MY1PATH Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 hey Nissannut.com has atly swap writeups so you can see those pics too... http://nissannut.com/projects/alt_upgrade/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cachefinder Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 hey Nissannut.com has atly swap writeups so you can see those pics too... http://nissannut.com/projects/alt_upgrade/ Those are some good pics and good information... I'm working through this mod to my 92 Pathy. I have a 95 Villager 110amp alternator that I got at the Pull-a-part for ~$20 / tested good at Advanced Auto. Cleaned up and sitting on my garage floor. Got all the junk out of the way thanks to it being timing belt replacement time...perfect time to do this upgrade along with the headlight/relay modification (I finished that this weekend). Anyway...I noted some differences in the approach RedPath88 took vs the Nissannut.com write-up. Main difference was that Red spaced the alternator where NN spaced the pulley. Seems to me that spacing the pulley using ordinary garage tools is asking for a wobbly-pulley which can not be good. Also NN revised the install to include grinding/sanding down the casing and adding a washer to reposition the pulley. It seems to me that Red's approach is a bit better/easier. The missing element in this write-up is the proper sizing of the spacers and the new dimensions to cut/modify the bracket. Does anyone have an idea what these various dimensions might be??? It would be nice to include that and the size belt that fits with this modification so it will be more or less idiot proof for those of us who are...challenged Thanks, Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 Thanks for the compliments Michael When I decided to do the swap, modifying the alternators housing was the excepted method (and really still is), but it was one that I did not want to do unless there was no other way. Now this does not mean that the way NissanNut or anyone else who's done it, did it wrong. There is nothing wrong with grinding the housing down to allow mounting, if your ok with it. It's just not the way I wanted to go about it, since one of my goals was to retain the option of using it as a core if ever I bought a new or rebuilt unit. Sadly I do not have the exact measurements and don't see removing my alty anytime soon. When I do I will get those numbers (at least those I can) and add them to the posts, But until then, the picture showing the trimmed section of the bracket will allow you to get very close if you take your time. Trim it over sized a little, test fit, mark and trim until you get the length right. Then determine where the new hole needs to be, then re-check the hole location and bracket length again, before drilling it out. As for the spacers, while your at the hardware store, grab a handful of washers and use them to space it out. Once you have the alignment right, you can measure the combined stack of washers to get a number for the permanent spacer. If I remember correctly, the belt is 10mm longer than stock. I should have a Napa part number somewhere at home, I'll see if I can dig it up. It's not a hard job at all, a little time and attention to detail will allow you to get it right. The hard part was figuring out where, how and what was needed to do it... and that's done But this does bring an idea to mind, maybe the next time I am at the wrecking yard I will see if they have any Quests/Villagers. Maybe I'll grab the brackets and make a couple "kits" But no promises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cachefinder Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 That's cool, I figure if the information is available why recreate the wheel. Since I'm piddling on this truck, and have alternative transportation, that won't be an issue...time often is and I'll try and save it where I can... Once I figure the measurements out, I'll post my results here for anyone else interested...that will be a good starting point. ...most of all, thanks to you and 88 (and others) for laying the groundwork for this and other worthwhile and reasonably cheap modifications. I'd never figure out stuff like this on my own. Question, did you weld the spacer to the adjustment bracket once you were satisfied with the setup? Cheers! Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJpathy Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 So what is a larger alternator I can upgrade to from an Australian delivered vehicle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 I would say look at the list of altys on the Nissan nut page and see if there are any of those vehicles over there... Does the patrol have a larger alty that might fit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 anytime you upgrade to a higher output alternator you should run a new 4 gauge cable to the battery, the stock wire can stay as the current will take the path of least resistance. This was told to me by the Alternator manufacturer when I installed a 160 amp dual output, external regulator alt in my old hardbody. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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