89_trailboss Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 I dont have a problem running my knock off K&N. ya, im sure it does let more crap in, but it sounds soo damn cool!!! around town I just leave the hi flow on, when I go wheelin, I run the hi flow and a fram(paper). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Extreme90path Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 (edited) I did the K&N Cone filter swap on my 90, and I loved the throwtiness of the intake but, but it basicly eliminated anyways of fording water. (I realized this after the fact) haha. But stupid as I was I ended up waterlocking it, which means pulling the plugs turning over the engine to get the water out of the cylinders, and crossing your fingers for not having any bent rods or screwed up sensors. So Lesson learned. CONE FILTER ARE GREAT FOR HONDAS... but not for anything that your even potentially going to end up going thru water with, or dirt roads or anything of the like. Now I am going to be installing the snorkle .... Cone filter = Big freakin mistake... Pic after my install on my old pathy... Edited July 23, 2006 by Extreme90path Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 So what I gather, there's absolutely no way to get more power at the intake without sucking in more dirt. I realize that to get more power you need to suck in more air, but with the K&Ns and the likes, is it the fact that there is more surface area? Or are they more porous? I wouldn't say that... go back to my previous post on increasing the size and/or quantity of the air ducts TO the stock airbox and stock paper filter. Stock ducts are almost always compromised to some degree (and to a BUNCH on some cars) for packaging and noise control. My '79 Chevy van with a 350 had a 1.25" restriction in the air intake (what WERE they thinking?????). Adding a second 2.5" duct to the stock air cleaner housing resulted in a BIG dose of "wow". I have always picked up at least a little hp and mpg by tweaking around. No, it is not as simple as bolting on a $5 cone filter (that you probably paid $50 for...), but it WILL give you some performance increase WITHOUT hurting filtration ability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 So, mws. What you're saying is that by adding an extra intake duct into the stock air box, you can match or nearly match the performance gain from a cone filter? That's sweet, I never even thought of doing something like that but it makes sense. So that means that I can make a big intake duct from the back or side of the box, run it straight up, and run it into a Lund 3M hood scoop! Yeeeeeea, Lund here I come... heh.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 On the '95 BMW 318is, I can say definitely yes, as I have the experimental results to prove it. On the '79 Chevy van, it was a humongous improvement. On your pathy, I can't say how much it will do. But I will bet a six pack of the barley pop of your choice it WILL make a noticeable difference. Stock air ducts are compromised to keep the sound levels down to meet EPA noise requirements. That almost always results in air restrictions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 Heck, when I pulled off the inner-fender air-box doohickey, I noticed a huge improvement in throttle response. I'm going to be adding the snorkel this weekend hopefully, if I can get ahold of John and get down to his house early enough to tackle it before we dive into the DUKW project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheel366 Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 If you are going to stay with a stock panel filter, try the new amsoil Ea filter. It's a synthetic media that is supposed to flow better than paper and gauze while holdling a lot more dirt. They are cheaper than a K&N also. They are good for 100,000 miles or 4 years and only need to be cleaned every year or 25,000 miles. My dad just switched to amsoil oil, Ea oil filter and Ea air filter and he said that his gas mileage went from 16 - 20 on the highway with the AC the whole time. He drives a 99 explorer. Plus, if you wanted to (I wouldn't though),amsoil says you can go 25,000 - 35,000 miles or one year per oil change if you use their oil and filter. Now, as the explorer goes, they do not put that many miles on it a year so they are going to change the oil once a year. I use the same oil and filter in the pathy, but I will be changing every 5k no matter what, plus I bought an amsoil oil filter relocation kit with the bypass filter. Haven't installed it yet, but it's going to be a pain finding room for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 If you are going to stay with a stock panel filter, try the new amsoil Ea filter. It's a synthetic media that is supposed to flow better than paper and gauze while holdling a lot more dirt. They are cheaper than a K&N also. They are good for 100,000 miles or 4 years and only need to be cleaned every year or 25,000 miles. My dad just switched to amsoil oil, Ea oil filter and Ea air filter and he said that his gas mileage went from 16 - 20 on the highway with the AC the whole time. He drives a 99 explorer. Plus, if you wanted to (I wouldn't though),amsoil says you can go 25,000 - 35,000 miles or one year per oil change if you use their oil and filter. Now, as the explorer goes, they do not put that many miles on it a year so they are going to change the oil once a year. I use the same oil and filter in the pathy, but I will be changing every 5k no matter what, plus I bought an amsoil oil filter relocation kit with the bypass filter. Haven't installed it yet, but it's going to be a pain finding room for it. Dang.....Double dang a year without an oil change? I have heard of amsoil but I have never heard that you can go 25-35 thousand miles that is nuts. I can see that maybe for an older person who only drives to the store and back. I just started using castrol syntec blend I have heard good and bad about synthetic so I figured I would go halfway with the blend. So far so good no leaks and I too plan on changing it every 5k if I am driving around the city and highway but 3k if I take her wheelin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheel366 Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 I'M not saying to go 25k - 35k a year. They do! I would still change every 5k, or in the case of my S4, every 6 months. I've been using synthetic in my S4 for 6 years and in the pathy since I got her. I even have my dad using synthetic in his 96 lumina and his 84 volvo. He is now going to change oil once a year in both of those since he doesn't drive that many miles and only drives each one for half a year. My S4 has twin turbos, but I have a new chip so I have to change at least every 6 months. Plus I'm getting an oil cooler soon too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 I think it's time I go out and mess with my stock air box and intake... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 Have fun! As long as you are playing with stuff BEFORE the air filter element, you really can't hurt much. Playing with duct work AFTER the filter can be a little more tricky as you can create pressure harmonics and weird problems... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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