mikemike Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 so i recently bought a 90 pathfiner, and i was told it leaked from the oil pan gasket. i work at lube x so i was able to pull it on in and give a look at it, and after removing the skid plate none of us could figure out how to get at the back bolts that hold the pan on.. is there sometthing else i have to take off first?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 The front axle and suspension. Entire axle including 3rd and CV's, LCA's, torsion bars, front axle cross member, shocks, sway bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemike Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 so.. worth pay 130 for?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 (edited) Yes Story time I just got down doing a motor swap on mine, I tried everything to avoid removing the aforementioned parts but nothing worked, if I could have removed the oil pan I probably couldve taken the motor out w/o axle removal. Wait for some input I could be wrong. Edited October 5, 2006 by FLApathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 if they do it the right way yes worth 130...if they just kinda goop on some silicone to make it stop leaking for a month or so then no... u just have to drop out the down tube, disconnect the cv's drop out the front axle and a cross memeber...i dont think u need to touch the LCAs...but i could be mistaken... and ure 100% sure its not the rear main seal and/or the valve cover gaskets...i thought my pan was leaking and it was the rear of my valve gaskets just running down where i couldnt see and falling to the pan looking like the pan...worth a check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemike Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 actually its in right now gettin the insurance inspection done, and i am having them pinpoint the problem, so i can get get them to repair it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 ...i dont think u need to touch the LCAs...but i could be mistaken... Yeah he could probably leave them on if he had a lift, just let the entire front axle drop down onto a tranny jack and secure it, but if he does it in his driveway he will need the room, but he could still just unbolt the CV's from the flanges. My driver side CV is destroyed, I mean total failure and the bolts that hold the CV's to the flanges are seized tight and so are the hub bolts, so I just dropped it all and dragged it out of the way on a flat dolly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemike Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 i think im going to have it done in the shop. plus i guess depending on what needs ot be done.. cause its not for sure oil pan gasket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 Clean it up under there... drive it for a day, then re inspect for the leak.... follow the flow of oil from its lowest position to the highest.... thats where it is leaking from... I would also suggest inspecting the oilsending unit (above and behind the Starter)... Auto you can pull the motor without dropping the front Axel, Stick I beleive you have to drop it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 The front axle and suspension.Entire axle including 3rd and CV's, LCA's, torsion bars, front axle cross member, shocks, sway bar. Story time I just got down doing a motor swap on mine, I tried everything to avoid removing the aforementioned parts but nothing worked, if I could have removed the oil pan I probably couldve taken the motor out w/o axle removal. Wait for some input I could be wrong. I swapped the engine in my truck without dropping/pulling all those parts. Was it more difficult? I honestly do not know, I have done engine swaps before, but this is the first and only time in a Nissan truck Would I do it again this way? You bet I would, saved me from having to do a LOT of disassembly only to have to put it all back together again! The ONLY thing on that list I removed, was the Torsion Bars and that was ONLY because it allowed a little more room to move the transmission during engine reinstallation (I also used the opportunity to re index the bars) I am fairly sure that you can get to the oil pan bolts with the right combination of tools (extensions/universals) but since I removed the engine with the oil pan attached, I can not be sure of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 (edited) Stick I beleive you have to drop it... Please see prior post Edited October 5, 2006 by RedPath88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 uto you can pull the motor without dropping the front Axel, Stick I beleive you have to drop it... i have an 87 and i had to drop the axle to get the engine out...tried my damndest to get it without pulling that FA..stupid oil pan was all in the way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 i have an 87 and i had to drop the axle to get the engine out...tried my damndest to get it without pulling that FA..stupid oil pan was all in the way It took a lot of patience, constant evaluation/re-evaluation of the situation and even a couple threats to the long term health of the truck.. but I got mine out AND back in (and the vast majority of the swap was done by myself) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 i popped the cv's and cross member....... splat. out everything came. took less than 1/2hr (if you knew my truck. that's a 5 min job for anyone else) i have a 5 speed (ok, i have an auto too but i am talking about my 5 speed) pulled the motor 1 hr later worth $130 if that's really the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemike Posted October 6, 2006 Author Share Posted October 6, 2006 well i had them look at it and they say its the valve covers.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89_trailboss Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 tighten the screws down on the valve cover. most of the time the gasket jsut needs to be squishe a bit more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 It might not be a bad idea to take the covers off, clean the head and cover mating surfaces along with the gaskets, then tighten them down more than they were. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemike Posted October 6, 2006 Author Share Posted October 6, 2006 may break it. is it a cork gasket?? or the rubber gasket?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 may break it. is it a cork gasket?? or the rubber gasket?? Rubber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 (edited) may break it. is it a cork gasket?? or the rubber gasket?? Its rubber, and may be intimadating if to get it off the vavle cover, if your not really sure of what your doing but it will pop out, the vavle cover has little ears that hold it in, the gasket is really thick and I dont see it breaking. and red, thats intresting, I was pretty much told by everybody that it all had to come out, but im glad I took it all out, it was a really good learning expirence for me Edited October 6, 2006 by FLApathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemike Posted October 6, 2006 Author Share Posted October 6, 2006 okayy.. path in the shop right now.. is there anything i need to get past to get at the valve cover?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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