Jump to content

tranny cooler Q's - mounting height/orientation?


gxl90rx7
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey, ive been smelling a weird burning-tranny-fluid-type smell recently when idling in traffic, and i fear my tranny cooler is clogged (its an auto). I pulled the dipstick and the tranny fluid doesnt smell too good either :unsure: But the tranny still shifts perfect, no problems.

 

So i decided to upgrade the cooler (ordered a 12"x10"x3/4" cooler rated for :bow: 22,000 GVW ) and get the fluid changed while im at it. And i have a few questions about mounting location. I did some searching but didnt really find any answers..

 

Ive decided to mount it right in front of the radiator, on the drivers side. I was wondering if mounting height matters? Is it possible to mount it too high, and the fluid wont be able to circulate well? How is the fluid circulated, is there a pump in the tranny? And is it ok to mount the cooler sideways, so that the passages are going up and down instead of side to side, or will that also impede fluid flow?

 

Thanks for looking!

 

Jamin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The A/T has a pump that moves the fluid.

Height does not matter (within reason - I wouldn't mount on roof, for instance)

 

Is it a plate style (B&M) or a tube and fin?

 

 

If a plate style, you want to mount it so the outlet is towards the top so it self purges air bubbles. So sideways is fine (in at bottom, out at top), or with both bungs pointed up. But mounting with both bungs pointed down results in an air trap and decreased effectiveness.

But that is the only negative to plate. They are more effective for a given size and are very durable.

 

If tube and fin, orientation does not matter much, but it is most effective at self purging air bubbles if the bungs point to the sides with the inlet at the bottom and outlet at top.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mws sums it up pretty well

 

i just want to add that if the oil is in a fairly average state, that unless you get a 'pressurised' flush. you will only end up changing some of the fluid & not all of it

 

best thing to do is pay for a 'pressurised' flush or drain and refill a few times, with drives in between - to cycle the fluid.

 

 

Reason being: the torque converter holds a lot of fluid. so when the trany pan is drained and refilled there is still alot of old oil in the torque converter.

 

:beer:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or you can flush your own - it achieves the exact same quality of a flush, just a bit more work - and a lot of mess if you're not careful!

1) Drain the pan and the lines.

2) Refill pan with fresh ATF through filler pipe

3) Detach the outlet hose from the radiator cooler

4) Stick that hose in a 5 gallon bucket with at least a couple gallons of fresh ATF

5) Put a piece of tubing on the outlet nipple of the cooler

6) Put that piece of tubing in an emty 5 gallon bucket. SECURE it in the bucket so it doesn't shoot out and do the dancing cobra of slippery red puke trick....

 

7) Have someone else start car (in PARK).

 

 

Watch carefully. As it runs, the AT will pump all the old fluid out into the empty bucket as it pulls clean fluid out of pan.

It MAY suck in clean fluid from the full bucket. If not, stop the engine and get a funnel. Pour clean fluid into dipstick to refill, and then re-start and try to keep feeding fresh fluid in at about the same rate as it is pumping the old out.

 

As long as the AT pump has a supply of fresh oil to pump from (the pan) it will pump the old crap out of the TC all by itself. The stuff you pump out will go from horrid to a mix to just about 100% clean within a couple gallons.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or you can flush your own - it achieves the exact same quality of a flush, just a bit more work - and a lot of mess if you're not careful!

1)  Drain the pan and the lines.

2)  Refill pan with fresh ATF through filler pipe

3)  Detach the outlet hose from the radiator cooler

4)  Stick that hose in a 5 gallon bucket with at least a couple gallons of fresh ATF

5)  Put a piece of tubing on the outlet nipple of the cooler

6)  Put that piece of tubing in an emty 5 gallon bucket.  SECURE it in the bucket so it doesn't shoot out and do the dancing cobra of slippery red puke trick....

 

7)  Have someone else start car (in PARK).

 

 

Watch carefully.  As it runs, the AT will pump all the old fluid out into the empty bucket as it pulls clean fluid out of pan. 

It MAY suck in clean fluid from the full bucket.  If not, stop the engine and get a funnel.  Pour clean fluid into dipstick to refill, and then re-start and try to keep feeding fresh fluid in at about the same rate as it is pumping the old out. 

 

As long as the AT pump has a supply of fresh oil to pump from (the pan) it will pump the old crap out of the TC all by itself.  The stuff you pump out will go from horrid to a mix to just about 100% clean within a couple gallons.

sweet, ill have to try that

 

I suppose the haynes manual shows the flow direction for the cooler hoses?

 

thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...