Want to get rid of my BOSE

[kmgar99]

You can use CRUTCHFIELD to do allyour research and get any adapter/wire harness thingy's through them. Then go buy the unit they said will work somewhere else cheaper.

 

Thats what i did. I got a hold of a Sony Explod from my work and bought the adapter plug so i could still have the head unit run throught hte stock Bose amp. Works great.....Wiring is a PIA, but it worked.

[cvearl]

Oh and BTW Veng, I cannot agree with you LESS on your sig.  It implies that Chuck Norris is the meanest baddest mo-fo on earth.  But he's got nothing on the "Hoff".  GOSH don't you know, you are what you eat?  That's why David Hasselhoff's diet mainly consists of iron rods, steel braids and small children. :cool2:

Wrong. Chuck is the baddest...

 

Q. Why does Chuck Norris have to round-house kick himself in the face to shave off his beard?

A. Because only Chuck Norris can cut Chuck Norris.

 

Q. And why would you not want him to shave off his beard anyway?

A. Because all you'd find is another fist.

 

Q. Who'd win in a fight. Darth Vader? or The Incredible Hulk?

A. Chuck Norris.

Edited August 13, 2006 by cvearl

[XPLORx4]

I finally completed my Bose-ectomy last night. It sounds pretty good. It took me about 20 hours to install everything, though. Whew!

 

With the new HU and all 4 door speakers upgraded, the poor-quality sound and door buzzing has disappeared. I've listened to a few CDs and DVDs with my new setup and I'm very content.

 

I didn't want to go through the hassle of running new speaker wire to the doors, so I found a creative way to reuse the factory speaker wires.

 

The factory Bose HU runs front audio signals from the HU directly to the front doors, where each speaker has its own amp, and it runs rear audio signals to the Bose amp behind the rear left cargo panel.

 

Since I mounted the Alpine amp in the same location (where there are no front speaker or signal connections), I had to find some way to get audio from the amp to the front speakers, without running new speaker wire from the rear to the front doors.

 

So, powering rear speakers is easy. I simply used the now-empty factory audio wiring harness. The amp's rear speaker outputs are connected to the harness' rear speaker wires. The amp's front outputs are connected to the harness' rear speaker signal wires (that normally carry the low-level HU signal).

 

Whoa there! Huh? you say.... Yes, that's right, I'm sending amplified speaker output back to the HU! But wait! The HU isn't even connected yet!

 

So, now I have amplified front speaker output coming from the factory HU wiring harness' rear signal wires. To get that front speaker output heading to the front speakers, I just jumpered the front and rear signal wires together. Voila! Front signal makes it from the rear of the vehicle via the rear INPUT

 

The trick to this is two-fold:

1) Use the Nissan audio wiring adapter (supplied for free with my Crutchfield purchase).

2) Get audio signal from the HU to the amp with RCA pre-outs; the speaker-level HU connections are never used. This is the important requirement to make it all work.

 

About the speakers:

 

The speakers I have are 50wRMS Alpine 2-way 6.5" (woofers and tweeters in one unit). I put identical speakers in all 4 doors.

 

Each door has its own Bose amp and speaker. I looked at the wiring at each Bose amp. It has only 6 connections:

+/- signal from the HU

+/- signal to the speaker

+12vDC/ground

 

At the speaker itself, there are 2 wires attached to each speaker terminal:

+/- signal from the Bose amp

+/- signal that goes back up to the door (not back into the amp). According to the FSM and my Haynes manual, these wires connect to the A-pillar tweeters.

 

Because of the way each front door amp and speaker is wired, it's clear that the Bose amp is not a crossover, and the front tweeters are getting a full-range signal which must be being clipped with a capacitor mounted on the tweeter itself. The Bose amp would need 8 wires to be an active crossover:

+/- in from HU

+/- to woofer

+/- to tweeter

+12vDC/ground (to power the amp)

 

To disable the Bose amp, I unplugged the connector, and simply jumpered the +/- in and the +/- to speaker. (The +12vDC/ground connections are not used.)

 

Since I simply reused the factory speaker wire, the A-pillar tweeters still get an amplified signal. The only possible problems I can think of by retaining the A-pillar tweeters are:

 

1) The impedance of the front speaker system is not 4ohms. I didn't measure the tweeter impedance, but I'm assuming it's 2ohms, just like the woofers.

2) The A-pillar tweeters may not be able to withstand 40wRMS (from the amp).

 

And perhaps I won't get the best imaging from my system, but it's certainly better than the original system.

 

Next on the list is to take advantage of the HU's 3 video inputs:

Video1 and 2: Undercarriage-mounted cameras (for self-spotting while rock-crawling)

Reverse-camera: License-plate camera :thumbsup:

[4x4le]

Wrong. Chuck is the baddest...

 

Q. Why does Chuck Norris have to round-house kick himself in the face to shave off his beard?

A. Because only Chuck Norris can cut Chuck Norris.

 

Q. And why would you not want him to shave off his beard anyway?

A. Because all you'd find is another fist.

 

Q. Who'd win in a fight. Darth Vader? or The Incredible Hulk?

A. Chuck Norris.

My bosses brother in law beat chuck norris in a toughman competiton befor chuck norris was way famous. I mean i guess no one goes un defeted but, well, he aint the baddest mo fo ever, and his brother in law works in a factory instead of being a texas ranger so i guess chuck won in the long run....

 

Well i guess this goes without saying, dean, you dont need me to check for you how i did my wiring lol. im kinda glad though, i really didnt want to tear into somethin i was just going to put back together just for pics. I have been neglecting to do other things that can use that free time better. sssh

[XPLORx4]

4x4le- thanks! For the record, I wasn't expecting pics, anyway.

[navygz19]

Ok I'm about to purchase a double-DIN from Crutchfield, along with all the freebies they give you and the amp. integration harness to save some $$ instead of going crazy. My friend's giving me a 12'' and his amp to go along with it, so I'll use the amp. to power the sub only. I'm happy, looking forward to installing it next week when it's warm out.

 

I'll post pics when it's done

[93xe]

the one problem we frequently run into with the bose amp integration harnesses is that soon after installing a new head unit while integrating the factory amps, one of the amps goes bad, or a set of speakers goes bad, usually due to a higher range of volume and eq/crossover control offered by the aftermarket radio...basically im saying there is a higher rate of failure with factory nissan bose speakers/amps when you add an aftermarket radio to it, just so you know...

[navygz19]

the one problem we frequently run into with the bose amp integration harnesses is that soon after installing a new head unit while integrating the factory amps, one of the amps goes bad, or a set of speakers goes bad, usually due to a higher range of volume and eq/crossover control offered by the aftermarket radio...basically im saying there is a higher rate of failure with factory nissan bose speakers/amps when you add an aftermarket radio to it, just so you know...

I was wondering about just such an issue, thanks for the heads up. I'm just so sick of not having a CD player, it's been that way for 4 months now.

 

I'll post up if I run into a problem