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Everything posted by SamTex
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No crank when the key is turned to the start position. It's hard to start when I manually send juice to the solenoid wire, I assume because my key isn't in the start position telling the ECU.
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'95 auto, gremlins in the starting circuit. It's already got the relay mod. When I send 12v to the solenoid's signal wire, it will start. If I do this from the key, I get everything but a start. What is preventing a start signal from my ignition? I've swapped out all the relays and tested all the fuses I can find. I'm about fed up and ready to make this baby push button start!!
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Bam http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31634&st=0&p=596904&hl=relocating&fromsearch=1entry596904 I've had that box out several times, not sure how I missed the opportunity to bend something for a better fit. It's a way of life for my ride! Thanks fella's!
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Does anyone have a good solution for a replacement intake hose? From the air box to the intake? Since I installed my 3" body lift I've replaced this thing twice. They are always old, dry and tough so obviously don't last long when you force them to make the "body lift bend". I eventually hope to find a better air box to use. The stock one has gotten warped and I doubt it's ability to seal well when I build a snorkel...
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Pulled my transmission last night, dreading the re-install. But, a beefed up torque converter and shift kit for the trans will make it all worth it. Now it's on to the rear main seal and whatever that other one is...
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Rite on, I'll try that!
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I've got a drill press, just not sure how I'll get that whole steering system up there, secure and level for a nice clean bore. Ha, I tried getting that arm off the first time, not even going to try that route again. I looked at stepper bits too, couldn't find any that ended in 5/8, they kept going a few sizes larger. Time to use the internets for that perfect bit. If all else fails I'll just find a machine shop. They'd probably do a better job anyway... Thanks guys!!
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You guys just gotta beat your chest like a mad man and yank that starter for test/inspection. No excuses. You drive a Nissan Pathfinder! Mhay, I live outside of the DFW area. PM me with a price and I'll drop by to have a look see.
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Yall have any better methods of enlarging this hole to 5/8? I've already had the grassroots CL installed for a year or more, but I'm going for better results when modifying the pitman. I've pulled the steering box from my parts truck and want this hole to be perfect. The first time I did it I had to stop half way through and leave for work, my dad elected to "help" while I was gone and finished the drilling for me. The result was a hole that a 5/8 bolt would fit through, but was more or less "egged" allowing the bolt to wobble around. As the old saying goes, if you want the job done right.....ask NPORA I really don't want to trash another $25 bit or chance a less than perfect result. Give me some options!
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Woah, I need to get to work on that parts pathy of mine....
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still have noise under truck pass. side
SamTex replied to ahardb0dy's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
You got a body lift from AC? My seat felt like it was popping when my weight would shift over a bump or hill. The drive shaft loop extensions made it so the loop was kind of in a neutral position, if you will, it wasn't resting firmly against the frame mount. Jabbed an old tire iron in there...good to go! Figured it would come in handy if for some reason I get knocked on my ass having to defend myself I can grab that iron and come out from under my pathy like Chuck Norris and wop a dude. -
I think he may be referring to limited slip noise from the axle when backing out of a parking spot.
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Ya dude, if it's not right on one end I doubt it's right on the other...get what you paid for and exchange it!
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I had no problems with KMA. I have yet to beat on it....but I'll get there
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I say 4 door, but not because it's "newer". I'm a single guy and have no real need for the extra doors, but they sure are convenient. When I hit the dirt I usually have several people with me. The guys I roll around with have full size bronco's, I hate getting in and out of those things if I'm riding in the back. Instead of opening a door and jumping in there's all kinds of hassle with the seats and whatever may be in the way or whoever is in the front seat. I'll take the ease of access with four doors for my dog, passengers and whatever gear I'm carrying over a two door any day.
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Just an update, I installed a filter relocation kit from Summit, went in no problem, works fine. Replaced a working 02 from a parts truck, still get my CEL. Just have it unplugged for now, but will be installing a simulator to get correct A/F ratio and get rid of that light.
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Agree 100% that replacing boots is 10x the job of just swapping axles. Can't say for sure on the quality of O'rielly CV's, but for $60 bucks a pop and lifetime replacement for a swap that takes less than hour..... I've done both jobs. I won't be repairing boot's anymore thanks to the replacement guarantee, but if I hadn't already bought them and needed to save the money....time to get greasy and just buy some rubber. Mmmmm, good
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95 SE 137k....still a baby
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I would check the exhaust mounts. Mine was making this grinding sound when coming to a stop. I thought for sure it was my torque converter, after further inspection I found all my mounts holding the exhaust up had broken and most of it was just laying on the frame.
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Right on. Have fun! It's a messy job, or maybe I'm just a messy mechanic Great looking rig btw!!
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You can get just the boot kits at the local parts store. Hear any popping yet when wheeling? If so I'd just swap 'em out for new...mine came with lifetime replacement warranty!
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I'm getting a CEL now, going to pull into the shop tonight and have a look see... I just cleaned my MAF last night Looks similar, but it's way further back and doesn't go under the transmission pan like that one. It's also two pieces with a flange in the middle for easy removal.
