cvearl Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 I have a 2002 Pathy with the stock roof rack and a large Coleman Canoe. With my van before this vehicle I used those pull down locking straps with hooks at each end of the straps. The Canoe has metal loop hooks at each end of the boat on the very tips. That and some rope in the middle of the boat in case the front or back fail. Anyway... REAR tie down - Two straps from the rear hook on the boat down to the holes in the hitch frame avoid the rear bumper and the vehicle alltogether as the boat overhangs the rear of the pathy and the hitch sticks out enough to miss the bumper. But... Front tie down - What is the best way to secure the Canoe front without scratching up the Hood and front bumper? And or wrecking the bug deflector I just payed 80 bucks for? I do not have a bush gaurd yet and wont for a little while so that option is out. Under the bumper there are no hooks. There are holes where you can bolt loops or hooks but nothing mounted to the frame at the moment. Any ideas? Cheaper than a bushgaurd install would be nice. But if that's the only way then I will just have to deal with it I guess. C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzy Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 you should have two tie downs in the front... Here's a pic of mine sans bumper, but you can get to it with the bumper on... one has the green shackle on it, and the other you can see justover the tire... as for protecting your hood/bumper... what about using pool noodles between the body & the rope where it will be tied tight?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 (edited) i have hauled my 17' canoe on my mustang for years man. i only use front and back painters.. never, ever have had any issues and i drive 80mph with the damn thing and have fourwheeled with it a lot too. just don't sweat it too much. have fun. there are always way to tie this thing down. when no hooks or the like i just run the rope around the bumper attachments. Edited July 26, 2006 by mzxtreme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 I've seen people put Terry cotton towels between the ropes and their paint to prevent scratching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvearl Posted July 26, 2006 Author Share Posted July 26, 2006 (edited) you should have two tie downs in the front... Here's a pic of mine sans bumper, but you can get to it with the bumper on... one has the green shackle on it, and the other you can see justover the tire... as for protecting your hood/bumper... what about using pool noodles between the body & the rope where it will be tied tight?? Pool noodles. I never woulda thought of that. That's why yall are mechanically inclined and I am a computer nerd. And what are you all doing answering threads about 4x4 at this hour. Um wait a sec. I am here as well. Never mind. C. Edited July 26, 2006 by cvearl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvearl Posted July 26, 2006 Author Share Posted July 26, 2006 (edited) i have hauled my 17' canoe on my mustang for years man. i only use front and back painters.. never, ever have had any issues and i drive 80mph with the damn thing and have fourwheeled with it a lot too. just don't sweat it too much. have fun.there are always way to tie this thing down. when no hooks or the like i just run the rope around the bumper attachments. Oh for sure I have as well with my 96 Dodge Caravan and it survived several trips. I just wanted to preserve the front bumper as best as I can. Ah. It'll be fine I guess. But not sure about the bug deflector I just installed. It might get borked. I pull down on that canoe pretty hard. Not sure why but this one like to try and take off alot. Still in the honey moon phase with my new ride I guess. Sounds like alot of people go ahead and haul it regardless of having a Bush Gaurd or not. C. Edited July 26, 2006 by cvearl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkpath96 Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 (edited) I just put on a new bumper and know how you feel about preserving its looks... I used 5" sections of foam pipe insulation over the bumper and 4" sections of one of those pool noodles to protect the hood. I also put 1' sections of the noodles on the canoe edges to protect the roof. You can see these in the picture I attached. Works like a charm, the ropes can be thread right through the holes or just cut it open lengthwise to get the rope in. My concern is the weight on my roof rack... it's aftermarket and says it can hold 75 lbs max per bar = 150 lbs total. The canoe weighs 80 lbs but the forces imparted on it by tying it down surely surpass the weight limit... but knock on wood, no problems so far... Edited July 26, 2006 by dkpath96 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 dk, that's pretty cool.. they don't fly off? how about using a rope made out of soft material? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvearl Posted July 26, 2006 Author Share Posted July 26, 2006 I just put on a new bumper and know how you feel about preserving its looks...I used 5" sections of foam pipe insulation over the bumper and 4" sections of one of those pool noodles to protect the hood. I also put 1' sections of the noodles on the canoe edges to protect the roof. You can see these in the picture I attached. Works like a charm, the ropes can be thread right through the holes or just cut it open lengthwise to get the rope in. My concern is the weight on my roof rack... it's aftermarket and says it can hold 75 lbs max per bar = 150 lbs total. The canoe weighs 80 lbs but the forces imparted on it by tying it down surely surpass the weight limit... but knock on wood, no problems so far... Very nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 dk, that's pretty cool.. they don't fly off? Generally not. They're being compressed into the hood/bumper by the rope, holding them in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkpath96 Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 Haven't lost one yet... they are definitely compressed to the bumper/hood. I use those nifty ratchet ropes - the rope is pretty soft but I don't take any chances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvearl Posted July 27, 2006 Author Share Posted July 27, 2006 (edited) OK I am getting an el-cheapo Black Powdered Finnish Safari Bar for the front of the Pathfinder. It mounts just under the bumber and only comes as high as the top of the bumper. I can then use it to protect the front of the vehicle and give me something to tie down the front of the canoe with. Ill just use the mounting holes for the lamps to run the ropes through. With the canoe far enough forward I should be able to miss the front of her with the ropes. Eventually a brush gaurd might be nice but this will do for now. Best part is it was only $270 new. A friend with an impact socket driver will help me install it and I can go camping wihtout worrying about the bunper and bug deflector getting bunged up from ropes. If I like the look I could get the lamps that mount on it and Nissan lamp covers. Otherwise next year I will sell and upgrade the front exterier kit to something else. The other alternative was easily breaching the $500 mark. It was either a full 3" Tube bushgaurd and mounting kit or a complete Thule roofrack base kit with Canoe mounts. But that would have breeched $500 plus tax. Wife would not have liked that either. Thanks for all the suggestions. I will still use that pipe insulation trick to protect the Safari bar. C. Edited July 28, 2006 by cvearl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 I have been whitewater canoing and kayaking for many years. The front and back lines are never used to secure the boat to the roof. Pull those suckers tight and you'll fold your boat. Now, if you have one of those heavy duty 8000 pound canoes, I don't think it'll be a problem. Whitewater canoes are light enough and flex enough to have issues. anyway... where I was going with this... We mounted cross beams on the roof rack (one at the front of the roof, one at the tail) with the ropes attached in the center of each crossmember. You center your boat on the crossmembers and push it up against the rope mounts (now it's nice and balanced and straight). Bring your tie-down ropes over the canoe and loop under the crossmember right next to the canoe. Throw a tie-down loop in the rope and pass the loose end through it and pull it down TIGHT. Couple loops around the crossmember and half-hitch it. It's not going anywhere. Now... for security in case your ropes break or your rack comes loose, drop the rear painter to the trailer hitch or other tiedown spot. Take the front painter to the front of the vehicle and tie it off onto the nifty little mount loop that I'lld escribe next. Neither of these ropes should be heavily loaded, just taunt. Front tie-down... Get a 6" length of braided nylon strap (or parachute strap) that is thin and about an inch wide. Open your hood and locate a fender bolt near the front of the fender. Remove it and pass the bolt through a washer, the strap ends and bolt it back into the fender. There should easily be enough clearance for the strap. When you need it, pass the strap loop between the fender and the hood and use it to tie to. When not needed, it can hide under the hood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvearl Posted July 27, 2006 Author Share Posted July 27, 2006 (edited) I have been whitewater canoing and kayaking for many years. The front and back lines are never used to secure the boat to the roof. Pull those suckers tight and you'll fold your boat. Now, if you have one of those heavy duty 8000 pound canoes, I don't think it'll be a problem. Whitewater canoes are light enough and flex enough to have issues. anyway... where I was going with this... We mounted cross beams on the roof rack (one at the front of the roof, one at the tail) with the ropes attached in the center of each crossmember. You center your boat on the crossmembers and push it up against the rope mounts (now it's nice and balanced and straight). Bring your tie-down ropes over the canoe and loop under the crossmember right next to the canoe. Throw a tie-down loop in the rope and pass the loose end through it and pull it down TIGHT. Couple loops around the crossmember and half-hitch it. It's not going anywhere. Now... for security in case your ropes break or your rack comes loose, drop the rear painter to the trailer hitch or other tiedown spot. Take the front painter to the front of the vehicle and tie it off onto the nifty little mount loop that I'lld escribe next. Neither of these ropes should be heavily loaded, just taunt. Front tie-down... Get a 6" length of braided nylon strap (or parachute strap) that is thin and about an inch wide. Open your hood and locate a fender bolt near the front of the fender. Remove it and pass the bolt through a washer, the strap ends and bolt it back into the fender. There should easily be enough clearance for the strap. When you need it, pass the strap loop between the fender and the hood and use it to tie to. When not needed, it can hide under the hood. Very good point! Mainyl I always looked at front and back tie downs as a means of making sure the wind sheers do not wobble the front or back of the boat to much which might loosen the main tiedowns on the body of the boat to the roof. Did that make sense? But it's still ok to pull down really tight at the roof sides across the underbelly of the boat right? At least till it feels very safe up there? That hood tie down is briliant!!! Where were you yesterday??? Damn. Too late. The safari bar is non refundable even if I have not mounted it. C. Edited July 27, 2006 by cvearl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 (edited) pull as hard as you want cause the force is directly down onto the rack. If you have a pivot point on the room and pull on the end, you now introduce torque. plus... if your tie-down points across the body are against the gunwales (most people can't spell this), there is no side slippage at all. Edited July 27, 2006 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvearl Posted August 8, 2006 Author Share Posted August 8, 2006 (edited) OK here is the finnished result using the Safari Bar from Westin. The bar was easy as heck to install and about $200 Canadian to buy but still some rubbing of the straps on the bug deflector. In the future I will put a piece of shammy cloth to prevent scratching the Bug Deflector as they cost about $100 Canadian. Edited August 8, 2006 by cvearl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now