k9sar

Nice pic of the Power-Out can. Are those your pretty pink fingernails Jim? :D

If the distributer does not work, I would suggest an exorcism. Your rig obviously has some demons that don't want to leave. Besides the mass airflow sensor I mentioned earlier, the only other problem I have had with my 95 and idle oscillations has been due to a fuel filter (but you've addressed that already). Sorry, but this one has me stumped too.

two words.... DUCT TAPE!

Does the moderation cover the use of all those goofball slang profane phrases that are thrown around in non USA areas? I know this site is international but would anyone really know if I was swearing up a storm in German or Russian? Just curious. ps. No offense intended to our friends to the north or down-under (or anywhere else for that matter, except Texas)

sit at idle with it fluctuating, open your hood and wiggle the connector on top of the mass airflow sensor. Good 'ol Nissan designed this poorly, with the connector on top and the wire coming straight out of the top (as opposed to a 90 degree connector). The result is that the wire from the mass airflow sensor actually hits the underside of the hood and flexes every time you open/close the hood. If that connection is bad, you'r pathy will not run for crud. If wiggling it makes no difference, that's not your problem. Good luck

I have yet to read anything in these forums in which profanity was necessary. There are many ways to get your point across without being vulgar. Be creative. I think Jim is doing a great job with this board and would not like to see it turn into a big gripe session where every other post is F-this or F-that. Now... with that said... my stoopid frelling pathy is still leaking gas somewhere and I can't find it in this bleeping no-degree weather.

Thanks It hasn't happened since my post but I have a few things to look at once the temp gets a little higher. Maintenance in the winter sucks! I have a garage but that's where I keep all my tools.

When I looked at Pep Boys, they did not carry the right size for the Pathfinder. Maybe it was just my local store. Good luck

This just started happenning over the past week or so. When I get into my Pathfinder and start it up, I smell gasoline. The smell does not seem to be there before I turn the key and it seems to go away fairly soon after it's been running but I will be paying much more attention over the next couple days. It runs fine and I get no engine warning (would expect one if I had a leaky injector). Any thoughts? For the record, it's a 95 4-door SE . Thanks

I ordered mine at http://www.alloemautoparts.com/. got them for 40 bucks or so a couple years ago. I think www.thepartsbin.com was similarly priced.

The main reason for fog lights to be placed low or pointing down is to minimize the reflection of light back into your vision. With dense fog or heavy snowfall, the reflection from normal headlights will nearly prevent you from seeing the ground. I drive with just the fogs on when it's like that.

on my '95, I mounted my fogs on the front cow-guard. There's a pic in the 'what can you fit' topic. If I were doing off-road lights, I'd want them high... like on the roof for better illumination of the trail.

Straight from the 94/95 manuals.... Engine Oil - VG30E engine ------------ capacity w/ oil filter 3-5/8 qt capacity w/o filter 3-1/8 qt reco type - Energy Conserving Oils (EC-I, EC-II) of API SG or SH reco viscosity - based on outside temperature before your next oil change 5W30 - all temps 10W30 or 10W40 - temps above 0 deg F 20W40 or 20W50 - temps above 50 deg F Cooling system - Ethylene glycol base anti-freeze coolant Manual trans gear oil / Manual steering gear oil - API GL-4 (plus see viscosity chart below) Auto trans fluid / Transfer gear oil - Genuing Nissan ATF or equiv (check w/dealer for acceptable substitutes) Differential carrier gear oil - Standard differential gear : API GL-5 (see viscosity below) Limited-slip differential (LSD) gear : use only LSD gear oil API GL-5 and SAE 80W90(temps above 0 deg F) approved for Nissan LSD (check w/ dealer for acceptable oils) Power steering fluid - type DEXRON II or equiv Brake and clutch fluid - Genuine Nissan brake fluid or equiv DOT 3 (US FMVSS No. 116) Multi-purpose grease - NLGI No. 2 (Lithium soap base) Free-running hub grease (auto lock) - genuine Nissan grease or equiv Gear Oil Viscosity (depends on temp) -------------------------------------------- always below 50 deg F - 75W always below 86 deg F - 80W always below 104 def F - 75W90 or 80W90 between 14 and 86 deg F - 85W between 32 and 104 deg F - 90 always above 50 deg F - 140 75W90 transmission and 80W90 differential if temps always below 104 Hope this helps.

Glad to hear the issue is resolved.

I never pulled mine. Got in with a shop-vac and rubber hose and cleaned it out in place. Probed out the drain tube, then flushed with clean water from inside to make sure remaining crud drained out. I do recall that I tried to take it apart further but had great difficulty and decided not to.

You'll do fine with the 94 manual. The original 94 manual was a couple inches thick. For 95, they issued an inch thick manual as a suppliment to the full 94. THis contained updates/corrections to the 94 manual as well as updates for what changed for 95. Like I said, it wasn't a thick manual and I have not yet run into something that was specifically 95 that wasn't close enough to 94 to figure out easily. I left a note for myself to check the books tonight for the fluids and I'll let you know.

that would certainly tell you if the drain was clogged. For mine, it would have been a real short solution as I had lots of stuff in the collection tray that would have clogged it up right away again.

I had a similar problem. The drain tube had gotten clogged from debris coming in througfh the blower under the passenger dash. Condensation overflowed the tray when turning and made a heck of a mess (not to mention some interesting noises when water spilled into the fan). Pulled out the fan unit and cleaned out the collection tray and drain tube. No problems now. I can give you better information when I get home tonight but it was pretty straight forward.

mine does that from time to time too. I just unlock it again (and agian) and by the third or fourth time, I can get in. I guess that's better than UNlocking itself all the time.

IF it's an auto trans, I would suggest taking it into a tranny shop for a rebuild. You probably just need new clutch rings but, if they are going to be in there, you may as well get a full rebuild (all clutches, any gear rings necessary, seals, etc). I lost my rear pump and subsequently trans oil pressure so my reverse gear went. From the looks of the guts when we opened it, I was on borrowed time with the rest of it. It cost be about 1500 for a full rebuild, new torque converter and a rear pump (including all labor). They threw a 5K reinspect and a 15K mile warrenty on top of it. I thought it was a good deal. Good luck. ps. Before committing to the work, certainly a discussion with the shop should be free and provide some more insight.

what can I fit.... hmmm... I can fit ME!

I piled 60 retaining wall blocks and 10 bags of concrete in mine... twice. She had a bad case of the squats but nothing broke.