big_johnson

another...

Thanks . When I'm done with all my fuel saving mods, I plan to be getting over 21 mpg (hopefully) I would have done an install write-up, but I couldn't have done it any better than this guy: Dean Here are some pics. They aren't great, but its 30 degrees, gray, and snowing here so I decided to take them in the garage.

Check out the procedure in the 96+ forum, thats how I did mine

How about some pics?

You know what, as soon as its light out here, I will take some pics and post them. I would have posted some as soon as I put the hubs on, but I figured that I'd wait until I got actual mileage results before sharing. All in good time

Box? there was no box involved when I reprogrammed my 97. All I needed was the new fob and my key, then the procedure instructions.

Just like the title says, I got 19.17 mpg with my newly installed warn manual hubs. A lot of stop and go traffic, but a decent amount of freeway also. This is about a 2mpg improvement over what I was getting before. I also filled up at a gas station that has repeatedly given me slightly lower fuel economy than other stations. Overall, I think this is a mod that every R50 owner should do. Just thought I'd share

yeah, I don't see why the stereo wouldn't get power without the antenna, maybe bad reception though. Putting a new one in there should be easier than the Nissan guy told you, just don't connect the new one to the power antenna motor but hook everything else up and you should be fine. I could be wrong, but I think the Nissan guy just made too big of a deal out of it. You could always just do a little trial and error, and figure it out that way.

One thing to note is that the R50 has full time front hubs (aka drive flange), not auto locks. So you can engage and disengage 4wheel drive while you are moving and not do any harm, at speeds up to 55. From 2wd to 4hi (as stated above somewhere), you just pull the lever back until you feel it "clunk" into place. And 88 covered going from 4hi to 4lo and vice versa.

You can definitely get around in 2wd, just have to learn the car's limits. I sometimes just leave it in 2wd in snowstorms (not on crowded streets though) to have a little fun, and I do fine.

because my stock brakes worked just fine, I saw no need to upgrade. I'm almost never in situations where extreme braking force is needed, I prefer to coast to stops and use a little compression braking.

I'm guessing your 98 is identical to my 97, so here goes. The cannister is held on by a few bolts (dont remember the exact number), but its not really a problem. I just removed the bolts and let it hang out of the way. Then slid the hitch on (probably the hardest part), put those bolts in, tightened them up, and hooked up the evap cannister again.

I didn't feel that my pathy needed any more stopping power, so I just went to pep boys and had them get me the front pads listed for my model. They were pretty cheap, and work just fine for me. I figure that minimal acceleration power requires minimal stopping power

Well, I did get mine from AC, just for the convenience factor. I didn't want to mess with part numbers and things like that, I think its easier to just click on the hubs that are listed for 96+ pathfinders. The total was $141 something, 130 for the hubs and 11 something for the shipping. BTW, they are in now, and its great. I got 170 miles to the half way mark on the tank, as opposed to the usual 155.

Sounds like its all been covered here, but I'll throw in a few things. Its not only the 99+ pathys with the drive flanges, its the 96+. I just installed warn manuals on my 97 pathy yesterday, and they are great. I spun the wheel by hand with the hub both locked and unlocked, there was a big difference in drag. Right now, I have 170 miles to the halfway mark on the tank, as opposed to usually 155. I'll have to see what the overall mileage is at the end of the week. Just thought I'd throw this info in here

I'm not sure, but I just got mine in today. I can't wait to install them . You could measure the outside diameter of the hubs and you could see if they will fit through your wheels. Or you could just wait, you wont need them until you get the lift, but they would save on gas mileage until you do get the other stuff.

Thanks for the input. I think that AR rims look nice,but I'm not sure if I like that super shiny look. I was also thinking the ones like Deans (in the attachment), Panther EMR 108 polished. Any opinions?

That sounds about right. I don't think you'd lose any power just doing one or the other, but you would definitely not get the full benefit out of either without both. (did that make sense? )

I do like those, but I'm not sure about the black rims on black car thing. I was thinking about getting those with some mud terrains mounted on them, just to serve as offroading rims, so I could switch back to my normal setup on the street. Any more opinions?

Here's the calculation: (265 x .70) x 2 = 371 mm 25.4 x 16 = 406.4 mm 371 + 406.6 = 777.4 mm 777.4 / 25.4 = 30.6 inches So with the 265/70R16's, your actual tire diameter would be 30.6 inches. However, with the 31x10.5x15, the stated diameter is 31, but actual diameters are always less than stated. So both setups would be about equal. It depends on whether you want to get the new rims or not. Another thing to consider would be getting 265/75R15's instead of the 31x10.5x15's, they would be the same exact diameter as the tires you listed with the 16's. hope this helped

Does anybody here have any feedback or personal experience regarding the quality, durability, etc. of american racing aluminum rims? I have heard several people bash them, saying that they become corroded easily and lose their finish. I'm considering getting some here soon (either the Pythons, Sliders, or Atlas'), but I don't want something that will look like crap in a few months. Thanks

An even better site for audio stuff is woofersetc.com, great prices. Do you have any pics of the new deck?

If by "improving backpressure" you mean reducing it, you would be right. However, without a muffler, I think that there would be too little backpressure and you would actually lose performance. For my engine, I know that the largest pipe you would want to run with a muffler is 2.5, any larger would have a negative effect. Without a muffler, I'd imagine that a smaller pipe would be required. But if you want it loud, straight pipes sans muffler would do the trick.

I have the RS9000x and they're great But I think the RSX's are pretty high tech, maybe the top of Ranchos line. And I think the RS5000's are a bit further down in rank.

There should be a rubber boot around the shifter, underneath the top boot. Maybe that's coming off or loose.