Precise1

LOL 88, make up your mind !! From 'want it ?' to 'I'm saving it to cut up' in 2 hours and 13 minutes... You related to my GF ? I'm interested in tow hitch, roof rack, side bars, and grill guard but don't expect you to go shopping for me. I'm hoping my neighbors '89 will die soon so I can scavenge it. He is a tow truck driver, and it sounds like it's ready for his services any time now. Bernard

Hey 88. Or to Ca should not be that bad, and its under UPS 1 box shipping weight. Is the bolt up the same for a 95 ? How much do you want for it ? Got any other external items ? Bernard

Say, you wouldn't happen to have an extra trailer hitch or roof rack on the 95 parts truck that don't need ? Hmm ? Bernard

Hey Brando. Do you have a manual for the truck ? That will show the sensors far better than I could explain. Just check all electrical connectors you can find first. Is the timing correct? I'd guess that you have some sort of air/fuel issue when its running cold, and that part of the system is not used at operation temp, but plugs/wires/etc could still be part/all of it and reading the plugs can tell you a lot about how the engine is running. Is your gas milage ok ? I wouldn't be too afraid of injector cleaner, and if you injectors are clogged/dirty it could cause problems when the combustion chamber is cold. Sorry this isn't very specific yet, but there are a lot of possible factors. Just start by checking as much as possible, and replacing the simple cheap things. This usually narrows things down quickly. mzxtreme, 22mm is .866" so a 7/8 wrench is very close. A little trick is to insert a piece of shim stock or an old feeler gauge if it feels too loose. .005"-.008" should do you fine. Can you get an adjustable wrench on it ? I'd save the pipe wrench for last... Bernard

First I'd have someone pull the hood release lever and see if I could hear, see anything move at the latch. Then I would have them hold the lever and try pushing down hard and releasing quickly/ pushing wiggling the hood around. Then I would try the same while they hold the inside lever and you hold the hood lever, all the while keeping a firm grip on the single shriveled remaining testicle so it doesn't desert you... Does the hood pop up then the inside lever is pulled ? Can you remove some of the grill so you can access the mechanism ?? Have you ever opened a car hood before ? Good Luck, I'd be pissed... Bernard

$2.30/gal is the cheapest I've seen for 87 here north of San Francisco. When I run errands I try to organize a route, and do them all in a big circle LOL. It really hurts when you are unemployed... But, as long as I'm insuring that the "Have's" have more, I guess I'm doing my part for the economy Bernard

The ECU codes are here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21 I'm not going to guess. Good luck ! Bernard

75$ a BOLT ??!?!! Go somewhere else... I used to quote (machining) jobs and thats how you tell someone you don't want to deal with it; charge a large fee. Then if they do pay it, it turns into a $ maker regardless... Also, if you were to remove the heads (to change them) it would be much easier and cheaper to have the bolts (studs ?) extracted then. LOL, drive over here. I'll only charge ya $50 a bolt AND buy the beer Bernard

(snicker...) I'm not sure that dual pipes would gain you anything other than easier oil pan removal... Maybe if you had the motor ported/polished/cammed, otherwise I think its just extra expense. Go with the headers into 2 or 2.5" pipe to 2.5 or 3" after the merge, hi flow cat and a good muffler. That combined with a good intake will probably give you any gains realistically possible, and will sound good to boot. Bernard

R-ather O-btuse L-anguage M-eant A-s O-ffence B

I second the thermostat possibility. It may have been junk out of the box... Do you have a fan clutch ? Check that also; if it spins freely that may also be the culprit... Bernard

Is there any difference when the vehicle is hot ot cold ? When was the last tune up ? Have you used injector cleaner lately ? How many miles on the truck ? I'd look at the ignition (spark) system, use some injector cleaner, check air filter, check inline fuel filter (behind the battery). If none of this helps, maybe you have a sensor or connector failing. Check all the wires and connectors you can, using dielectric grease cant hurt. Does your check engine light ever come on ? Maybe try checking the error codes on the ECU. There is a good write up at the top of this page I believe. Just guesses, but this is where I would start. Good luck. Bernard

USMCDD, try bleeding the brakes (if you haven't) and hopefully you didn't have grease/oil on the rotors, You hosed it all down with brake cleaner ? Just be careful when you drive to the shop ! I'm chuckling about your 'custom' multiuseless lug nut wrench. I recall doing similiar things in the past. The right tool is invaluable, but it takes a while to get a good assortment together. I highly recommend a 1/2 drive breaker bar; cheap and effective. Good luck. Bernard

Try using a penetrating oil/solvent like PB Blaster, etc. While Water Displacement-40 is perhaps better than nothing, as the name shows, thats not really what it is for. Try 'ringing' the bolt (hitting it squarely on the head a few times with a ball peen hammer) soaking it will P-oil. Do you have a hand impact driver ? They will sometimes break bolts free. Try heat if the others fail, but be careful of flamable solvents !! Good luck.. Bernard

I had mine off, and it was sort of a pain. What I used is a LONG extension with a universal and socket. One of them I believe I used 2 mediun extensions and 2 universals. It is possible to get up there, it just takes some patience and different combinations. Trying to do it while being snowed on would not help either. Hang in there, you'll get it. Bernard

Just a thought about the different springs. Perhaps they are part of a tow or offroad package. Looking for hitches, or different rims/bigger tires may define it... Maybe I'm nuts... Bernard

Hey Austin, and welcome. The tough part about what you ask (reliability/longevity) is it really depends on how it was driven and maintained. Sounds like the PO took good care of it, but how long did he have it ? Any records for tranny services, and does it have a seperate tranny cooler ? This is a known issue of them clogging and killing the tranny. If you buy it, install one. There are plenty of threads here about it. As for how long CAN it run, see 'milage poll' thread below in this section. I understand what you are concerned about (reliability); I had the same. But then you get what you pay for. To give you a reference point, I bought a 95XE without most of the goodies you mentioned (but I didn't want them... just more to break in my book) with 108K (exhaust studs replaced, new water pump, timing belt, exhaust, front brakes, rear shocks, good 10.5x31" tires) for $5800 and put a clutch in it the first month. This is in the San Francisco area and I'd rate the vehicle a SOLID 9/10,9/10. I guess what I'm saying, is past a certain point (factoring in extras) you simply pay more for lower miles. Personally, I was following my 10 year/100K mile rule of thumb. Last word of advice is don't buy too fast, be patient. Hope this helps, and good luck. Bernard

Yep, same answer. When I got my Pathy, opening the tire carrier would almost tip the truck over :o I just went at it with some oils for a few days and thats all it needed. Bernard

LOL Soup. I have a 95XE, but manual so I cant help you there, but I have no prob with the fog lights (stock type bulbs). Maybe heat, maybe grounding, maybe voltage fluctuation ? Do you have a lot of accessories, are your alternator/battery contacts in good shape ? That sort of thing... Bernard

Hey RDemoman. Yeah, they are not too shabby, eh ? I'm setting up to make some replacement parts for them, so stay tuned. If you have anything specific needed, just holler... Bernard

LOL, tell it (he,she) that I'm sorry and it was a compliment, pat it on the hood, and feed it a slaughtered goat or something ! B

Welcome Adrian... Just copy 88Pathy's rig, and you will have your evil bush pig !! Bernard

Because it's a jeep... Welcome Fueler !! For the kind of cash you are talking, buy a 90-95 Pathfinder (frame mounted model) fully loaded, low mile garage baby. Then add a lift, shocks, rims, tires, exhaust, headers and intake. You will wind up with a luxurious, reliable trail rig and still have some $ left over !!! Thats the way I would play it anyway... Good luck !! Bernard

Hey WaarrEagle. 3/4 Qt to 4.8k... I wouldn't worry. You drove almost a 5th around the equator of the earth and used 24oz of oil. I forgive you. Same principle I used with with my mother when she complained about new brake pads at 75K. I said "Hmm, you drove around the world 3 times and the car needs brake pads ?". My dad had a 77 dodge with a 318, and it burned 1Qt every 1k like clockwork. Ran great till 180k when the kid next door bought. Don't worry unless it increases (steadily or significantly). Synthetics or dino, I'm not sure... From what I understand, I agree with 88. Leaks and blowby are more common and it makes much more sense in your gear cases (unless you drown them a lot) than in your engine. One thing to consider is that if you have some oil blow-by from the valves or rings, you have gas/exhaust blow-by in equal measure. That is what breaks down oil the fastest under 'normal' conditions. The more oil usage you have, the more often you MAY want to change the oil. I shoot for 3k-4k per change(dino), allowing for convenience and oil age. If someone ran their Syn oil 6k-8K (no thanks) they would save the cost of a filter. Oh, have we considered not changing an engine filter for 6k-8k ? Ok, talking in circles now Bernard

Don't let him fool you... Thats a Nissan Mobile SAM site, I'll bet on it Nice truck Bud !! Keep it up ! Bernard