k9sar

I just want to break from the discussion for one post and state that I'm really impressed by Slick. It's not often that you find a chick (not intended to be derogatory) that can or is willing to get their hands dirty like this. Now, if I can just get my wife to let me know when her van starts making horrible noises rather than let me find out on the rare occasion when I drive it....

$2.15

150's is a bit low for compression but not disturbing, especially since you said you had already drained the oil. If you really want to see if it's ring-wear and low due to being dry, dump a tablespoon or so of oil in through the sparkplug hole. Replace the plug (or equivalent) and crank it a couple times to get the oil distributed into the rings. Then recheck the compression. It SHOULD go up into the 170's if it were due to dryness. Min compression in a VG30 is 128, normal is 173. There should not be a difference between cylinders of greater than 14psi (which you have). If pressure does not come up by adding oil, you may have a sticking, worn or improperly seating valve. Once you get a new set of readings, if there are adjacent cylinders (like 2 and 4) with low compression, you're now talking a breech in the head gasket.

my 95 did not have a CD player but I put one in. The unit listed for my truck was about 300 bucks but there was one which was basically the same but with a different connector for an altima for 80 on clearance. A little rewiring and it works great. I'll see if I can pull it out and get some wiring info for you in the next couple days (if you can wait).

Hey I do too have a friend. hey, virtual friends don't count.... ... was gonna make a comment about $3.99 per minute but I guess I won't.

I pop-riveted a sheet of aluminum siding in a friends old galaxy 300 where the floor rotted out. He wanted to sell it but put his foot through the floor. A little rubberized undercoating to hide the bottom and a floormat to hide the inside. Worked like a charm and aluminum don't rust!

hehehehe I figured you couldn't leave that one alone Pezzy.

there are many parts to the engine. Knocking in some of them is easily fixed. Knocking in others is fatal. Could be a lifter, could be a piston, could be bad main bearings, could be a stick jammed in the fan blades. Don't just assume the engine is shot. Figure out what part of the engine and we can be of much more help.

a nice flame thrower works well too. Just burn it off.

Hey... NR's right... we shouldn't keep bashing jeep owners. Heck, it's not like they're canadians or something. Now there's some bashing that needs to happen!

BOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!! HISSSSSSSS!!!!!!!

you need to know where the knocking is coming from. While it's running (and making noise), see if you can tell if it's from the valve covers, oil pan, or elsewhere.

ok... we'll just call them "Trail Challenged"

ummm... cause it's fun.

did you really have to do this? Ladies and Gentlemen... another finalist in the "Bad Pun of the Year Contest"

I work with a guy who has a doctorate in some aspect of engineering and he recently came into the office asking if anyone knew about cars. Seems he was out at lunch and the person behind him informed him that his brake lights were out... all 3 of them (he has the top middle one too). He came in with his owners manual and said that he didn't think it was likely that all 3 bulbs went out within a couple days of each other. He actually started to calculate the probability of that happenning but I told him that I'd take a look. We went out to the parking lot where he led me to this fairly new grand cherokee. I asked him where his fuse block was and I just got a blank stare. So I find the cover and check his fuse. it's good. Next, I crawled under the dash and found the connector to the brake pedal sensor. The connector was half off and had obviously been kicked a couple times. I plugged it back in and asked him to check the lights as I pushed the pedal. They worked. He asked what I had done..... hmmmm... what HAD I done... I then entered into an explaination of the newer jeeps using a tap off the headlight fluid resevoir to supply the brake lights. I casually informed him that the line looked dry so I disconnected it and blew out the blockage that was preventing the headlight fluid from flowing into the line. I reconnected the line and saw that fluid was now flowing to the rear of the vehicle but told him that, since I had only dislodged the blockage, it would probably fail again. He should drain his headlight fluid and flush the system out before refilling it. I thought I'd get a nice laugh out of him but he informed me that he doesn't do any of his own work so he'll have it done the next time he drops it off at the dealership for maintenance. It was all I could do not to bust out laughing. I composed myself and added... make sure they use the right headlight fluid for your year SUV and don't let them get away with using the cheaper 'blinker fluid' in place of genuine headlight fluid. They may even be able to install a fluid filter for you so it doesn't happen again. I'm now waiting for the day he comes into the office after dropping off the jeep. The anticipation is killing me.

if there's fluid in the cylinder, that's all it'd do. pull the plugs and crank it over!!! I have filled a 4-banger with water (thought it was a sub) and once I pulled the plugs and sent 4 geyesers into the sky, I put the old plugs back in and she started right up. It ran a little rough while it blew steam out the exhaust and got the remainder of the water out. Followed that with a good oil flush and change, a new air and oil filter and she ran for another few years before i sold it. Son't be confused by the work 'seized'. there's a difference between seized (metal bonded to metal due to friction) and fluid-locked. I replaced the engine in my 95. Best to avoid that unless it's absolutely necessary. ps. nice little mud hole. those are always fun to empty

sorry, can't help you there. I have an AT and I did my seals when I had the engine out.

my mistake. 88 is right, see page 44 (MA-10) of the following: http://www.Nissan-techinfo.com/Nissan/refg...thfinder/MA.pdf

a good oil leak just means that you never have to change it.

sounds like your rear engine seal is leaking into the clutch housing and running down the inside to the hole.

if I recall correctly, you just remove the top bolt and loosen the bottom. the compressor should pivot on the lower and allow you to replace the belt. To tighten it, throw a big screwdriver between the compressor and the mount bracket. pry and tighten.

check the following posts for information: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=3697 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=3220

ebay. search on G57NTX318. there's 3 on there now.

My son's birthday party is that weekend and the boss immediately shot down the idea of me going wheelin' rather than hang around the house with a couple dozen 8-year-olds. Dang it... and I'm only about an hour away too.