Cuong Nguyen Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 I've never done this job before and was trying to figure if it's difficult to do so. I was wondering what I should look out for and any tips and pointers to make it less of a headache to do. Any special tools needed? Do I need to remove the pistons and connecting rods as well after removing the crank? I need to invest in an engine stand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 I need to invest in an engine stand 750lbs Engine Stand - $39.99 1000lbs Engine Stand - $54.99 Harbor Freight - Texas Locations I have the 750lbs (and I think Slick has the same one) and it handled a VG30 with no problems. The main bonus, other than the extra 250lbs capacity to the second one is the twin wheels up front. That gives a little better stability when moving it around. But again, I had no trouble with the 750lbs model HF has sales all the time on the 750lbs model. Right now my local flyer lists the 2000lbs model on sale for $79.99 (normally $109.99) If you sign up for email specials they send out coupons all the time too. Typical ones are $5 off $35 or more 10% off entire purchase 20% off a single item (Sometimes 25% off) These are valid on current sale prices too. That is how I got my engine hoist for under $115 before state sales tax. (On sale for $150 plus a 25% off coupon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 hmm...it shouldnt be too bad...def have an engine stand.... ~u have to remove a plate on the front and rear of the engine (where ure main seals are) ~the pan is easy to remove ~pull the dipstick tube then once u get in there there are 2 10 mm bolts that hold the oil pickup tube ~then the cradle has about 8 bolts i think but u prob need a breaker bar b/c they're at like 90 ft lbs or something ~then the bearing races and connecting rod back plates but i think the pistons dont have to come out to get the crank out but i havent pulled the crank all the way out of our engine but the 1's i have done u had to pull the crank before i could get the pistons out IIRC you could probably do it in 2-3 hrs depending on how fast u work and if you dont run into any problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 Cuong, this is on a 4cyl right? Things might be a little different, but it should not be to hard. But yeah, an engine stand will make life a LOT easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 ohh.....never seen the 4 banger but i'd imagine its pretty close and possibly easier to work on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted September 11, 2006 Author Share Posted September 11, 2006 no, this is on my Xterra motor. I'm trying to get the ball rolling and do the swap into Shelly. Thanks for everyone's input so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 When you take it off, put the caps and what not in the order they came out, lay a towel down on your bench and mark it front and back, then when you take the bolts and caps and piston caps lay them down in the order they are on the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 When you take it off, put the caps and what not in the order they came out, lay a towel down on your bench and mark it front and back, then when you take the bolts and caps and piston caps lay them down in the order they are on the motor. yes, definitely do that! you'll also need a hoist.. look for plasti-gage too.. you'll need it for proper torqueing of the bearings etc.. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN ANYTHING IN THERE! it's gotta be nutz on. keep everything super clean. you could also use a tube of lithium grease for re-assembly. good luck and don't be affraid to ask along the way if you come accross any issues. btw. also make sure not to lose the head allignement guides... they kind of look like fat wedding bands. they tend to stick to the heads when you lift them but then they fall down sometimes.. i spent i don't know how long trying to figure out what in the hell they were.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 Definitely NOT hard. It does require focused attention to detail and strict adherance to procedures and specs (GET THE MANUAL!), but I actually find engine work MUCH easier than suspension work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted September 12, 2006 Author Share Posted September 12, 2006 what is this plasti-guage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Gary Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 (edited) Cuong, Plasti-guage is for re-assembly: It's used to set the space between the crank journals and the bearings (it "squishes" when you torque down the bolts and you measure the width (amount of "squish") of the plastiguage in order to ensure proper spacing) Here's my $0.02 for pulling a crank: Buy a metal stamping set before you do anything and use it to number your caps (stamp the number right onto the bottom surface) ... This is what any good machine shop will do - It allows you to work with (clean, inspect, etc.) the caps after disassembly without worrying which one goes where. I do this when I pull an engine to be sent for machining: It saves the $50 or so that the engine shop would charge me to do it Cheers! Gary Edited September 12, 2006 by 94 Pathy Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 thanks 94gary for defining the plasti-gage... they are available at NAPA for sure... don't recall if the other places carry that stuff. stamping.. great idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 what year X engine...i should be able to get u a FSM... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now