k9sar

I added an injector cleaner to my gas and did a lot of full-on/off cycling of the injectors by stomping on the gas then letting off clomletely. After my tank of gas and rough driving, I reset the ECU and the code did not return.

removal of passenger seat(s). Better to hear the creaking of the springs and thumping of the rocks hitting the underside than to hear the shreaking of the frightened passengers.

just found out that my co-worker's state inspection is due in May. I hope he remembers to ask.

how about the humanity of teeing up a cane toad... CANBERRA (Reuters) - Australians in the country's Northern Territory should start smashing cane toads to death with golf clubs and cricket bats in a bid to stop the spread of the toxic creatures, a government politician urged Monday... I'm sure they're easy to hit but I don't think you'll get the distance off the tee to even think of making par.

Come on everyone... let's all head to Wisconsin fer a little cat-huntin! cnn.com story I love this part.... "...including any domestic cat that isn't under the owner's direct control or any cat without a collar..." What are you cheese-heads smokin' up there?????

it's on the way. I dropped it off at the post office this afternoon so it may arrive by this weekend. Of course, they ask you a bunch of questions like... is it hazardous, etc... I told them it was but only if you tried to swallow it whole or shove it completely up your nose. No friggin sense of humor. It's no wonder they crack and go on shooting rampages.

um... code 33. If the mechanic said that, he/she's an idiot.

nothing like politicians to ruin a good time

I had a similar problem. Turns out that it's a problem with the volume control on your radio. Easily fixed.

Well, I picked up a cheap tie-rod end at the local Advanced Auto. I told them I needed the drivers side inner and they promptly hand me the wrong one. I'm guessing that, although I have never pulled my tie rods out completely, the drivers side was in backwards. I told them to give me the outer and it was threaded correctly (and a couple dollars cheaper) and I put it on yesterday. Just a big hammer and a little cussin to break it loose, a couple monster wrenches to free the lock nut and I'm back on the road. Good enough to pass state safety inspection. I guess I really did need one. Are they supposed to rattle around when you shake them?

email me your mailing address and I'll drop it off at the post office at lunchtime on Monday.

hehehehehehe.

a small block chevy?

yea.. for the price of buying the end I need locally, I can ge the entire tie-rod mail order and not have to worry about left or right handed. I'm a firm believer that you should have at least a little mechanical know-how if you are gonna sell mechanical stuff. Just like I wouldn't buy a stereo system from a burger-flippin junkie who can't figure out why he can't fit 8 tapes in an 8-track player.. 8's 8, right?

so this only is needed if your frame is bent?

So I need an inner tie rod end for my pathy. I call the local dealership parts dept and they tell me that the tie rod ends only matter by what side of the vehicle they are on, not the inner or outer. By this logic, the drivers side inner and outer are interchangeable (and confirmed by the parts moron). Let's think about this logically..... In order to adjust your toe-in without removing the tie-rods, one must be a right-hand-thread and the other must be a left-hand thread. That, to me, does not sound interchangeable. I called 3 other dealerships and got the same answer. I guess they just look in their little books WHICH ARE WRONG and act like they have any idea about how mechanical crap works! Did I vent enough???? Now, I called the local after-market parts place and they tell me that the inner is different from the outer (yay) but they tell me that the inner is a left-hand thread. Funny, I crawled under and it's definately right-hand. So he starts telling me that, sometimes if a mechanic can't get the toe-in adjusted right, they'll flip the tie-rods around so they screw the other way. WHAT?!?!?!?!?!?! Dude... LOOSE IS LOOSE, TIGHT IS TIGHT. No matter if the inner is inner and the outer is outer or the outer is inner and the inner is outer, you are either spreading them or shortening the length. UNfskcINGBELIEVABLE!!!!!!!!!! AND... to make matters worse, nobody stocks them so I can't just walk in with mine and say.... this one. They want me to pay ahead of time and special order. AND.... if I choose to order one of each and I only keep one, there is a freaking restocking fee for the other one. I'm ready to scream!!!!!!!!!

Howdy Neighbor!

charge you for nothing.

I have a spare set of those funky little bolts laying on the floor of my garage along with the timing belt cover and other assorted front-engine pieces. I could have mailed you one.

Usually, after working my best deal and getting a final figure from the stealership, I say something like "throw in a factory service manual and a jar of touchup and you've got a deal" Hasn't failed yet. The salesman is so close to closing the deal that they can taste their comission. What's another hundred bucks (retail, probably 30 cost) to seal it?

I agree. You just couldn't kill one of those either. Shame International focused on making semi's

My pump was shot and I wasn't in a position to do the work myself so I had the tranny shop replace all the clutch discs etc while thery were in it.

mine ('95) says Sport/Comfort and I can definately tell the difference when I drive.

if it's an auto, good fluid level and won't go in reverse... it's probably too late. Chances are your tranny is already shot. Could be your oil pump going bad (low pressure), could be your reverse clutch, high clutch, reverse brake assembly, etc. Have you run the self-diagnostic procedure to check your sensors etc? A line pressure test can also help isolate the problem and is fairly straingtforward to do. If your line pressure is low, reverse is first to go.