bolts holding the cv to the axle and just tilted the spindle as far out as it would go and the cv slid right out, and back in. it took me about 30 minutes a side. easy if you know what your doing.

[XPLORx4]

Search for doing this swap on a R50. You're quoting procedures for a WD21.

Hi 88pathoffroad-

 

Respectully, please try to remember prior to posting that there are R50 owners who have actually done this before. If it appears to you that I am quoting WD21 CV shaft removal procedures, then it seems that R50's and WD21's have more in common than we thought! Several R50 owners have quite a bit of firsthand knowledge about repair and maintenance procedures. Rather than try to tell me what I'm quoting, perhaps a better way to say what you meant is:

 

The procedures quoted seem to be very similar to those for a WD21. I don't own an R50, so don't take my word for it, but you should search for this for an R50, because the procedure might be a little different.

 

The procedure I specified in my post above is a lot easier than removing the strut and tie rod end from the heavy and awkard-to-handle knuckle/hub/rotor. Note in the photo below that if the A-arm is swung down so it's perpendicular to the ground, there is ample clearance to slide the CV out. If I ever have to replace a CV axle again, this is the method I will use.

 

Best regards,

Dean "XPLORx4" Thayer

R50 owner/operator/DIY mechanic since 1998

[herm]

For many of wheeling on original CV axles with over 100k: would you consider replacing them a preventative maint issue? Or would you say a trail situation that stresses a CV to break is essentially the same risk for a used vs new CV?

 

m.

[88pathoffroad]

Sorry, I should have said "sounds like" instead of just stating an imperative. I am by no means correct all the time, we all know this. Thanks for the input!

[XPLORx4]

Thanks for the input!

And thanks for not taking it personally.

 

 

herm- CV axle replacement generally isn't normally a "preventative maintenance" thing. Unless the joints are making clicking noises, the boots are torn/cracked, or the condition of the axleshafts themselves is compromised somehow, then they should pretty much be just as strong as new ones.

[QuismO]

hey thanks for the replies guys...it seems like everytime i checked back on NPORA...the forums were down for whatever odd reason =P.

 

it doesn't seem too hard, i'll let you guys know how my install goes =P