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k9sar

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Posts posted by k9sar

  1. First, it is completely possible that the battery is bad. It can happen. It should be taken to a shop or parts store and bench tested. Another way to see if there is a bad cell is to make sure it is at full charge, throw a voltmeter on it and see what the voltage is on draw down while starting. It should not be below 10v while cranking. Make sure you are testing terminal to terminal, not on the clamps. This is the only true way to read the battery. If the voltage drops below 10V, the battery is low in charge (which is why you should start with a full charge, low in water (though most batteries nowadays are maintenance-free and you should not have to add water, or your internal resistance is too high (bad cell, needs to be replaced)

    Then, connect your voltmeter from clamp to clamp and check the voltage again during start. Your reading should be within .1V as the prior test. If not, you should pull the clamps, clean the terminals and reinstall, then repeat the test. Third, connect the meter to the positive cable at the starter and to case ground and repeat the test. You should not have a variance of more than a half volt. IF you do, you probably have a bad cable or something else in the flow that is causing resistance (bad relay, whatever)

     

    As for the alternator, 13.8 is the bare minimum you would expect to see while running. It should be more like 14+. You can test the alternator by connecting your meter to the battery posts, start the car and let idle. Turn on the high-beam headlights and check your voltage. It should be between 13.8 and 14.5. Then, if you increase your revs to 1500rpm, you should be reading between 14.2 and 14.6. If not, the alternator may have bad diodes. Then turn off the headlights and check the voltage again (still at 1500rpm). If your voltage exceeds 14.8, you probably have a bad voltage regulator in your alternator.

     

    Also, you mention that "the starter, alternator and battery are all new"... Do you trust that your 'shop' used a new starter and not just one that was returned, possibly defective? Starters can also be bench tested but they are a pain in the ass to remove. The alternator is a rebuild and, based on the voltage output, I would suspect that is a problem.

     

    Hope any of this helps

  2. Thanks for the info. I have talked to Nissan mechanic and he said to just replace them but I know that easy to spend other people's money. I think I'll save and get new from Nissan. Would you use diesel to clean the varnish from lifter assembly?

     

    I used either coleman fuel (naphthalene) or even oven cleaner (the good stuff with lye). Cleans them right up. Here's an example when I rebuilt a dodge 3.8l engine...

    Img_1156-vi.jpg

     

    Img_1171-vi.jpg

  3. Can the lifters be disassembled, cleaned and re assembled? 91 3.0, I have had apart as far as the inner sleeve but couldn't get it out, any secret or tool? Released pressure by depressing ball valve and pulling up with a plastic rod but couldn't get the sleeve out. Any how to or suggestions.?

     

    yes, they can be taken apart and cleaned. I put an appropriate sized socket (open end) over the end of the lifter and slammed it on the ground until the guts fell out. Worked like a charm to get them apart. reassembly is easy. As for putting them back in? dunno, never went there.

  4. Hi everyone. I'm Tom from PA. Just bought a 2001 SE. So far I'm in love with everything about the vehicle. It's bone stock from the original owner. It had 178k on it when I bought it. My plans in the future are to lift it (2" max) slap some 31s wrapped around some black wagon wheels on it. Do a roof basket and retro a rear spare mount for it. Glad this page exists because I know absolutely nothing about my pathy hahaha. Looking forward to picking everyone's brain and offering when I can.

     

    Hi Tom. What part of PA do you hail from? There are a few members around here who may be in a position to lend a hand if needed.

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